mates

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About mates

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Age
    30
  • Experience
    7
  • Location
    Sydney Aus
  • Country
    Australia

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  1. If you could package up your clients and send them up to me that would be great thanks Rob
  2. The shop could redo it and get another piece of lint in it, you could maybe say look tint it as many times as you need to get it 100% perfect and he can spend a whole week on it, but if thats the expectation then tint jobs will cost 3 grand not 3 greenbacks Some specs are acceptable the only way for a true perfect install is to remove all glass , have a decontamination room then a vacuum chamber again you'd be paying thousands for that job as it would cost a lot of money to set up the shop and labour of all glass removal and cleaning time (as far as im aware this does not exist anywhere in the world for window film application) If you do choose to go back don't feel insulted if the shop owner offers a refund and removes all film, i did it to someone once and know that their new tint job from the other shop was much worse than mine that was near perfect but they would not accept 4-5 specs of dust over 7 windows total My work is good, some of the best in my area but its rarely 100% perfect
  3. i just realised this is an old thread hahaha *facepalm*
  4. Why is Crystalline so expensive? * the material itself costs 4-5 x the cost of CXP * installation, allow 2-3 x your normal install time when using it * average tinters won't use it, if you screw up a window its a costly mistake there's tonnes of films out there but realistically you wont get much more than 55% TSER from any auto film, the darker than legal films which have around 60% also absorb more heat so when not driving at decent speed it will radiate heat onto the passengers. $330 is a fair price from a reputable tint shop for CXP or similar film (without knowing vehicle type that also plays a part in pricing) I use a lot of Ultragard fusion ceramic, i put it on my front 2 doors and it is noticeably cooler than a hybrid metal film i had on there before. are you north west or south west? may be able to recommend a shop
  5. it would be the same scratch coat as their other films, johnson are pretty good for not scratching, suntek do scratch easier unless they have changed recently i wouldn't use either base films, they don't last
  6. i recently had a bad pack, scratched glass even with fresh snaps (snapped blade 5 times on 1 window) i bought some general purpose oil / machine oil few drops on the blades then put them back in the pack, haven't scratched any glass since and its not the way i was holding my knife before any smart a$$'s chime in
  7. mates

    2016 XE sedan

    Hey guys, i have a 2016 XE sedan booked in tomorrow, normally i pop or pull panels. Is there anything i need to be careful with? also will a hybrid metalised film be alright on rear window for antenna? my films are normally good for am and fm radio on other cars. anyone got links to pics of vids of door trim removal ? i will take photos as i go of anything i need to pull apart and i will update this thread but id love to see what im up against before i go poking around expensive trims Post Update- I popped the tops of trims back and masked up the felt for the doors, back window does not give a whole lot of space inside the car as window is on a big slope so i suggest using more slip! Use a bone tool to pry plastic trim around door handle off, be careful around bottom middle clip it is tight just needs some wriggling as you pry Undo torx head screw (forget what size) pry back side of trim on back door and front of trim on front door to start popping the top this doesn't need a lot of force thankfully but the back edge of the front door trims be careful as they have something holding them in more than just a clip, don't force it you can get the seal out with it popped back 3/4 of an inch finished car Johnson Marathon 35% remember to use a lot of slip with back window and clean the glass real well you don't want to do it twice.