Jump to content

PPF installed, not happy

ReaperHWK
 Share

Recommended Posts

ReaperHWK

ReaperHWK

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all new to the forum.  I tried searching my issue and found this site so I decided to register and post my concern/issue and maybe someone here has some advice for me.

 

I have a 2022 Challenger Jailbreak I took right from the dealer 3 miles down the road to get PPF installed.  This place was recommended and overall, I am very happy with the results.  He used XPEL and did the whole front end, lower rockers, and some other small areas.   He says he uses the XPEL library and doesn't cut any film on the car.

 

I am only not happy with the way the stripes turned out, this car has matte vinyl racing stripes.  He decided to cover the whole hood with the regular gloss PPF, then just over the stripes he installed the XPEL stealth PPF.  The color match for the stripes turned out great, can't tell the difference between the hood and the roof which is naked.

 

However, there is a noticeable air gap between the stripes and the paint, due to the PPF not being able to make that transition since the OEM stripes are pretty thick.  I mentioned to him already I'm not thrilled about it and I said I'll wait a few months to see if I can live with it.  Well, 2 months went by and it does bother me.

 

What do you guys suggest is the best way to make this look better?

 

 

68210341738--8949FB49-FBED-4A60-8F73-7A20F842FB9A.jpg

IMG-4053.jpg

IMG-4054.jpg

 

Edited by ReaperHWK
Link to comment
Share on other sites
highplains

highplains

Posted
Posted

It could be trimmed by hand to the edge of the stripe but there is risk involved in that. Beyond that I don't think you have a lot of options, unfortunately those factory stripes are inconsistent in their placement so getting that precut piece to line up with them 100% perfectly 100% of the time isn't always possible. Your options as I see it are to live with it; have it trimmed by hand; or have the film and stripes removed, the film reapplied and then new stripes applied over the film. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mobiledynamics

mobiledynamics

Posted
Posted (edited)

The precuts are just that. The software allows you to + - the pattern but it's really up to the installer to take the extra mile and fudge with it...a shop I know is one their 36th *revision* of their pattern tweaking for the Z06.

 

U don't want seams on a install - preferably- especially the hood since it's the main focal point.

If I was choosing it, I would do the full gloss film on the hood and then vinyl match ontop of the ppf where the factory stripes are - new vinyl strips would be 1/16+ wider than the stock strip so you know you are fully covering it

 

. The vinyl is like 5 times thinner than stealth PPF, so it would blend in better than the thicker stealth clear ontop, as well as it would mask it so it looks -seamless- due color coverage..

Edited by mobiledynamics
Link to comment
Share on other sites
mobiledynamics

mobiledynamics

Posted
Posted

Off topic or on - In the realm of some owners want thing's all OEM

 

If PPF applied in this fashion (ontop of paint + factory stripe). 

If, when the PPF is removed....not that I think about it, there is a good chance the factory stripe may -lift- with the PPF right ?

 

Just due the adhesion of paint is different than a sticker ontop of it. Then you add the adhesive of the PPF, then trying to keep the factory stripe may be MOOT ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PRatx

PRatx

Posted
Posted

when u apply ppf on top of decals , stripe etc , u will always have that air gap pocket , now after install if you run your finger on that line before you wrap the edge / so the air has a release /  you may have chance to reduce that air space , but you will still have some airgap because is not level / the decal is higher then the paint level..... make sense? :)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ReaperHWK

ReaperHWK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks all.  I’ll have to mull this over.  Looks like the options that would work for me is to leave it be or remove it all and do the PPF with stripes on top.    That would look definitely the best.  Drawback to having the stripes on top of PPF is that if I resell it may be a turnoff to some buyers I think since it’s not “original”.   I don’t want any cutting on my paint it’s not worth the risk to me.  This car is not cheap and it may be a valuable one in the future.  All hellcats are done after 2023 and dodge is going all electric.  These cars will go down as the highest hp gas cars produced.  This one is 807hp.  
 

 

I’ll talk to the guy next week again (I have to go to his shop for him to replace the fender PPF it took a hit but the paint is fine, just needed pdr ).  
 

the PPF got hit with a power washer nozzle that flew off the gun.  Put a hole clean through the PPF and dented the panel.   Paint is not damaged though. PPF saved the day.  
 

B67262A7-9A15-41F6-BACD-A4658413ABF3.jpeg

B719A5B5-3F0B-4F22-9D1E-E7DA2B5A7EEC.jpeg

Edited by ReaperHWK
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ReaperHWK

ReaperHWK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 9/14/2022 at 9:41 AM, mobiledynamics said:

Off topic or on - In the realm of some owners want thing's all OEM

 

If PPF applied in this fashion (ontop of paint + factory stripe). 

If, when the PPF is removed....not that I think about it, there is a good chance the factory stripe may -lift- with the PPF right ?

 

Just due the adhesion of paint is different than a sticker ontop of it. Then you add the adhesive of the PPF, then trying to keep the factory stripe may be MOOT ?

I also thought about this.  I was told he can get it off and leave the stripes using heat and being careful. Always a risk you are right.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mobiledynamics

mobiledynamics

Posted
Posted

If you care about -OE- down the road, then the details do matter....only if you are a stickler for what was stock and whether it is -there-, if/when you choose to remove the PPF. The glue is pretty strong. While adhesion of paint is different on metal, the adhesion of the factory sticker -might- lift some when pulling pff. Especially since you are doing to apply heat- to the area to aid in removing the PPF (aka, glue), that same heat also is also going to be -heating- the factory vinyl.

 

May be a moot point if you don't care about the OE sticker though...as that can always be redone ..easy from a vinyl perspective

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ReaperHWK

ReaperHWK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, mobiledynamics said:

If you care about -OE- down the road, then the details do matter....only if you are a stickler for what was stock and whether it is -there-, if/when you choose to remove the PPF. The glue is pretty strong. While adhesion of paint is different on metal, the adhesion of the factory sticker -might- lift some when pulling pff. Especially since you are doing to apply heat- to the area to aid in removing the PPF (aka, glue), that same heat also is also going to be -heating- the factory vinyl.

 

May be a moot point if you don't care about the OE sticker though...as that can always be redone ..easy from a vinyl perspective


All valid points.  I did remove some of the PPF from my fender and the adhesive is strong for sure.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mobiledynamics

mobiledynamics

Posted
Posted (edited)

Steam/Heat material well - and while you're removing is best. It's a new install so it should be fully -cured-.

Also, once you get a lift point on the film. don't remove by pulling the film -away- from you. Pull it -towards- you to lift and remove. Adhesive comes off better with film in this technique/direction.

 

The less glue = the less glue removal. That = less/minimizing mechanical contact/mechanical abrasion. Still probably will need a mild polish after a chem glue wipedown regardless.

 

So now you have PDR . How much is it going to cost you to redo the whole fender. Just curious

Edited by mobiledynamics
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
  •   Sponsored by
    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

    ride wrap

    Conco

    Lexen

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

  • Activity Stream

    1. 7

      Air80 vs Stratos70 Windshield

      Since there is no limit of darkness on the top strip, I have wanted to tint it. But I would go very dark, to help with sun glare in the evening.
      mikenot in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    2. 7

      Air80 vs Stratos70 Windshield

      Yeah that’s a very fair point to a degree I’m probably overthinking it. I don’t see really significant glare reduction until you get into much darker tint. Like you I think visibility for me is more important living in the country. I’ll probably see what the specs list the differences between 70% and 80% and then double check with the tinter as to what they recommend. Likely will end up with 70% with a strip along the top. Air80 seems to be much more popular, not sure if it’s due to performance or the difference in cost being so much more for the stratos. thank you
      joshiemcduck in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    3. 0

      Process

      Hey guys - so I work for a vinyl graphics company that is adding window tinting to their repertoire and I had a question about your guys' ideal process. I have my plotter set up and my window tinting software ready to go, but I am completely ignorant about the way that tint installers prefer that things be cut. Currently, I will plot/weed the tint and cut the backing away as much as I dare before handing it over to the installer. I was thinking that the installer would prefer the tint to be cut to shape which I believe I can achieve with the perf cut on my plotter. Is that the typical process or should I not be worried so much about it being cut to exact shape?
      DonMeads in Plotters and Cutting Systems
    4. 7

      Air80 vs Stratos70 Windshield

      Im in TX, plenty of of what you mentioned. While I do sit higher in an SUV, glare reduction is not improved much at all with what I have. My 80% is almost clear, not dark at all. With all tint, it adds a bit of reflectivity from the outside, which I notice makes it slightly harder to see from the outside looking in, in the form of a glare not darkness. At the end of the day, it's not permanent, it's only money!
      mikenot in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    5. 0

      PPF installer for hire in SoCAL

      Hello. My name is Adrian i have good experience with paint protection film and i just moved to California, Irvine, i'm open to travel one hour away for the right job. You can contact me at 5717330693
      adrianpaun in Classifieds • Employment • Marketplace
    6. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      or "bust out another thousand"
      TintDude in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    7. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      Best tip would be, “Sorry, no boats”.
      pbalentine in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    8. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      The answer is to not heat that area too much so that you leave some slack in the film for when you get it to the inside. Also cut your pattern a little large so that you can trim a thread off the edges after shrinking to not have a furled edge. After you do a few of those you'll figure out how much to leave/trim to not have any light gaps. Also I'll leave a hardcard wrapped in a microfiber in the bottom overnight to collect water and keep pressure on the film while it dries. Sometimes you can take the top rail off the glass if the jackwagon boat builder didn't put too much pressure on the glass package when it was installed. If you pull the rail off of a tight package it's a pita to get back on, looking like it could crack the whole time. Congrats on getting it done. I've seen plenty that couldn't, which is why I price them like I do.
      Dano in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    9. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      Thx everyone for the tips the install went fine, however i did run into a new problem on the main curve of the glass from thr outside the tint would lay flat on the big curve but when applying it seemed like there was too much tension and it would not stay down i ended up heating it up and flattening down but some of that area got overheated and warped a little, if you know how to tackle this problem please help me thank you!
      Lauty in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    10. 6

      Removable rigid window tint sheets - WTF?

      civicrice in Window Tinting - General Discussion
×
×
  • Create New...