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new to tinting, how to work on difficult vehicles?


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On 6/18/2018 at 9:18 AM, Tint Slayer said:

I agree about multiple knifes, but in my case i use a knife with a carbon blade just for top edge of glass and only out 2 segments of blade extended (nothing wrong with more if you like), another knife with a stainless steel blade for cuts using the point and a third knife with SS blade that i use extended about 6+ segments for scraping the glass inside the gaskets.

Totally get the 1 Sst knife and 1 carbon, I did the same before I had the plotter. But why the 2 sst knives? Is it just to conserve blades? Or something else?

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2 hours ago, Super Dave said:

Totally get the 1 Sst knife and 1 carbon, I did the same before I had the plotter. But why the 2 sst knives? Is it just to conserve blades? Or something else?

No maybe one for top edges and one for rear glass only ???? Or the extra stainless only for cleaning so it wont scratch anything!!!!!

Edited by quality tintz
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On 6/16/2018 at 9:36 AM, drtint said:

There is a wealth of info on this topic in many different threads as well as YouTube. You will need to navigate these particulars. If I have to step by step explain and answer your particular questions, there will be a service charge:yawn

Why would you take off a rear window? You have the training down? Did they train you to take off the rear window? How did that go? I am curious because I have never done that. Been doing this a while and would love to learn a new technique. Thank you

 

 

 

are you guys familiar with 2006 accord sedan rear pass door small windows?  I had issues today...I didnt know how to tuck into such tight sprace, so othter tinters suggested to cut as far as I can to that window and tuck a bit. The thing is, I also cant reach up into the very narrow part of that rear tiny door window. My contour card wont do it so I have bubbles. Also what is the cause of small white pinholes in the tint after being applied? is that a case of not cleaning all the dust off? 

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On 6/20/2018 at 5:57 PM, CaliTINT said:

You really just have to get your feet wet. As a (learning) tinter, you are going to come across lots of vehicles that take a different approach to it. You need to be resourceful, think outside the box, analyze and execute certain techniques. Also with cars you aren't sure of, just simply look it up on this forum and/or on youtube. Usually someone has discussed it or made a video on it. 

 

Hell I was working on a car today that I have done plenty of (but not enough of them lately). I kinda forgot my procedure on it and ended up redoing the back window 3 times before getting it right. In the end, I just analyzed the glass, etc. and came up with a solution. Also checked up on the forums for tips and its done. 

 

without my trainer beside me i lose focus and panic and forget my steps he taught me. Rear windows are way easier. For roll up windows, I only need to pull film down for tuck and to the side when cutting only if the window shfits right? if its just a window that goes down and up and doesnt shift then just leave enough slack at the bottom only  for tuck correct?

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On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 2:04 AM, bpbv6-6 said:

 

 

are you guys familiar with 2006 accord sedan rear pass door small windows?  I had issues today...I didnt know how to tuck into such tight sprace, so othter tinters suggested to cut as far as I can to that window and tuck a bit. The thing is, I also cant reach up into the very narrow part of that rear tiny door window. My contour card wont do it so I have bubbles. Also what is the cause of small white pinholes in the tint after being applied? is that a case of not cleaning all the dust off? 

I just looked this vehicle up. On ones like these I loosen up the seals using older installation tools before hand. Just shove them all around the seal to loosen them up. Also to prevent those white pinholes which are probably specks of dirt you need to really clean up in the seals. Personally, if it is really dirty I will spray foam glass cleaner in the seal and using an old tool and thin microfiber rag and jam it up there. I may follow up with a blue paper towel (one that doesn't tear) and jam it all the way around for a last cleaning pass. Then squeegee a few times. When installing on these types of windows I don't spray my solution up into the seals because this will cause any residual dirt to drip down. I might do a light spray on the window and then spray lots of solution on the tint while I'm holding it in my hand. Hope that all makes sense. 

 

Also as far as being able to reach into that tight of a corner, you are going to have to get more tools to deal with all situations. The contour is a great tool but doesn't fit every where. I would probably use the EZ reach (Gold, Platinum, etc.) or a bondo card cut into a similar shape as the EZ reach. 

Edited by CaliTINT
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On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 2:08 AM, bpbv6-6 said:

 

without my trainer beside me i lose focus and panic and forget my steps he taught me. Rear windows are way easier. For roll up windows, I only need to pull film down for tuck and to the side when cutting only if the window shfits right? if its just a window that goes down and up and doesnt shift then just leave enough slack at the bottom only  for tuck correct?

With experience and confidence you will panic less. Trust me I was only trained for a few weeks and on my own ever since. Everything else I learned was through experience, forums, videos, etc. 

 

I assume you are doing everything on the car. I finish my patterns on my peel board. But I pretty much leave extra on every car. If it shifts, I will leave way more slack. 

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