TintWizard

I’ll go out on a limb and say it was more likely a shotty job from the get go and your now just noticing a bad line up job of the tinter. If the other side even remotely resembles a similar gap. You’ve got your answer as it’s highly unlikely both windows started to shift at the exact time

I’ll go out on a limb and say it was more likely a shotty job from the get go and your now just noticing a bad line up job of the tinter. If the other side even remotely resembles a similar gap. You’ve got your answer as it’s highly unlikely both windows started to shift at the exact time

I’ll go out on a limb and say it was more likely a shotty job from the get go and your now just noticing a bad line up job of the tinter. If the other side even remotely resembles a similar gap. You’ve got your answer as it’s highly unlikely both windows started to shift at the exact time

I’ll go out on a limb and say it was more likely a shotty job from the get go and your now just noticing a bad line up job of the tinter. If the other side even remotely resembles a similar gap. You’ve got your answer as it’s highly unlikely both windows started to shift at the exact time

Florescent lights can also make it noticeable 

Many different ways for different styles of tinting. My preferred way is to pop the top row of plugs and one screw where the handle is. Unfortunately they replaced one of the plugs with a one-way plug but that’s OK, you won’t break it and you can still get the seal in an out without popping that plug. It’s the same plug that’s in a cx5 . Really dumb design unfortunately

The bottom sweeps pull out and reinstall without issue , bottom load and it’s easy . I personally pop 3 of the 4 top panel plugs to make it a bit easier but unfortunately, the plug on the most outer edge is the same as the cx5 which will most likely break if you try to pop it so leave it in tact.

Many different ways for different styles of tinting. My preferred way is to pop the top row of plugs and one screw where the handle is. Unfortunately they replaced one of the plugs with a one-way plug but that’s OK, you won’t break it and you can still get the seal in an out without popping that plug. It’s the same plug that’s in a cx5 . Really dumb design unfortunately

The bottom sweeps pull out and reinstall without issue , bottom load and it’s easy . I personally pop 3 of the 4 top panel plugs to make it a bit easier but unfortunately, the plug on the most outer edge is the same as the cx5 which will most likely break if you try to pop it so leave it in tact.

It’s Actually one of the things I like about being a Llumar dealer. I’ve been one of the longest running Llumar carriers in Canada and they are decent enough to only sell to me in my area and give me exclusivity based on volume and track record of no comebacks. From what I can tell, if they don’t see any benefit from putting a dealer against a dealer in the same area, they’re happy with whomever represents them in the area

They should pay for it for having such a stupid design

Cannot complain. I’ve had an employee for the first time in 30 some odd years and it’s worked out well. I actually got to take some summer holidays and not have so much pressure now [emoji4]

Too funny , i’m checking in on my old tip from 2012 when I can’t remember something

Too funny , i’m checking in on my old tip from 2012 when I can’t remember something

Too funny , i’m checking in on my old tip from 2012 when I can’t remember something

I built a small waiting room in my shop was a window that I can choose to keep open or closed so the customer can watch but they’re out of my way. It’s not realistic to send a customer away when they’re just getting a set of doors done compared to doing a whole vehicle

I built a small waiting room in my shop was a window that I can choose to keep open or closed so the customer can watch but they’re out of my way. It’s not realistic to send a customer away when they’re just getting a set of doors done compared to doing a whole vehicle

It was many years ago I made this and thought it was worth mentioning again to those tinters looking for a clean portable solution for tinting glass out of frame :

I also have a specially designed portable bench that works awesome for such cases.
Step 1: Suction cup with customized metal holder. I also welded some nuts to the back of the suction cup so the cup wouldn’t spin when I insert it into the metal holder I made :
 
2: Place bar in folding Fat Max bench:
 
3: finished portable product . Able to tint any auto window . Will hold without worry and solution runs down and away without “pooling” and no dust collecting.
Best thing I ever came up with 20 yrs ago for tinting glass out of frame

It was many years ago I made this and thought it was worth mentioning again to those tinters looking for a clean portable solution for tinting glass out of frame :

I also have a specially designed portable bench that works awesome for such cases.
Step 1: Suction cup with customized metal holder. I also welded some nuts to the back of the suction cup so the cup wouldn’t spin when I insert it into the metal holder I made :
 
2: Place bar in folding Fat Max bench:
 
3: finished portable product . Able to tint any auto window . Will hold without worry and solution runs down and away without “pooling” and no dust collecting.
Best thing I ever came up with 20 yrs ago for tinting glass out of frame

easy to tint,  just hard to tint clean  LOL
the old seats and headliner I always mist,  dust storm as you crawl inside.  the old crusty rubber BG gasket will never be clean,  why I cut again on inside to make sure it is a perfect fit.   now lets talk about GRAVITY.  If you squeegee water up,  it must come back down and will bring trash.  why I avoid the sides and top 1 inch and take water down.  hard card with something absorbent to soak up water on top and sides.  I have wedged the bottom out on some for water drainage,  if by chance a finger pops up on bottom, it will suck up trash.  extra soap, min mist to hang.  the front vents I wedge the inside rubber to remove the decade and rusty residue.  the vent rubber is U shaped and the glass is pounded into the metal frame.  gives room to hide light gaps.  light mist again and try to take slip out the exposed edge.  wrap a ez or tri-edge to get edges and avoid debris from getting sucked back in.

And really, keep things in perspective.
 
If you pay $250 to have your car tinted, and it lasts 5 years... that's only $4.17 per month you paid. Then let's say you need to strip and retint it... so $350 for the next 5 years. That's $5.85 a month.
 
Many people pay that much, per month, for their cable tv/internet and cell phone bills... each and every month.
 
For the comfort, security, and aesthetics window film provides, it really is a good deal.
 
 

Figured it out. You pull out a piece on the one side , then depress the inside with a screwdriver

I will offer both Suntek and Llumar in automotive with little cost difference between the 2 choices . I just charge the difference of cost on my end and all customers go for it when I tell them how long I’ve been offering Llumar for ( decades) . My other installer use to use Suntek and can’t believe the difference of how much more Suntek used to scratch compared to Llumar.
It’s a better choice in the long run between the 2 (in my opinion )just knowing the history and what I’ve personally seen and experienced between the 2 brands as a professional full time installer
 
 

Thanks TW.

Figured it out. You pull out a piece on the one side , then depress the inside with a screwdriver