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How long do you have to cut bottom Edge to pass both seals when bottom loading?


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4 hours ago, shadytints said:

Have not tried solar FX as far as I know.  the film in my vids has been changed and no longer available.  Been laid up well over a year now,  not sure what I would use if I could tint again.

I switched to top snapping instead of bottom shrinking because I could see singers below the gasket on ones where the inner gasket was higher then the outer (15 malibu, bmw, 300, lincon town)   by snapping the top and sealing with a heat gun or torch leaves the bottom edge virgin and have to stretch it a bit preventing any fingers or peeling.   think of it like the backwards curve windows,  regal, old camaro and t-bird,  you stretch it to get it on and no chance of fingering.   vids on my channel if you want to see.

 

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I always gauge my bottom to land 1/8-1/4" below the inside rub rail. Compare outside sweep to primary inside and set (bottom) film edge accordingly before trimming sides and top. Have always taught that. 

 

Have always avoided installing below the secondary sweep since; 1) it is softer than the primary and 2) don't want me or another tinter to have hassles removing film and residual adhesive in the future.

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I haven’t worried about getting under the seals ( for the purpose of preventing peeling ) in over a decade. If you are using a quality film, it is not going to peel just by the window going up and down.  At the same time, a gap seen from the outside is unacceptable.  

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13 hours ago, Super Dave said:

I haven’t worried about getting under the seals ( for the purpose of preventing peeling ) in over a decade. If you are using a quality film, it is not going to peel just by the window going up and down.  At the same time, a gap seen from the outside is unacceptable.  

I just saw one where there's no light gap but you can still see the bottom edge on the inside. It's just below the outside rubber but above the inside rubber (inside rubber is about 1/4" lower than outside, film is above inside rubber, below outside rubber), is that considered acceptable to top loaders? Like is it ok as long as there's no light gap no matter where it lands on the inside?

@shadytints @smartie2shoes @flat rock stan 

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4 hours ago, Tint Slayer said:

I just saw one where there's no light gap but you can still see the bottom edge on the inside. It's just below the outside rubber but above the inside rubber (inside rubber is about 1/4" lower than outside, film is above inside rubber, below outside rubber), is that considered acceptable to top loaders? Like is it ok as long as there's no light gap no matter where it lands on the inside?

@shadytints @smartie2shoes @flat rock stan 

Yes that  is fine light gap is hidden good film wont peel i do that on f150 fords alot!

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On 4/27/2018 at 11:40 AM, Tint Slayer said:

I just saw one where there's no light gap but you can still see the bottom edge on the inside. It's just below the outside rubber but above the inside rubber (inside rubber is about 1/4" lower than outside, film is above inside rubber, below outside rubber), is that considered acceptable to top loaders? Like is it ok as long as there's no light gap no matter where it lands on the inside?

@shadytints @smartie2shoes @flat rock stan 

I’m sure there are a lot of different opinions on that one, but I would say if the install is clean, with no light gaps, it is good. I’m sure if it was a good install, the company that did it, would have no problem warranting the film if it did ever peel. I think it comes down to the vehicle more than ( a top loader vs. bottom loader) I do both ways, and some vehicles just aren’t necessary to go under the seal, so I don’t on those.

i do my Ford trucks the same @quality tintz

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if the sweep is lower on the inside then the outside,  I just tint to the inside sweep for cosmetic purposes.  newer f-series,  I drop it as far as a 22 inch roll will let me.  If the inside sweep is higher then the outer,  I drop the film  enough to hide the edge from being seen from the outside.

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i hand cut and bottom load 90% of the time.  when setting up to cut patterns on roll-ups, i set the factory edge of film to bottom of the rubber.  i then set my film where it wont shift.  next i sharpie the sides with a silver sharpie (because im old and blind lol).  next hold bottom of film out some and bump down window to desired likings and cut the top with olfa.  next i move pattern to peel board for final cuts.  next i go back to the rollup and check the sides with a corner card to see how much inset it has.  next back to peel board where i cut the sides to desired likings.  i never have light gaps on bottom or sides.  as for the top edge, i micro gap unless it is a frameless window.  not saying my way is the right way, but it works great for me and im sticking with it.  hope it helps.

 

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10 hours ago, poppawilly67 said:

i hand cut and bottom load 90% of the time.  when setting up to cut patterns on roll-ups, i set the factory edge of film to bottom of the rubber.  i then set my film where it wont shift.  next i sharpie the sides with a silver sharpie (because im old and blind lol).  next hold bottom of film out some and bump down window to desired likings and cut the top with olfa.  next i move pattern to peel board for final cuts.  next i go back to the rollup and check the sides with a corner card to see how much inset it has.  next back to peel board where i cut the sides to desired likings.  i never have light gaps on bottom or sides.  as for the top edge, i micro gap unless it is a frameless window.  not saying my way is the right way, but it works great for me and im sticking with it.  hope it helps.

 

No need to put 12 inches lower than seal if you don't need it...

Edited by quality tintz
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