Double Dry shrink??

Tintcutter · April 11, 2004

Ok skit,

I'll let you prove it. Measure time on the same car from start to finish wet and dry. Not just the back glass but the overall process for the entire car, so it includes all effort for the tintjob. My point is that while some parts of dry shrink may be slight improvements, the improvements slow other parts of the overall process. You only get paid for delivering whole tintjobs, and the faster the whole car, the more money you make per hour. It must be cleaned inside and out when finished for delivery to customer. Post your notes, do it when the phones and walk ins are minimal. Variation on interruptions is part of the environment, but not the process. Eliminate interruption if possible by conducting the experiment at night or early morning, but If you do it dry in the morning repeat the wet test during the same hours, like the following day so your energy level has consistency. Explain your wet skills, as I think if you have practiced dry more you will be more comfortable with that, so you may want to improve your wet skills by warming up with a few practice windows before the test to be fair. Double melt at least the bottom 3-4 vertical inches of the rear, the same at the top if it needs it, but do not remove the film from the car. Do not pick a body style that is a once a year car, but one that is seen on a monthly basis. Good Luck, your work will be studied by a lot of people on this board so record all your details in your notes.

April 11, 2004

so, this is how I do them all now. I don't know if it helps by letting the film cool down, or what. but it works for me.

the process you described, would be basically the same, by giving the film time to cool down. just without the extra removing and repowdering.

:tts on the money.

For the difficult windows (Bug, Stratus, Eclipse, etc.) allow the film to cool by working the top for awhile then move to the bottom (or do a side window) letting the top cool down.

Remember... as long as the film has heat slamming into it from a heat gun it is warming to a temp condusive with shrinking... you pull the gun away and the film will continue to shrink slightly because its surface temp is still hot enough for shrinking to occur.

Letting it cool gives you much more control of the amount of shrink. That is exactly how I shrunk a VW Bug the very first time... staggering the area being heated to allow an area to cool, thus slowing the shrink for more control of the amount.

Time is money... shrinking is not like love making... it doesn't have to stay hot all the way through to the finish. Control is the key to success.

:booga

maybe we should start another thread with this one metint. nobody seems to be paying attention to the important issues here. :popcorn

skittles15 · April 11, 2004

man this thread took a turn for the worse

April 11, 2004

WE SHOULD KNOW LOOK FOR COLD GUN ALSO TO MAKE THINGS A LITTLER FASTER> :popcorn

April 11, 2004

:booga

maybe we should start another thread with this one metint. nobody seems to be paying attention to the important issues here. :lol6

:rollin What do me and you know? :popcorn

April 11, 2004

What do me and you know?

you know how we used to complain about those old farts who always told us how to do our job, cause we were just "dumb kids who didn't know anything"? and they thought they knew everything? :rollin :rollin

skittles15 · April 11, 2004

what I am saying in this thread is on REALLY tough back glasses that you want to do in 1 piece do a normal dryersheet shrink untill you know the film will crease on the next pass then pull the film off of the window because it is sticking to the window now and will cause creases. Then reapply another dose of dryer sheet stuff allow it to dry then reapply the film and then you can work it again, since it isn't sticking as much. This also goes for my other post about the wet check/shrink. The next time I get a tougher car I'll try it and let you know how it goes. If anybody else is daring enough or has some free time and has a tough car try it and let us know.

April 11, 2004

There's an echo in this thread... :rollin

Tintcutter · April 11, 2004

Skit, I understand your point perfectly. I would think the best way to do a hard back window is still the shortest timed method, given of course that they come out perfect, and it makes sense to claim a dryshrink allows more surface area to be melted quicker and easier, especially for persons not so familiar with melting. They don't have to understand how the glass is a heat sink or that lateral movement is induced by the shrinking film, bringing unshrunk film under the nozzle. Perhaps you might convince someone to measure them for you :rollin , but if you are as tough as I think you are this challenge won't be much but a step for a stepper. But if you can melt surface area, why not improve this board with real hard measured business fact? We all know what we charge on cars. You will bring us the difference in time so we can calculate our loss or gain as guided by your work. You may prove there is no difference also. :rollin Just remember that if its a tie, then everybody is going to be mad at you for not proving their method best. :rollin