flat rock stan

Leo is still around building armored luxury cars in Riga! He is also running his vodka museum ✊

Leo is still around building armored luxury cars in Riga! He is also running his vodka museum ✊

Leo is still around building armored luxury cars in Riga! He is also running his vodka museum ✊

Leo is still around building armored luxury cars in Riga! He is also running his vodka museum ✊

Hey.  how are we all doing. Im one of the original members back to say hello

I remember when Leo from Dartz was a regular on here.  I think he was from Latvia. Welcome!!
 

Man, that is the truth. Also how much the world has changed since.

Get an 18" channel squeegee from home depot to hang near it. Makes sweeping it clean before you use it each time fast and easy.

Wanted to say hello to everyone since it’s been awhile since I visited the best place on the internet for tinting!
Hope everyone is having a great start to the season and doing well! Life has been crazy complicated for me lately but that comes with age! 
cheers
stan 

The pictures show some pretty big gaps. I use a plotter program called Computer Cut and the model 3 patterns don’t leave gaps but all cut programs are different. Ask your tinter to hand cut the doors and be careful with the back window as removing the film can cause the defrost lines to come off. Since this is the job you got ask if they will cover the rest of the rear window with a second piece. Won’t look as good as the whole thing in one piece but least you won’t run the risk of losing the defroster. I’ve seen lots of those windows tinted up to the top where Tesla has the factory shade but that job doesn’t go that far. If you leave it like it is it will probably not make a difference in the glass breaking but those windows break easy without any film on um ✊

The pictures show some pretty big gaps. I use a plotter program called Computer Cut and the model 3 patterns don’t leave gaps but all cut programs are different. Ask your tinter to hand cut the doors and be careful with the back window as removing the film can cause the defrost lines to come off. Since this is the job you got ask if they will cover the rest of the rear window with a second piece. Won’t look as good as the whole thing in one piece but least you won’t run the risk of losing the defroster. I’ve seen lots of those windows tinted up to the top where Tesla has the factory shade but that job doesn’t go that far. If you leave it like it is it will probably not make a difference in the glass breaking but those windows break easy without any film on um ✊

The pictures show some pretty big gaps. I use a plotter program called Computer Cut and the model 3 patterns don’t leave gaps but all cut programs are different. Ask your tinter to hand cut the doors and be careful with the back window as removing the film can cause the defrost lines to come off. Since this is the job you got ask if they will cover the rest of the rear window with a second piece. Won’t look as good as the whole thing in one piece but least you won’t run the risk of losing the defroster. I’ve seen lots of those windows tinted up to the top where Tesla has the factory shade but that job doesn’t go that far. If you leave it like it is it will probably not make a difference in the glass breaking but those windows break easy without any film on um ✊

The pics look like this is a Tesla so the rear glass would have to be a 60" piece to be able to do that in one piece. 
 
If I am correct and it is a Tesla @TrojanGoose I would have them remove the rear glass and not re-tint it unless they can do the whole thing in one piece.  Tesla's have a reputation for "thermal fracture" due to the longe curved design of that rear glass.  Tinting only half the glass could possibly cause it to crack.  

Here’s a video demonstrating this process. 
 
 

You might already be using this method and if so, why the heck haven't you told us about it?  
If not,  this method might just be your new favorite thing.  I discovered this method doing a removal on an SUV hatch and didn't want to get glue all over me from it being over my head.  I tried this method and will be using it on ALL removals from now on.  
 
By now we are all using some type of adhesive remover that works really well turning the glue to goo; but it's rather messy. 
Usually we pull the old piece off in one piece leaving the glue.  Spray the glue with remover and then put the removed piece of film back on the glass reversed and let it soak.  At this point, after it has softened the glue, I would pull the piece of film down and scrape the glue with a hard card and let the goo stuff fall on the film or a drop cloth.  Rather nasty but effective way to do it, BUT try this.  
 
Pull your old film and flip it over and soak your glue in remover. After the glue has softened but BEFORE you pull your liner film down - spray your liner with soapy water and then take a hard card or squeegee of your choosing( I use the 6" black & white) and start at the sides and pull as much glue as you can to the center of the glass; while leaving the liner on the glass. 
You will see the glue moving under the film. Your squeegee will stay clean because it's not touching glue.  Do this on both sides pulling the glue to the center and up from the bottom hat rack area.  The glue will stay on the liner when you pull it down and now all you have to do is a little clean up with some steel wool and a scrub pad.  This method is way less messy that pulling the liner down and scraping. 
 
I wish I had found this method years ago because it gets 90% of the glue off without getting you or your tools sticky. 

There was a model back before 1996 that had seat sensory that would cause the headrest to rise. Fun, fun, fun to work around.
 
Not much help, but just another story to be told.

Wanted to say hello to everyone since it’s been awhile since I visited the best place on the internet for tinting!
Hope everyone is having a great start to the season and doing well! Life has been crazy complicated for me lately but that comes with age! 
cheers
stan 

I simply use global and don't worry about warranty.  In 16 years I've yet to see a film failure with global. I had one from right before in some llumar though... 

Hey great to hear from you! We still send people your way.  

Those are giant water and air pockets. Take it back and have them redo.

Wanted to say hello to everyone since it’s been awhile since I visited the best place on the internet for tinting!
Hope everyone is having a great start to the season and doing well! Life has been crazy complicated for me lately but that comes with age! 
cheers
stan 

Can anyone help me find a link to the Riker shrink?

Can anyone help me find a link to the Riker shrink?

Howard, you will never cease to amaze me! The other day I found out about all the different colored film you sell and not only that but you sell them in cut down roll sizes........ Now I find you can send my film in a box with.... say autowindowtinting.com on them!!! THEN on top of that, you tinted the ambulance in the GhostBusters movie!
I wish I could intern with your company for awhile to make myself better and more efficient in the film business. Can't wait to see you at SEMA.
I have questions on having my own label but will save um for Vegas.
Cheers from all of us at Alexia's

Ryker hit the mail on the head. Garware like all manufactures make different quality or lines of film. Global is their top Tyre product with QDP being the top of the top line they make. Stick with QDP, in the long run the extra cost is made up with customers who will be happy from now on. Your doing great as is!