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Looking for Winter Tips and Tricks


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New to the game and new to the forum.

 

Wondering if some of you guys in colder climates have any tips or tricks for reducing call-backs in the winter. Currently tinting in a storage condo with radiant floor heat, no overhead blowing contamination around which is nice. I am keeping the temperature in the unit at 60 degrees right now, should I be warmer than that?

 

Looking toward @TintWizard and @shadytints considering they are both further north than I am and look to be fairly active.

 

Any info you guys can lend would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by ErieTint
Because I can't type or spell apparently.
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In colder months, I leave the car running with the defrost on and fan on high in recirc while I cut and shrink.  slip is one ounce of ultra bond in a P2 and heat the shop to 70 as film goes on and keep car inside 15min after completion.

hot BG shrinks easier then cold ones.  cars have interior filters to remove airborne debris,  shops and cars are dustier in winter.  ultra bond dries film quicker and increases bond strength.  15min in 70 degrees you will have to scrape glue to get it off.   all cars i seal edges on roll downs and use a fushion 5ES to remove slip.  windows used to texture a little as they cured with turbo,  does not with pro handle.

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It depends on what you mean by "colder climates " if your talking near the freezing mark of 32 degrees, I don't consider that cold. If your talking " the moisture from your breath crystallizes when it leaves your body cold, then yes , I do that here in Canada [emoji1063] when it's -30 F
Feel free to pm me your number and I can give you some tips to endure endure any temperatures you'll ever come across and have no comebacks.

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10 hours ago, shadytints said:

In colder months, I leave the car running with the defrost on and fan on high in recirc while I cut and shrink.  slip is one ounce of ultra bond in a P2 and heat the shop to 70 as film goes on and keep car inside 15min after completion.

hot BG shrinks easier then cold ones.  cars have interior filters to remove airborne debris,  shops and cars are dustier in winter.  ultra bond dries film quicker and increases bond strength.  15min in 70 degrees you will have to scrape glue to get it off.   all cars i seal edges on roll downs and use a fushion 5ES to remove slip.  windows used to texture a little as they cured with turbo,  does not with pro handle.

Thanks @shadytints, I will bump my temperature up a little bit. I was thinking of doing that anyway, at least on the days that I am working. I currently still have a full time job and am just getting the ball rolling so work on tint is still mostly weekends until I get faster. There is an older furnace blower in my garage that is getting a case built around it to make a hobby style air filter to hopefully help with some of the debris. I was actually thinking of getting a small heat lamp or 110v heater setup that I could stand mount and point at the windows that I had already finished to help dry them out while I worked the unfinished ones.

 

 

1 hour ago, TintWizard said:

It depends on what you mean by "colder climates " if your talking near the freezing mark of 32 degrees, I don't consider that cold. If your talking " the moisture from your breath crystallizes when it leaves your body cold, then yes , I do that here in Canada emoji1063.png when it's -30 F
Feel free to pm me your number and I can give you some tips to endure endure any temperatures you'll ever come across and have no comebacks.

@TintWizard, By "colder climates" I mainly meant below freezing temperatures outside. I have seen mention of the horror stories of water behind the film freezing after a customers car leaves and I do not want that at all. You have a PM from me and thanks in advance for the help!

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we were comparing slips for strength.  30 min at 60 degrees none bonded.  I use a 110btu torpedo to heat my garage,  once warm have a 40k btu radiant to maintain temp.  20 inch box fan $20 bucks and 20x20 hp4 furnace filter 3pack $9 bucks filters the floaties out of the room while I cut and shrink.  shut off while I hang.  slip tends to pool into little bubbles after installation, fushion 5ES with blue or clear max applies more pressure leaving a slight haze with no puddles and quicker cure time.   ultra bond compared to J&J or other soaps/shampoo's bonds faster and stronger.   was impressed with the comparison.  have a peel board?  tint a couple spots with scrap,  vary the temp and see how long it takes to bond.  films are different.    if I tint a car in a hour, and I have a 30min drive between accounts,  a warranty redo can really cost me $200-$400 in lost time.  time is the one thing you can not get back.

 

noticed your only few hours away,  not working anymore,  want some pointers, let me know.

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15 hours ago, Tint Slayer said:

@ErieTint there's this and bigger if needed -  

https://goo.gl/fd4xAa

  

 

That's kind of what I was thinking @Tint Slayer! Thanks for the link! Is this something (or similar) that you have used personally?

 

 

13 hours ago, shadytints said:

we were comparing slips for strength.  30 min at 60 degrees none bonded.  I use a 110btu torpedo to heat my garage,  once warm have a 40k btu radiant to maintain temp.  20 inch box fan $20 bucks and 20x20 hp4 furnace filter 3pack $9 bucks filters the floaties out of the room while I cut and shrink.  shut off while I hang.  slip tends to pool into little bubbles after installation, fushion 5ES with blue or clear max applies more pressure leaving a slight haze with no puddles and quicker cure time.   ultra bond compared to J&J or other soaps/shampoo's bonds faster and stronger.   was impressed with the comparison.  have a peel board?  tint a couple spots with scrap,  vary the temp and see how long it takes to bond.  films are different.    if I tint a car in a hour, and I have a 30min drive between accounts,  a warranty redo can really cost me $200-$400 in lost time.  time is the one thing you can not get back.

 

noticed your only few hours away,  not working anymore,  want some pointers, let me know.

@shadytints My current shop space has radiant heat via hot water in the floor. It is controlled via a web login where I see the current temp and set temp. Pretty handy but obviously slow to raise temp for obvious reasons. I have an old furnace blower that a friend of mine and I are going to mod into a high volume air filter hopefully before the week is over. Is it fairly clean in the unit right now but every little bit helps. I currently use a Blue Max in an Unger Pro handle. Is the Fusion better to the point that I should switch? The Blue Max seems to work well so far. I have seen recommendations of using Pro Bond for sticking to tough back windows and around matrix dots/lines. Is this something that can be used instead of slip in cold weather? To me it seemed like that was a special use additive, not a seasonal one.

 

I am in Sandusky which is about two hours from Detroit. Are you not working any more and retired or not working any more for the season?

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how big is your shop?  torpedo heats mine in 10 min and box fan clears air in 10 min as well.   I switched from blue max to clear,  softer  lets it remove more water on BG's with thick defrost lines.  Fushion 5ES is longer for better reach, applies more pressure with less arm/wrist strain.   pro-bond is for glass prep,  prevents peanuts and helps film stick to frit.  did not help with silvering on old fushions,  did make it difficult to pull back to glue it.  Ultra-bond  is a slip with drying agent and increases bond strength.  with J&J my film peels off clean,  with ultra-bond it is harder to peel and leaves some glue on glass.  films are different,  winter I use 1oz ultra in a P2,  summer add touch of J&J.  my ceramic in summer add more J&J,  adhesive is more aggressive.  

 

Having some major disagreements with my legs,  mostly right from something in lower back.  the quacks (docs)  still trying to figure it out.  spent this year watching TV and wasting oxygen on the planet.

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20 minutes ago, shadytints said:

how big is your shop?  torpedo heats mine in 10 min and box fan clears air in 10 min as well.   I switched from blue max to clear,  softer  lets it remove more water on BG's with thick defrost lines.  Fushion 5ES is longer for better reach, applies more pressure with less arm/wrist strain.   pro-bond is for glass prep,  prevents peanuts and helps film stick to frit.  did not help with silvering on old fushions,  did make it difficult to pull back to glue it.  Ultra-bond  is a slip with drying agent and increases bond strength.  with J&J my film peels off clean,  with ultra-bond it is harder to peel and leaves some glue on glass.  films are different,  winter I use 1oz ultra in a P2,  summer add touch of J&J.  my ceramic in summer add more J&J,  adhesive is more aggressive.  

 

Having some major disagreements with my legs,  mostly right from something in lower back.  the quacks (docs)  still trying to figure it out.  spent this year watching TV and wasting oxygen on the planet.

@shadytints Shop is one of those "condo storage units" and is 20 feet wide, 45 feet deep with 16 foot ceilings. I have a man door and a 15 foot wide, 14 foot tall garage door. I was thinking of grabbing a torpedo style heater just to bump the temperature a little quicker if needed at times. The slab is 5" thick and I'm not an end unit so temps are pretty good. Just can't bump it from 60 degrees to 70 degrees quickly because of how its heated. I may look into a Fusion with a Clear Max when I place my next order. Open to ideas and suggestions being new to everything. Where do you buy the Ultra-Bond from? Right now I am using LLumar film along with Dirt-Off and Film-On for cleaning and slip.

 

Not cool on the physical issues man, not cool. My dad has had back issues for a long time. Now he is having sciatica problems most recently. Watching the struggle some days makes me not want to grow old.

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