alltracpete

Correct Norm. You may see every Model 3 or Y with the ends lifting because the mold of the spoiler is not accurate. I honestly havent seen one Model Y with a factory spoiler that hasnt had the ends lifting. The only solution is to add an extra layer of tape on the last 8" or so. Also might show the spoiler wont fall off even if its not completely held on.

I think a small spoiler like a "Lip" if you are referring to, would be ok attaching with double sided tape. Tesla OEM spoilers are all held on with it, and none fall off. I would say every "lip" style spoiler is held on by tape. If you are worried, just put some adhesive promotor on the film before you attach it. No way it will come off the film after that. I guess a picture of said spoiler would solve this question more accurately.

maximart

Id like to know what the rate is as well. 5 hours for 16" HFM seems pretty good. And 5 hours for a bumper.

Is this a new version or a test version?

I could use some help in NC lol

I pretty sure some OEM port installers have been using vinegar for years. Anyone that has been doing installs for Toyota at port?

Yeah Im open to any brand

We get it. You don’t believe in PPF. Thats great. So dont comment on PPF if you dont have 20 years of experience selling and installing it. No ones going to comment on Flat Glass films if they arent in that segment. I just dont see how, in any way, it is productive to keep down talking a product that is 1. Popular for new car owners that value the look of their car 2. Is a good product to sell for a shop that want to make a profit. Now I remember why I got off this forum. 🤦 yall have fun

Its actually fairly comical that someone would make that argument and blatantly tell a consumer that. 😂. And on an industry based forum. Im still confused as to why.

Anyone here have a good match for the rear windows on the XC90? Ive only got Suntek Carbon, CXP CIR and Xpel XR Plus in stock and Im looking for a better color match. Thanks.

So lets ditch the term ROI, because it obviously doesn't apply to ANY automotive add-on. I would learn more towards "Is it worth it for the customer who is buying the product?" And that, no matter how much experience you have, you can not quantify. If you could you would not be arguing ROIs and how people modify their cars. Im pretty sure everyone here is in business because they sell and install things that people want to buy. Not sure how saying PPF is worthless makes any sense. But I understand your thought process.

Sounds correct. So why are there lots of Auto Accessory stores, tint shops, ppf shops, graphics shops all in business and making a profit because customers want all that stuff? Thats not for ROI, its for customer satisfaction. Just like PPF. Its for customers to keep their car clean and damage free for the time they own it. Not necessarily for when they trade it in or sell it. Although when selling it, the new customer will be more pleased with the fact the front end is almost completely chip and scratch free. I have never told a customer its for a ROI. The Customer reaches out and asks for a PPF installation because they want it so they can keep their car looking new. Has nothing to do with ROI. Just like you said.

Referring to ROI for PPF, how would you calculate any ROI for any automotive product? Window Tint, Graphics, Wraps, Wheels, Aero-kits etc? Does anyone have a way to determine that or is that something that is based on each owner experience? Just wondering since the general automotive aftermarket all seem to fall into the same category. Anyone?

Its commonly used substitute for alcohol. I would dilute it until it does tack fast anymore. With alcohol becoming scarce, the vinegar will be a lot easier to get and use. good luck everyone!

So had one that we did last year come in because the back window had a "split". He said it happened the first time he used the defroster. What actually happened - the defroster between 2 main lines (the connector line) seemed to short out, melted the tint in that section between the 2 lines. And left cracks in the glass on the inside layer. Customer took it to Tesla Service and they said "the defroster is in spec" and made no notice of the fast the glass is cracked and film melted. Tesla Service "window tint is due to improper installation on rear glass" lol. Looks like Im buying a rear window. Has anyone had a similar issue?

I wouldn't cut 60" rolls on the 54" plotter a lot. Like you said, the 6" will cost you over time. Ive been using a 54" plotter for years. Bulking hoods is the way to go if you have a 54". I only recently got a plotter that can cut 60" rolls. And I still rarely cut a full hood pattern. It helps when doing full cars and need to nest sides on a 60" roll and being able to cut that. Also the sides of most cars are 48" or less so once again, the 54" plotter works. So cut all your ppf up to 48" on that plotter. If there are hoods that have vents or emblems on them, just line the pattern up to cut all the stuff out on the end that doesn't waste. Then let the top edge run off the cut, and just trim the top of the hood by hand. Blades are the same for CE and FC series. I would have bought that plotter if I had heard of a deal like that! Winner!

Welcome to the full wrap Supra club! Definitely one of the most complicated cars. Ive done 4 of them so far and it doesn't seem to get any easier lol. Good Work and keep it moving!

So I have car that came from Dubai. Its wrapped in what I thought was ppf. Its glossy but hard. Pulling it off and it looks like pure overlaminate. But the entire car is done and the install is actually really clean lol. Has anyone even seen this on cars overseas, China, UAE, India? Or is it old film thats breaking down? Theres no stretch to it when cool. And even weirder, one panel was painted over and it looked good smh.

So how many of you guys avoid dealerships because they take too long to pay? Weve been doing a few over the years and sometimes backfired and have to chase the $. What are you guys experiencing these days?