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Question on tint over dot matrix

Guest 05RLS2

By Guest 05RLS2
in Window Tinting - General Discussion

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TTS

TTS

Posted
Posted

They asked what could be done.. I answered...

You don't deny the glue when properly applied looks blurry and slightly inconsistent ....

Like I said.... If the op is that anal they may be trading one problem for another....

The best looking matrix solution I've ever seen on a 'standard install' was a shop who masked and painted the matrix on a corvette .... I had to spend a lot of time in order to pick it apart... It was the closest to perfect job I've ever seen... I can't imagine how much time and prep went into that job.... It was impressive!

Our best solution has been to tint the glass out of the car, mask and cut masking and tint at the last dot

Matrix line... Then spray more solid black material over the matrix ( Sika makes the stuff) ... De-mask and install the glass... Perfect butt joint to the fritt... No micro line where the film steps up to the solid border... Won several top awards at national shows...

The question is always... What kind of results are you expecting and how much do you want to pay... So I would take it easy with the ' shops who don't glue are too lazy' or whatever comments.... There are levels of perfection you have only dreamed of ! Finding the balance is the key :thumb

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ultratintsouthport

ultratintsouthport

Posted
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Our best solution has been to tint the glass out of the car, mask and cut masking and tint at the last dot

Matrix line... Then spray more solid black material over the matrix ( Sika makes the stuff) ... De-mask and install the glass...

 

Wow. That's a dedicated install. Must try that sometime...    :cool

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Tintguy1980

Tintguy1980

Posted
Posted

Our best solution has been to tint the glass out of the car, mask and cut masking and tint at the last dot

Matrix line... Then spray more solid black material over the matrix ( Sika makes the stuff) ... De-mask and install the glass... Perfect butt joint to the fritt... No micro line where the film steps up to the solid border... Won several top awards at national shows...

 

I found this on Sika's site Sika® Primer-206 G+P. It is similar to 3M black urethane primer for glass.

 

Personally, I find it a bit scary to spray-on rather than using a dabber to apply streak-free. Then again I'm only great at spraying with an Impact Jr full of slip solution.  :lol

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TTS

TTS

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Posted

We have tried the dabbers... We could never get the material to flow consistently out of them.

You only get one pass to get it to lay clean because if you tried to make a second pass it made a mess... The spray product you could fan on light even coats until it was opaque and darn close to the thickness of factory applied product.

Plus the Sika product was VERY hard to scratch where our experience with the dabber was very easy to scratch with a razor blade .... Maybe we had old product ???

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Tintguy1980

Tintguy1980

Posted
Posted

We have tried the dabbers... We could never get the material to flow consistently out of them.

You only get one pass to get it to lay clean because if you tried to make a second pass it made a mess... The spray product you could fan on light even coats until it was opaque and darn close to the thickness of factory applied product.

Plus the Sika product was VERY hard to scratch where our experience with the dabber was very easy to scratch with a razor blade .... Maybe we had old product ???

:thumb2

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vteckid

vteckid

Posted
Posted

That area on too where the film adhered better that the rest looks familiar to me. I could be wrong but when ive had a finger bubble over the dor matrix, heat it up substantially with the heat gun, then press it down the finger bubble goes away but you also make the matrix more uniform where you heated the film. I think it has to do with the glue being so hot. When that happens what then do is heat up the entire top matrix with my heat gun untill it is ALMOST overheated, hit it with a squegee wraped in a paper towel and when uniform wipe the outside with a moist rag. The cool rag cools the glue and the matrix is then ready to go. Mind you this takes about 10-20 EXTRA minutes and i would say most shops dont do this is they feel they dont need to. I could be completely wrong but thats what it looks like to me.

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vteckid

vteckid

Posted
Posted

Oh and to answer you quesion.... IMHO if there is no major dust or gap or bubble issues, i would say it is acceptable, i would say ask if the can go over the dot matrix after it has dryed. Not sure if it would justify a complete strip and retint...then again i dont know how much you paid.... Ctx is $$$$$$ lol

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