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Proper DIY Back Window Tint Removal.


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Ok I know heat will remove the Tint and adhesives may be left behind.I went light in Nov and now want to go darker.Although Tint Shops aren't charging to much to remove tint I rather save the $100 - $175 for tint removal and put it to a quality film.I have something that should help get adhesives off the but do not what to risk messing up the defroster lines.Will non scratching scotch brite pad be good to prevent damaged to the defroster lines??What are the do's and don'ts??

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Take you a bottle of Windex add a little dish soap to it so it doesn't evaporate. Grab a trash bag and cut it open as to fit on the back glass. Climb inside spray the back glass with Windex solution. Apply trash bag to lock in moisture. Let the car run with the heat wide open and defroster on facing sun. Check it every 20 minutes and it should pull off. I do it this way all the time. Warning I'm not responsible if you phuck it up :lol

 

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Hey Mike! Removing the tint from back window can be a little bit tricky, here are some tips for when removing the tint by yourself faster and smoothy:

DO use soapy water or multi - cleaner product to wet the film

DO use heater gun or sun heat for 20 minutes to release the sticky glue

DO use a professional tint blade to help you chop or blades that are use for cleaning windows 

DO a small incision on the edge to start peeling 

 

DON'T heat until dry -> the glue will become sticky again

DON'T use normal razor blade -> it would damage de defroster 

 

*Try to spray the soapy water and, from a small edge, peel slowly and carefully so the whole piece film will come out at once*

 

Good Luck!

 

Edited by Solar Safe Films
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I’d like to add bag technology. Every time I used a steamer the automobile’s head liner fell. Bag it and if it don’t get all the tint off, good luck! I have 20 years experience and it takes me up to 4-5 hours with a torch to get the rest of the tint off (not including glue). That is saving the defroster. Do not torch a window in temps below 55 degrees. Razor blade the defroster off of it when u get tired of peeling. To get the glue off I use half sudsy ammonia, and half greese lightning. When it dries it won’t leave a funky smell like all the other products. Plus it’s a clear mixture, so no stains. Hold ya breath when spraying in the car. Ammonia is a inhaled poison. Be carful not to get any on painted leather seats!

 

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O and do not over heat glass with the torch neither. I’m not telling u not to do it, but I will tell u that it is the worst part of our jobs! Make sure u get the glass like new, because any micro spec that a amateur might not see, a pro will pick it up and charge u. I know sum shops won’t even call the customer, and when it’s time to pick up the car, they will charge u for it.

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  • 4 years later...

Shop want's $200 to remove the bubbling tint just from the back window of a 95 Buick Skylark coupe. No thanks. Even if it takes me 10 hours, that's like making $20 an hour tax free. I know it's a pain to do, but I'm kind of cheap. Did the trash bag method and all that did was get off the outer layer in a few big pieces. Not what I was hoping for, but better than it breaking apart. Now I have the tint layer and glue to deal with. Using a 1/2 inch blade to scrape between the defroster lines and a regular razor blade to lightly scrape over the defroster lines, I have 2/3 of the tint off after 3 hours before it got dark. The only problem is the tint over the dotted frit at the top. Can't seem to scrape that too good. Will see tomorrow how it goes.

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