FG Film Removal

[jh812]

I did have one job, four large windows. They had turned purple so I expected the worst. They actually peeled off mostly in one piece. Afterwards glue removal was actually pretty decent.

[F1windowtinting]

It's going to suck donkey balls no matter what.. Just depends how big the donkey was.

Lol

[MikeP]

Flat glass is hit or miss on removal some easy some really not. I've only had a few instances though. Hopefully some others will chime in. That's a no on the steamer though.

I figured a steamer with the wall paper removal attachment would work. Guess I'll just bring some brake cleaner to hit the glue afterwards?

[WearTheFoxHat]

Removal only requires extra soapy slip solution appropriate towels /drop cloths. 4" stainless blades ( I prefer Unger) Eat your Wheaties.

 

Put the Brake Cleaner back in the garage Post Haste

[Tintguy1980]

 

First step: Determine adhesive type by removing small segment of film. When all film layers come off the remaining residue is either dry to the touch or sticky.

 

 

Pressure Sensitive (PS): This is the easier one of the mounting adhesives used. The key is to rip the film off first and then soak the residual PS adhesive with soapy water or Windex (or like glass cleaner) for a few seconds, spray again and begin razor scraping up the adhesive. Work a small square footage area at a time, most especially larger panels.

 

Notes: Tempered glass is risky scraping adhesive off due to glass fines (fabrication debris), which will require the use of a non-scratching scrub pad to rid the surface of remaining adhesive. This is where Windex w/ammoniaD or a product such as SuperStrip from conquerortools.com need be used. 

 

If the film delaminates during the rip up phase and leaves behind a thin layer (at times a 'clear' or lightly colored sheet of polyester), you will need to either scrape this entire layer away or sweat it for 30-45 minutes with clear plastic and your solution used for the removal process. While soaking, work another panel and so on, in a sequential process.  

 

Safety Films have a very aggressive form of PS adhesive, which requires the film material to be removed in strips rather than yanking the entire sheet away all at once. There is too great a potential for snapping the glass panel, most especially 1/8" or thinner annealed. Adhesive removal is more difficult and will require soaking the adhesive prior to and during the scrape up process. 

 

 

 

Dry chemical, water activated, non-reactivable adhesive (CDF, CDA, WA, DA, etc.): This type adhesive requires much elbow grease, there is no soaking this type glue off. Best to begin with fresh 4" blade (Unger or wallpaper scraper type). Scrape a start point in a plow type angle, grab lifted film and yank. From this start area begin to scrape 2-3" swaths (or ribbons) for approximately 8-12", stop and yank danglin film strip. This scrape and yank process allows you to get lucky with more film (in larger chunks) to come up than simply scraping without yanking. It's a quicker way to get all film material removed and requires less energy exerted during the process, IMO.

 

Notes: Only scrape parallel at frame edge, not toward the edge. Toward the edge risks the blade skipping off and jamming in frame/glass edge, leading to potential crack in glass. And, replace blade regularly and repeatedly throughout this removal process (For me, it took three blades to do an entry door size glass from start to finish, both film and adhesive).

 

Tempered glass needs fair warning to the owner of potential for scratched surface upon completion of film removal (Type 'fabrication debris' into any internet search engine for further understanding of 'why'). 

 

Once material is removed, begin scraping residual adhesive. This can be done dry or wet however, to avoid possible surface scratching, wet would be best. Dry adhesives are thinner and easy to overlook missed streaks, which will become a visible contaminate beneath newly installed film.

 

Reapplying film to dry-adhesive infested glass will require increased slip solution mix ratio or in serious cases, the use of a glass polishing product such as Z-12 from zainostore.com to restore a pristine surface to ease the install process.

[WearTheFoxHat]

DAMN SMARTIE!!

 

That post needs stickied ASAP :thumb

[BM-TINT]

That is some serious good information Smartie   

[Tintguy1980]

 Thanks for the props.

 

One reason I was hired into Tech Support back in 1997 was my 'tech' writing capabilities. A year later they hired another person who out-shined me in terms of writing skills and I faded back into their shadow. I always said my tech writing was like the preliminary drawing that the other person painted into a masterpiece. Me and him were aptly nick-named Pinky and the Brain at LLumar's tech support group back in the day. We both have since retired. 

[F1windowtinting]

First step: Determine adhesive type by removing small segment of film. When all film layers come off the remaining residue is either dry to the touch or sticky.

Pressure Sensitive (PS): This is the easier one of the mounting adhesives used. The key is to rip the film off first and then soak the residual PS adhesive with soapy water or Windex (or like glass cleaner) for a few seconds, spray again and begin razor scraping up the adhesive. Work a small square footage area at a time, most especially larger panels.

Notes: Tempered glass is risky scraping adhesive off due to glass fines (fabrication debris), which will require the use of a non-scratching scrub pad to rid the surface of remaining adhesive. This is where Windex w/ammoniaD or a product such as SuperStrip from conquerortools.com need be used.

If the film delaminates during the rip up phase and leaves behind a thin layer (at times a 'clear' or lightly colored sheet of polyester), you will need to either scrape this entire layer away or sweat it for 30-45 minutes with clear plastic and your solution used for the removal process. While soaking, work another panel and so on, in a sequential process.

Safety Films have a very aggressive form of PS adhesive, which requires the film material to be removed in strips rather than yanking the entire sheet away all at once. There is too great a potential for snapping the glass panel, most especially 1/8" or thinner annealed. Adhesive removal is more difficult and will require soaking the adhesive prior to and during the scrape up process.

Dry chemical, water activated, non-reactivable adhesive (CDF, CDA, WA, DA, etc.): This type adhesive requires much elbow grease, there is no soaking this type glue off. Best to begin with fresh 4" blade (Unger or wallpaper scraper type). Scrape a start point in a plow type angle, grab lifted film and yank. From this start area begin to scrape 2-3" swaths (or ribbons) for approximately 8-12", stop and yank danglin film strip. This scrape and yank process allows you to get lucky with more film (in larger chunks) to come up than simply scraping without yanking. It's a quicker way to get all film material removed and requires less energy exerted during the process, IMO.

Notes: Only scrape parallel at frame edge, not toward the edge. Toward the edge risks the blade skipping off and jamming in frame/glass edge, leading to potential crack in glass. And, replace blade regularly and repeatedly throughout this removal process (For me, it took three blades to do an entry door size glass from start to finish, both film and adhesive).

Tempered glass needs fair warning to the owner of potential for scratched surface upon completion of film removal (Type 'fabrication debris' into any internet search engine for further understanding of 'why').

Once material is removed, begin scraping residual adhesive. This can be done dry or wet however, to avoid possible surface scratching, wet would be best. Dry adhesives are thinner and easy to overlook missed streaks, which will become a visible contaminate beneath newly installed film.

Reapplying film to dry-adhesive infested glass will require increased slip solution mix ratio or in serious cases, the use of a glass polishing product such as Z-12 from zainostore.com to restore a pristine surface to ease the install process.

Forgot one step with CDF.

Cuss alot!

[Roach]

And repeatedly saying - I did NOT charge enough for this!  I did NOT charge enough for this!  I did NOT charge enough for this!