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joining 4m safety film and best squeegy options

Anon o Mouse

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Anon o Mouse

Anon o Mouse

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Hi,

I have a large job coming up and the customer wants safety film.

The glass area are all doors 110 of them. The doors are single pane normal annealed glass.

The film is just for safety aspect, not weather or smash and grab proof.

Due to the width of our rolls here some of the doors sizes a lot of waste is generated, so some joins maybe done.

Given the information above i have a few questions.

1: due to the thickness of 4m safety film, would it be better to do a 1cm overlap join rather than and edge to edge?

2: do i need to anchor the films?

3: best types of squeegy to use to get the water out

Thanks in advance

Steve

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Anon o Mouse

Anon o Mouse

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What size are these doors and your film? I've never seen a safety film not wide enough to film a door.

 

Thors hammer or similar should get you through this with ease.

I can do them all without a join but i dont want to be left with almost 200m of film by 50cm or 60cm wide. I hardly ever use safety film here and it would be unfair on the customer to pay for the wastage. So i was thinking on maybe half the windows i can do a join approx 50cm from the bottom of each door, thus avoiding wastage and saving money for me and the customer.

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WearTheFoxHat

WearTheFoxHat

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You should ALWAYs charge for what is pulled off the roll.

Its up to you to find the best fit for your project from the roll sizes you have access to.

 

Is it fair to YOU to eat the cost of the waste?

 

If you have 24" glass you buy 48 or 50" film and split it  not use 36" and seam up half the project.

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Devil with bad attitude

Devil with bad attitude

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You are not taking advice from Foxy who is obviously a veteran tinter.

 

You can't have a join in a door film for starters.

Split a roll instead and you'll find that you should be able to nicely do the job with minimal waste.

 

Even if there were some, the customer always should pay for what goes up on the pane and what lies on the floor.

 

A join is time consuming whatever way you look at it and why make the job more involved then it has to be.

Devil

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Anon o Mouse

Anon o Mouse

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Hi Devil

 

thank you for the reply.

 

I am listening to what he is saying, but I thinking your not grasping what I am saying 100% (apologizes if you are)

 

The film I have is 5ft wide, most of the doors are 3ft wide which means 2ft off each width is wastage x 180m in length creates so much wastage which is doubtful I can use, So i was actually trying to help the customer by doing joins which he said he does not mind.

 

In the starbucks here they have joins on the windows and doors using 3M safety film. Can you inform/teach me why no join on doors?  is it because of movement?

 

In summary splitting a roll does not help and charging a customer 3000 us dollars for what is left seemed harsh. Just trying to help the customer.

 

Time consuming is not a problem. The job is on a tropical island so while I will help my staff to fit, most of my time will be on the beach :D

 

And again going back to my original question, does the film need to be anchored?

 

 

Thanks for any help

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TomTint

TomTint

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My advice is to get your roll slit from your supplier IE. If your windows are 38", get it slit 39/21 from a 60" etc. then charge the customer for the cut off that you can either give to them or put in your stock room. We run into this all the time with many different films, if the customer is requesting a certain material that is only available in certain widths, they pay for the waste, simple as that. Back to your op, imo , you are doing a disservice if you but or overlap film on a door as you are describing. Do it right or not at all.

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Tintguy1980

Tintguy1980

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I would be sure the client is okay with joining the film, if they are, the join should go in a spot that is the least obvious. No anchoring need for the use described. Thor's Hammer would be overkill and takes time learning to drive (steer) it. Fusion 5 or 8 with a blue or clear blade is sufficient to install 4 mil SSF. Just be sure the client understands the join will be the weak point. Do not overlap, it's ugly and is still as weak as simply butting factory edges.

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