Tough back glasses

skittles15 · April 9, 2004

no, shrink until you know it will crease the next time you will head the finger (so you'll still have fingers left). then do a wet check, it should lengthen the fingers so it will be easier to work with.

wndotint · April 9, 2004

The basis is being able to shrink the film the maximum amount per square inch, not necessarily what method you use. The dry methods allow more movement of the excess film to unshrunk areas. Wet does not allow this as much. I've tried to identify how each method works, just for my own curiousity. With every method except lift and pull, you have to push the film around and work the excess out. With the lift and pull, you pull the excess out first, then lay it down. Dry shrinking (as opposed to wet) let's you shrink more, so when you do a wet check, there's not going to be much, if any, left to shrink. It's worth a shot, I just thought I'd chime in my thoughts.

skittles15 · April 10, 2004

hey tinterjim, how'd it go??

April 10, 2004

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April 10, 2004

interesting post, I say try it and let us know how it goes.

I would stop before the creasing by about 4 strokes of the heatgun then jump to the wet check so you have more film to play with.

April 10, 2004

This is an interesting post. It makes me think of something one of our installers at our main location says. "If the film and the glass are at the same temperature....the film will not shrink well at all." It's one reason he moves around constantly. And he's one of the best heat shrinkers I've ever seen. Wet, Dry, dryer sheets, baby powder.....whatever....

I've always considered this great advice.

Anyways dry shrink to the point where you know it will crease on the next pass then do a wet check

That would cool the glass...and might make it possible to shrink the film more.

I don't know........just throwin' around ideas... :booga

April 10, 2004

Ok I've thought of a new way to attack tough back glasses but haven't tried it yet (you know cutlass eclipse 944 etc...). Anyways dry shrink to the point where you know it will crease on the next pass then do a wet check, this should create wet fingers and allow you to "play" with the film a little more. attack it like you would a normal wet check. Like I said I haven't tried it but think it might work, I know when I feel like I have a crease coming I sometimes do that and it works fine but never did a whole back glass with this method. If anybody tries it, keep us posted
PS sorry if you wanted this in the TOTW forum TD I just wanted it to get some traffic, if you want to move it feel free

Ahhh...grasshoppa. You have not been the fuhst to think of this 'a concept. :lol

In principle it would and should work but in the world of reality and human emotion lies the conflict. The "Dry Shrinker" (as TTS and others like him) will attest - the wet shrink or wet check only confirms your lack of mastery on a dry shrink. I know this because I'm the same f'ing way. You will push the film to it's brink or breaking point so as not to have to waste a moment of time on a "wet-check".

I've burned many a pulls of film for the sake of my foolish pride when I know a coulda have finished it out "wet" but my stubborness wouldn't let me. If you figure out a way to put the pride aside then let me know. I might save several feet of film here and there.

:lol

skittles15 · April 10, 2004

Ahhh...grasshoppa. You have not been the fuhst to think of this 'a concept.
In principle it would and should work but in the world of reality and human emotion lies the conflict. The "Dry Shrinker" (as TTS and others like him) will attest - the wet shrink or wet check only confirms your lack of mastery on a dry shrink. I know this because I'm the same f'ing way. You will push the film to it's brink or breaking point so as not to have to waste a moment of time on a "wet-check".

I've burned many a pulls of film for the sake of my foolish pride when I know a coulda have finished it out "wet" but my stubborness wouldn't let me. If you figure out a way to put the pride aside then let me know. I might save several feet of film here and there.

squeegee, I can lay down a piece of film just fine with dryersheets. what I am saying here is do it to the point of near creasing then get some water under it to alow the film to finger out more causeing less stress and smaller but longer bubbles. This will give you a chance to lay the film as any other "wet check" should. (I know I shouldn't have used the term wet check so how is this finger check :lol ) this is not just a wet check it is allowing more mobility with the film. any other questions ask.

April 10, 2004

Ahhh...grasshoppa. You have not been the fuhst to think of this 'a concept.
In principle it would and should work but in the world of reality and human emotion lies the conflict. The "Dry Shrinker" (as TTS and others like him) will attest - the wet shrink or wet check only confirms your lack of mastery on a dry shrink. I know this because I'm the same f'ing way. You will push the film to it's brink or breaking point so as not to have to waste a moment of time on a "wet-check".

I've burned many a pulls of film for the sake of my foolish pride when I know a coulda have finished it out "wet" but my stubborness wouldn't let me. If you figure out a way to put the pride aside then let me know. I might save several feet of film here and there.

squeegee, I can lay down a piece of film just fine with dryersheets. what I am saying here is do it to the point of near creasing then get some water under it to alow the film to finger out more causeing less stress and smaller but longer bubbles. This will give you a chance to lay the film as any other "wet check" should. (I know I shouldn't have used the term wet check so how is this finger check ) this is not just a wet check it is allowing more mobility with the film. any other questions ask.