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Avoiding Corners and Edges ?


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Bandit you make alot of mention of avoiding corners and edges. This of course in regards to using rotary buffers and the like correct?

I've heard you mention that a rookie might tape them so they don't burn them.

I suppose this is to avoid cutting the paint?

When you apply a compound, polish or wax do you apply a small amount on the buffer or car then move the buffer around to apply the product or do you apply the product evenly on the vehicle by hand then follow up with a buffer?

You probably covered this before but I wouldn't mind going over it again.

Also I know you and TTS are into layering, glazes, sealants and the whole nine yards - this is where you lose me.

So far I think I've got this much:

Clean the surface

Wet Sand (Which I'd never even attempt)

Compound (If there is any oxidation)

Polish (If there is light oxidation)

Wax to leave a lasting shine and get the water beading effect.

Am I on track here?

Where do the paint protection and sealants come into play?

Also what do you recommend for shining or polishing rubber trim?

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The reason I posted the above is because last weekend I polished and waxed my truck using Maguires products by hand and was blown away by the results.

I have an older truck and had some rust trails beneath my door mounted rear view mirrors that formed from from rainy days and lack of care. The polish made them disappear and the wax brought out some serious shine to the ole beater.

Your detailing posts inspired me to give my ride a little TLC and now I'm hooked on shine.

I want to buy a rotary buffer like a Dewalt and get some 3M buffing foam pads, wool pads and the whole works. I'd like to know what I'm doing before I screw up.

I've been really impressed by the work you put out. Most of the detailing places around here just steam the carpets-interior, spray some perfume under the seats, wash 'n wax then send them on down the road. Not before bending them over at the cash register of course. :thumb

I'll admit that I was like the customers who think there's nothing to tinting by not realizing how layered and creative you can get with detailing.

Keep up the good work. :thumb

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There are many ways to put the compound on the surface,TIP in the lowes or home depot get a pastic painters cup that has a handle on it and attach a belt.Pour some compound in it and with a 1 inch or 2 inch paint brush dip in container and brush on a small amount on a 2 ft area and put brush back in cup on your belt and buff.Doing it this way saves a lot of time and reaching for the compound or polish bottle,plus if you stay a inch from cracks you want end up with gobbs in there to get out later.Clean your paint put a glaze on for max shine,glazes are oil based so the help feed the paint ,just like when we put lotion on our skin :evileye

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also the oils help fill in the swirls and such for a while.Then you put on your paint sealant,let dwell for time called for in directions.Take off and depending on product I will add a coat of wax just to add clarity or derth to the end results.Some sealants need a day to cure or when you wax it it will take the sealant off.Rember water sanding is only to remove paint and defects quick and shouldnt be part of normal maintenance :evileye

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Rubber for a lasting effect .clean with a paint prep cleaner real ,real good,then use meguirs #40 or mothers back to black to restore vital oils the rubber need,wait an hour and wipe off xcess and tape around trim .Now spray some plastic /rubber clearcoat dye like SEMs in 2 light coats and this should last up to a year with just monthly conditioning needed.Also you can do the following and dye the rubber or plastic trim with a satin or landau black then clearcoat with a low gloss clear.Will look factory new. :evileye

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For rubber gaskets the #40 meguirs will clean and condition,This is the only product I can think of you have acess to at the auto stores,If you could get some of MALCO's plastic/leather cleaner its the b*mb for cleaning every part of the interior and xterior vinyl rubber and leather.When you get your buffer email me and Ill send you some samples of cleaner/glazes and compounds and a sealant to do your truck ,shipping will be 9 or 10 dollars you can send me a check for just the shipping if you like :evileye

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Here's a pic of my 80 trans am I used for advertising and car shows,this pic isnt great ,before I got my digital,but it was water sanded and the whole 9 yards and even with the bad pic you can still see the unbelieveable gloss and glare :evileye I had 2ft wie and 2 ft tall ramps made to pull it up on so I could detail underneath ,and get every inch of the sides perfect :lol

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Guest thetintshop

look around before you buy a buffer. there's some good ones, and there's some bad ones.

I use the makita 9227C, cost about $190-$225 depending on where you get it.

I use the snap-on PSF306 for finish sanding. make sure you buy the 3M perfectit pads and the 3M Hookit pad so it has a soft edge.

I use Presta refinishing compounds for buffing out the sand marks.

for buffing pads, I use buff and shine's products. their Center Tee system is awesome and easy to use.

as for waxes, I'm a little biased. I ONLY use ZAINO. you won't go wrong with ANY of their products. every product they offer is awesome and in my opinon, the best there is.

you better appreciate this squeeg. :evileye it took me like 25 minutes to go find all those links. :lol

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Good links TTS,that makita model would be perfect for squeege,I bought one 2 years ago with the bag that says Makita and it came with pad for 219.00 ,finally sold it to an employee for 125. 00 after a year when I got my Metabo,he still has it today and all he's done is replace cord and bushings,he also does cars for my biggest account ,so it does buff at least 2 cars a day :evileye

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