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Hi everyone. I am about to do a full front wrap on a Tesla Model Y, and I will be removing the emblem on the hood and replacing it with a new emblem after the PPF is installed. The customer doesn't want the emblem cut out and much rather prefers the clean look of the full hood coverage.

 

That being said, I am using Avery Dennison's Supreme Defense Gloss Paint Protection Film. This film has an incredibly slick/hydrophobic top coat which in turn makes things impossible to adhere to it because it. I can only assume that over time that top coat will start to deteriorate and adhesion to it won't be an issue. However, directly after installation and coming straight out of the package, that top coat is very much present and has low surface tension. And although the hydrophobicity is an incredible feature, the low surface tension can be an issue if a client wants vinyl installed after the clear bra installation, or like in my case, if you need to remove an emblem and must replace it.

 

So, does anyone know of a solution that may help increase the surface tension of this clear bra without damaging it? I've heard that either hand or light machine polishing might work, so I might give that a try. I've also heard of a spray that micro etches things like ceramic coatings, or in this case, the top coat of this clear bra. In this specific case I'm talking about Make More Money LLC's "Grab" spray which I've attached as a picture.

 

I've worked with Xpel for 2 years at my previous employer and recently started my own mobile clear bra business in Denver, CO and am now using Avery. I never had to research anything like this with Xpel because their top coat on their Ultimate+ film isn't as hydrophobic, but I'm open to suggestions.

 

Let me know your thoughts and if you've ran into anything like this, how did you solve this "issue"?

 

Thanks

-Ricardo

s462700787571938600_p31_i1_w3024.jpeg

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I would use a 90% iso wipe and stick the emblem. A fine machine polish and iso wipe would also be ok. The glue on the emblems is pretty aggressive, I wouldn't worry about it lifting. I use 90%iso on a rag for my edge prep as well. It can and will burn/etch the surface, you've been warned.

 

As a precaution I'll usually wipe any fresh ppf with a pure carnuba wax a few hours after install. Sometimes the film is pretty dry on the surface. I do it as a preventive measure in case it gets splatted with tar or a big bugs, I want it to be easy to clean for the customer and hopefully not stain the material.

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6 hours ago, Dano said:

I would use a 90% iso wipe and stick the emblem. A fine machine polish and iso wipe would also be ok. The glue on the emblems is pretty aggressive, I wouldn't worry about it lifting. I use 90%iso on a rag for my edge prep as well. It can and will burn/etch the surface, you've been warned.

 

As a precaution I'll usually wipe any fresh ppf with a pure carnuba wax a few hours after install. Sometimes the film is pretty dry on the surface. I do it as a preventive measure in case it gets splatted with tar or a big bugs, I want it to be easy to clean for the customer and hopefully not stain the material.

Oh yes, I recall my PPF trainer telling us that alcohol etches PPF. Thanks for that! Do you use a mix of 90% alcohol and water or do you use only 90% alcohol?

 

Also, what do you mean by your second paragraph? Why do you coat the PPF with wax? It just seems like extra work and redundant since it's gonna go away in a week. What is your thought process and experience with that?

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90% on a rag to wipe the edges before installing. My normal mix for just pulling grease off an open area is 50%. 

 

I wax the ppf to moisturize the material, and to make it easy to clean later. I don't want any chemicals splashing up off the road trying to stain a dry film, especially if it's hot outside.

 

I want my customers satisfied so I put in the best practices I know to make sure the job looks good on delivery and after they get home.

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