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2017 Mustang back glass bubbles!!! HELP!!!


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Has anyone experienced having issues with the back glass laying down without having those "peanut shape" bubbles coming back up from the rear glass defroster lines?? I have tried it twice. I never though it was an issue till I did one yesterday and I even tried "0000 steel wool" on the defrost lines for the second application. Still bubbled back up and almost the exact same spots as well!!! Made me look like I didn't know what I was doing and I spent HOURS tryin to get the window right. Finally gave up bout 9:00 last night and I have to try to find a solution to go finish the job which is an hour away from me! Needless to say I'm not very happy about this!!! Can any relate? Any suggestions or solutions to this issue??? Plzzzzz HELP!!!! Ps- I'm currently using Suntek HP films. (Have been for years tho and never any problems except for the Challengers and Chrysler 300's... Which I used steel wool for and it solved the problem!!! I'm stumped!! ??)

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Ive had issues with peanuts in the top corners of those. I think you're on the right track with the steel wool, maybe try shrinking slower with a lower heat. When I get them on that one I just heat the glass from the outside and hammer them down with a blue 3m bump card pushing along the defroster line from the inside out.

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You want to spread the shrinking. If you shrink on 1 area for too long it will create a peanut in that area. Also, use half the solution that you usually use to install. These two things works for me. I do about 20 Chrysler 300s a month and I don't use steel wool 

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I have tried both and neither seemed to work!! Those windows aren't that bad to shrink. But they do have a lot of shrinking to them compared to what it actually looks like to looks at the window u wouldn't think that's the issue. Are either you using HP films? Same films I'm using? I know the dyed films usually esiar to "spread out the bubbles" but with this film it's limited. I tried it twice and thought there was something I was doing wrong so I told him I was done for the night and would have to come back to finish it this week sometime! But there's gotta be more to it/ an easier way to deal with these. The lines done even feel as thick as the challenger or 300's??! 

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Try this and save your sanity, Load up a bounce dryer sheet with water and spread [heavy coat] the crap over entire glass. Let cool dry 20 min. Lay film over glass with a tight H pattern. Keep fingers low to the bottom and top of film. Shrink slow using Stans Technics. I will only use ASWF Excel C/S on those rear windows you mentioned. Wet sand all your frit areas and alcohol/water clean.

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Lorenzotint... that is what I use for almost every back glass I do!!! I've been doin the "dry shrink" method for years and years now. Enough that I prolly wouldn't be able to do it wet anymore. Lol. If so it would definitely take a lot LONGER ago shrink! I had that back glass shrunk in less than 10 mins both times too! Not a single crease! And both were PERFECT!!! That's what really pissed me off! Then the bubbles happened. Twice. I was just hoping someone had experienced this as well, and it wasn't just me!! ?

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Try CXP if your a Suntek user.  those other lines are for mini vans. that why they made INFINITY for higher tier metal users. you need a film that holds its shrink. Lift up film and heat under it to relax the first dry shrink and do another dry shrink. Use the orange hard Lidco graphic hard card to level

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