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2017 Mustang Back glass PROBLEMS


Over the Edge

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Has anyone experienced having issues with the back glass laying down without having those "peanut shape" bubbles coming back up from the rear glass defroster lines?? I have tried it twice. I never though it was an issue till I did one yesterday and I even tried "0000 steel wool" on the defrost lines for the second application. Still bubbled back up and almost the exact same spots as well!!! Made me look like I didn't know what I was doing and I spent HOURS tryin to get the window right. Finally gave up bout 9:00 last night and I have to try to find a solution to go finish the job which is an hour away from me! Needless to say I'm not very happy about this!!! Can any relate? Any suggestions or solutions to this issue??? Plzzzzz HELP!!!! Ps- I'm currently using Suntek HP films. (Have been for years tho and never any problems except for the Challengers and Chrysler 300's... Which I used steel wool for and it solved the problem!!! I'm stumped!! ??)

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I do what you do, but if I get the peanuts I heat them up and push them out. Can be annoying because the heat can cause the adjacent line to peanut, and then on and on until you're heating the entire goddamned window. 

 

What I do to help avoid this, if it's on a car I know has issues with peanuts, is, after dry shrinking, I will wet the film, press it all down and then heat the heck out of it while passing over it with a smart card. This seems to make the film more uniform. You will notice when you peel it off it doesn't have all the shrink marks and the film will have nice smooth curvature to it rather than smiley faces, and zig zags all over the place.

 

I've also just let one mustang sit out in the sun all day, and the peanuts disappeared. Wouldn't count on this, though.

Edited by CustomGlassTinter
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What I've done lately is I will dry shrink the film but I won't use a glove or a hard card.  I dry shrink and let the film just lay naturally without stretching or pushing down.  Apply smooth even moderate heat.  It takes longer to heat shrink this way but no more peanuts.  Let me know if you would like me to post a video and the next time I do one I will record.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/7/2017 at 8:33 AM, CustomGlassTinter said:

I do what you do, but if I get the peanuts I heat them up and push them out. Can be annoying because the heat can cause the adjacent line to peanut, and then on and on until you're heating the entire goddamned window. 

 

What I do to help avoid this, if it's on a car I know has issues with peanuts, is, after dry shrinking, I will wet the film, press it all down and then heat the heck out of it while passing over it with a smart card. This seems to make the film more uniform. You will notice when you peel it off it doesn't have all the shrink marks and the film will have nice smooth curvature to it rather than smiley faces, and zig zags all over the place.

 

I've also just let one mustang sit out in the sun all day, and the peanuts disappeared. Wouldn't count on this, though.

I have to do one on Monday. Do you wet check it and heat it or do you just squirt water on the liner side and heat and card?

IMG_1700.JPG

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I use 3m 1000 grit wet sand paper on all back glasses that are known to have peanut issues.  It works great on all domestic cars and doesn't scratch but I don't recommend it on the soft glass cars like BMW etc.  It works great on the new mustangs but you still need to try to shrink it as evenly as possible. 

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52 minutes ago, hewitt_jay said:

I use 3m 1000 grit wet sand paper on all back glasses that are known to have peanut issues.  It works great on all domestic cars and doesn't scratch but I don't recommend it on the soft glass cars like BMW etc.  It works great on the new mustangs but you still need to try to shrink it as evenly as possible. 

Scared of sand paper but it's worth a shot to try next time around. I do love 0000 steal wool though!

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