Problem shrinking curved glass

[Guest Bangor tinting]

Hi guys, im currently using suntek carbon, im having problems heat shrinking tint on rear window, im currently using wet method, im spliting the large fingers into more little fingers, but im still getting the odd crease. Im doing the H figure on the glass and working in quarters starting from the middle of glass and working way through each quarter. Not been tinting vehicles for that long, can anyone give me some help and guidence. Ive watched tons of videos on youtube but I still seem to be missing something. Thanks in advance guys

[Rjsi 118]

When I changed to dry shrinking I got better at not having those creases. Also, I tend to melt a little ahead of the finger before pressing forward.

[Guest Bangor tinting]

I found the dry shrinking method more difficult, im currently practicing on a ford focus I dont know how difficult of a car this is? Im already doing what you suggested going ahead of the bubbles, I seen on youtube they say you should have no bubbles down either side of the window only top and bottom, I find this impossible. It is currently taking me 40 minutes to heat shrink rear window

[Mpameno81 49]

If your just beginning, that's not to bad ha. The majority of tinters dry shrink. Though it may seem harder to you at first, there's a reason the majority do it that way. It works better in the long run. It's faster (once you get the hang of it) & less chance of getting defroster peanuts.

[Blackwolftinting 359]

Defroster peanuts. Lol. I hate those things. Like previously stated, try dry shrinking. If youre just beginning it's the easier of the two methods to learn and become successful with. It's also less stress on the film and less touch up once installed. Carbon is very user friendly so just keep trying. Honestly you've picked a higher end line of film to work with. You might want to save the line and get STD or STD pro. It's cheaper and shrinks about the same.

[TINTZEUS 120]

wet is cool. You should know how to do it = will make you a better tinter. Just take your time and seperate large fingers into little fingers. You'll get it!

[Tinteks 8]

I found the dry shrinking method more difficult, im currently practicing on a ford focus I dont know how difficult of a car this is? Im already doing what you suggested going ahead of the bubbles, I seen on youtube they say you should have no bubbles down either side of the window only top and bottom, I find this impossible. It is currently taking me 40 minutes to heat shrink rear window

how close do you get when you heat it? are you moving the heat gun around? maybe your heat gun doesn't get very hot. I know some of the wagners when they start to go out they lose the hotness.

[Guest Bangor tinting]

Thanks for all the advice, what are peanuts haha? Im not used to all the jargon for tinting lol im moving the heat gun around, can somebody explain how they dry tint step by step as it will be easier to read off one of you guys then off the internet elsewhere. Best way to describe my problem is when im wer shrinking ill get the pdd square finger (if you get what I mean) and that will then turn into horizontal fingers, I will attempt dry shrinking again today.

[Guest mikerj10]

ive found the dry shrinking alot easier been using the dryer sheet method and instead of pushing the fingers with a hard card just use a folded up cloth to get most of the fingers out, dont stay on the same finger too long try heating big sections at a time

[poppawilly67 70]

I do the dry shrink method with a dryer sheet. when shrinking, I wear a jersey glove on my left and heat with my right. I use the glove hand to push down big fingers, then once they are small, I use a card wrapped in a rag. seems to work ok for me. but sometimes, I like to switch back to wet shrink just to stay up on the skill and make me appreciate the dry shrink method more.