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Lack of tack on new cars


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Hey folks, I'm a ppf installer that mostly installs on repainted panels. Therefore I am used to a great deal of tackiness when applying film (which I like). Recently I've installed on a couple of brand new cars for a local detail shop and I noticed a massive reduction in the films ability to wrap and stick properly. I don't notice any issue's regarding tackiness with headlights and pre owned cars with a few thousand miles on them. I am using next to no baby soap when installing on new cars (approximately half a drop, the solution has almost no lubricity what so ever) and yet when it comes to heating and wrapping my edges I am finding that it takes me at least 3 times longer to properly heat and tuck than it would if I were installing on a repainted panel. Even when I get everything fully tacked I am not confident enough to use a 2000 psi pressure washer on the film (even though I know my customer will). Please point out any variables I can change to make these jobs wrap easily and give me more confidence in the long term durability of the install. Right now I am...

- Using johnson and johnson baby soap (not dawn, but maybe dawn would work better?)

- Using llumars 5 year film (maybe llumar platinum 10yr would work better?)

- Clay barring and IPA wiping panels prior to install

- Using next to no soap in soap solution

- Using 200ml 99% IPA to 900ml water tack solution

- Heat gun set at 950 degrees Fahrenheit

- I am currently not compounding or polishing the cars prior to installation but I could if it would increase tack

- Waiting about 30 minutes for areas to dry prior to wrapping or heating edges

Thanks so much for your input guys, I really appreciate it!

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12 hours ago, Aden said:

Hey folks, I'm a ppf installer that mostly installs on repainted panels. Therefore I am used to a great deal of tackiness when applying film (which I like). Recently I've installed on a couple of brand new cars for a local detail shop and I noticed a massive reduction in the films ability to wrap and stick properly. I don't notice any issue's regarding tackiness with headlights and pre owned cars with a few thousand miles on them. I am using next to no baby soap when installing on new cars (approximately half a drop, the solution has almost no lubricity what so ever) and yet when it comes to heating and wrapping my edges I am finding that it takes me at least 3 times longer to properly heat and tuck than it would if I were installing on a repainted panel. Even when I get everything fully tacked I am not confident enough to use a 2000 psi pressure washer on the film (even though I know my customer will). Please point out any variables I can change to make these jobs wrap easily and give me more confidence in the long term durability of the install. Right now I am...

- Using johnson and johnson baby soap (not dawn, but maybe dawn would work better?)

- Using llumars 5 year film (maybe llumar platinum 10yr would work better?)

- Clay barring and IPA wiping panels prior to install

- Using next to no soap in soap solution

- Using 200ml 99% IPA to 900ml water tack solution

- Heat gun set at 950 degrees Fahrenheit

- I am currently not compounding or polishing the cars prior to installation but I could if it would increase tack

- Waiting about 30 minutes for areas to dry prior to wrapping or heating edges

Thanks so much for your input guys, I really appreciate it!

Have you thought about a lot of new car dealerships preload a lot of add-on crap to bump up an addendum; paint sealants is one of them. If the detailers wipe them down with sealants that have silicate(silicone) base and when it is applied it takes a few days to cure......then it can be an issue.

Ran into that a few years doing partials for a Honda and bmw dealer. Drove me nut then found out they were putting perma-plate sealants on their new cars.

Pull out the wheel and charge them accordingly to compound that panel or clean all the edges with paint prep solvent and not worry about the centers, that part will eventually dry.

Hope this may help... Cheers

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They wax the living crap out of new cars to hide all the imperfections.

 

I use 3M Adhesive remover to strip it before i apply any film to any car. (have to becareful using it on repainted cars.) All edges get Adhesive Remover on it be it painted or not. It guarantees it will grab. Most repainted panels i see, are ALWAYS missing clearcoat on the inside. (this is from high end body shops who paint Lambo's / Ferrari's / Porsche's).

 

My Slip solution is usually 2 good sized drop of J&J Baby Shampoo.

My Tack is 4 caps of 99% with 800ml water.

 

I only use filtered water.

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i was taught no matter if the car is new or has a few miles on them. before you install ppf you should always do a paint correction on the areas the ppf will be applied to. after a paint correction i usually use swirl removal compound   to give the area a better bond for the ppf to tack.  try it and let me know how it goes. 

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Film hides swirl marks so paint correction isn't needed, save that for the removal.  I've only had maybe 2 cars out of the last 18 years I couldn't get the film to stick to, and I prefer them to be waxed.  Its much easier to squeegee over a waxed surface and I like to use a lot of baby shamoo, especially on dark colors.    Try easing up on the alcohol in your tack solution, maybe only 10% of 70% iso.    More alcohol doesn't mean more stick.   100% water is better at tacking than a 50/50 mix, you'll burn the adhesive.

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Have any of them been ceramic coated? It's becoming more of a thing and film won't bond

 

Out of every soap I've used so far for slip... Dawn and Fusion All Type have been my personal favourites. Some guys don't like Dawn because it tends to bond quicker I guess. Every time I play with baby wash or baby shampoo I just get irritated.

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