How long do you have to cut bottom Edge to pass both seals when bottom loading?

[quality tintz]

How do you shave rite away warm the window or just squeegee the heck out of it??? You the man  stan !!!still waiting on my dvd?? James Elwood po box 5 lemitar nm 87823..know your busy...shaving dvd

Edited April 11, 2018 by quality tintz

[flat rock stan]

3 minutes ago, quality tintz said:

How do you shave rite away warm the window or just squeegee the heck out of it??? You the man  stan !!!still waiting on my dvd?? James Elwood po box 5 lemitar nm 87823..know your busy...shaving dvd

Dang, sorry mang! Life gets ahead of me....would you send me your mailing address AGAIN.

@quality tintz 

Cheers

[flat rock stan]

I squeegee and shave, no waiting generally but it is easier if you have time....but dang man I'm to old to wait

Sometimes I will hang top on one door and then move to the next door and hang top then go back and shave then finish up.

[Tint Slayer]

I wish i got more response about that bottom edge, kinda wondering about it. I was looking at the tint on a car in a parking lot and i can see the bottom edge of the film from outside, it's like it was at zero with the rubber. Is that acceptable?

[highplains]

3 hours ago, Tint Slayer said:

I wish i got more response about that bottom edge, kinda wondering about it. I was looking at the tint on a car in a parking lot and i can see the bottom edge of the film from outside, it's like it was at zero with the rubber. Is that acceptable?

Not in my eyes. When I'm hand cutting I drop probably close to a half inch down over the belt moulding to ensure there's enough depth to pass the inner seal. It also gives you some extra in case you fuck up your top cut.

[jh812]

I've done it both ways. Like up right on top, I don't care for that because more likely to have a light gap. Plus if you mess up cutting the top you don't have the option of recutting. I cover the molding when hand cutting.

[shadytints]

The question I want to ask is why do we have to go below the sweeps at all?  sirrus sticker, xm and factory stickers never peel.  30 years tinting, glass replacement and installing door locks and power windows.  dirt, grease and maybe rust proofing is just under the sweep,  slim chance to sticking there.  years ago i tinted a car where the sweep was 3/8 higher then outside trim.  I noticed finger all along the bottom on the outside and could not see them on the inside.  the sweep held them down.   I switched to shrinking the top of the window instead of the bottom and found I had to occasionally heat small finger out of the top now.  only tint to the sweep for cosmetic purpose only and never have any peeling problems.  every film is different,  some stick to the top right away and others can be a pain in the a**.   something to check when deciding to switch films,  had a nightmare of problems with one brand,  redos take to much time and cost to much money

[quality tintz]

13 hours ago, shadytints said:

The question I want to ask is why do we have to go below the sweeps at all?  sirrus sticker, xm and factory stickers never peel.  30 years tinting, glass replacement and installing door locks and power windows.  dirt, grease and maybe rust proofing is just under the sweep,  slim chance to sticking there.  years ago i tinted a car where the sweep was 3/8 higher then outside trim.  I noticed finger all along the bottom on the outside and could not see them on the inside.  the sweep held them down.   I switched to shrinking the top of the window instead of the bottom and found I had to occasionally heat small finger out of the top now.  only tint to the sweep for cosmetic purpose only and never have any peeling problems.  every film is different,  some stick to the top right away and others can be a pain in the a**.   something to check when deciding to switch films,  had a nightmare of problems with one brand,  redos take to much time and cost to much money

Have you used solar fx? whats that brand in videos you were using do they have a nice 15 percent???

[Tint Slayer]

20 hours ago, shadytints said:

The question I want to ask is why do we have to go below the sweeps at all?  sirrus sticker, xm and factory stickers never peel.  30 years tinting, glass replacement and installing door locks and power windows.  dirt, grease and maybe rust proofing is just under the sweep,  slim chance to sticking there.  years ago i tinted a car where the sweep was 3/8 higher then outside trim.  I noticed finger all along the bottom on the outside and could not see them on the inside.  the sweep held them down.   I switched to shrinking the top of the window instead of the bottom and found I had to occasionally heat small finger out of the top now.  only tint to the sweep for cosmetic purpose only and never have any peeling problems.  every film is different,  some stick to the top right away and others can be a pain in the a**.   something to check when deciding to switch films,  had a nightmare of problems with one brand,  redos take to much time and cost to much money

Why did you switch to shrinking the top instead of bottom?

[shadytints]

10 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Have you used solar fx? whats that brand in videos you were using do they have a nice 15 percent???

Have not tried solar FX as far as I know.  the film in my vids has been changed and no longer available.  Been laid up well over a year now,  not sure what I would use if I could tint again.

3 hours ago, Tint Slayer said:

Why did you switch to shrinking the top instead of bottom?

I switched to top snapping instead of bottom shrinking because I could see singers below the gasket on ones where the inner gasket was higher then the outer (15 malibu, bmw, 300, lincon town)   by snapping the top and sealing with a heat gun or torch leaves the bottom edge virgin and have to stretch it a bit preventing any fingers or peeling.   think of it like the backwards curve windows,  regal, old camaro and t-bird,  you stretch it to get it on and no chance of fingering.   vids on my channel if you want to see.