tint45

All our other techs use the cornies, but they're too heavy for my busted up wrists and elbows, so I still use the super-legacy 3 gal teardrop shaped tank (we call it Old Yella'). Found a new pump for it years ago, but those nozzles (PN GT094) are long gone. It's a shame – the big handle style triggers accidentally spray like mad. 

PM incoming.

On 10/21/2019 at 10:37 AM, Roach said:

Any issues with V41?? 

 

Using that this week on a resi job.... just curious if it's gonna go smoothly or not. lol

 

 

 

How did it go?

1 hour ago, Roach said:

We didn't seal the edges... Not exactly sure what qualifies as being near a 'coast'. We were in NYC so like 2 miles from the river on either side.
 

According to Llumar Technical Bulletin:

Quote

Edge sealant required if within 10 km [6.2 miles] of ocean

On 10/6/2019 at 1:56 PM, Roach said:

Is this film prone to curl?? 

 

Was super pissed seeing window after window curling. Waiting around like 90 min and did what we could... hopefully it didn't all curl off the windows after we left.

 

 

Just curious if it's just one of those films that has this issue. Which pisses me off - like... dude.. get your crap straight. Window film isn't new. There are reasons films curl.... and while I will agree, for residential, it's still kindof niche... like... it just pissed me off when this crap happens, in 2019. Like really???? 

What tends to piss me off is that the films that curl once the sun swings around tend to be the ones where X-100 isn't approved, so the next official recommendation is "use less slip". Durrr.. What might work better is if the manufacturer would more adequately address what is undoubtedly a known issue so companies that install their products don't end up looking like idiots on the job. 

I'm curious though: you say there are reasons films curl. What are they?

V51 is part of the Vista Harmony series, a sort of hybrid ceramic/metalaized product. I'm not sure I've ever installed it personally.

Tom is correct about the edge seal requirement for corrosion reasons. Unfortunately, any film that this is recommended for, X-100 is prohibited for use for the exact same reason (corrosion). 

On 8/4/2019 at 10:22 PM, Roach said:

First, there is no perfect solution that will give you everything you want. 

 

Interior application of tint will last a whole lot longer then any external films, so if at all possible, I would strongly recommend going that route. For 6 skylights, not seeing them or knowing how big they are or how high off the ground they are, I'd be at least at $850. I wouldn't even consider the $400 price.. that's stupid low, and if you went with that I'd be surprised if the film lasted a year. 

 

Anyway... IMO Prestige 50 or 70 is too light.. Yes, they aren't super reflective, but that will also reduce the amount of heat that's reduced. ie. less bang for your buck. 

 

V38 wouldn't be too bad... I don't recall the heat reduction of that film off hand, but generally speaking, a film of that vlt would do a fairly ok job. 

 

 

 

I agree you have to pick and choose what you want, function vs form, etc. I also agree that exterior products will obviously break down more quickly. The $400 for llumar exterior application could however be a case of a company trying to move out some dead stock, and if it is in fact NHE35, I would consider it if cutting heat were the most important thing. 

Trying to find something like what these folks below are using. I like these frames and gaskets as they provide some of the challenges in proper trimming and corner work needed. Are these units custom made, or would a glass/window manufacturer have something fairly readily available? Thanks all!

16 minutes ago, Tint Eastwood said:

Yes

 

Way back when I worked for another company I cut every job onsite out of the box. Would use olfa blade for 1-4 mil and scraper blades for anything above 4 mil. If it still wanted to walk the blade I'd double or triple up the blade so it was a little stiffer. Eventually I started using the aluminum channel on the box edge for better chop cut and helped hold the blade a little better.

 

Been using the film handler for close to 10 years now, only cut out of the box when I absolutely have to.   

That's funny, I was just shopping U-channels for box cutting online! 

We've got a couple of film handlers, but find ourselves in plenty of situations where box cutting ends up being the more (seemingly) practical method. Lol I've done some pretty goofy things to keep an olfa from bending during pulls over the years, but never put much thought into other blades (aside from the larger olfas). Thanks!

On 12/31/2018 at 11:22 AM, gimpy said:

What is wrong with cutting out of the box?

I use a standard Olfa blade for 2 mil and a 4" scraper blade for 6 mil+. Width plus 1".

I rarely attempt to cut the width perfectly as truly square window frames are uncommon.

Also widths can vary from window to window by 1/4 to 1/8.

Once you know how to cut corners properly, edge cutting is easy.

This is interesting. Could you give a bit more detail on that? Do you just punch it through the box like you would an ofla?

Someone on this forum had mentioned corrugated plastic sheets at some point. Wanting something lightweight and transportable, I went off of that idea and created what is below. I scored the sheet on the front and used gorilla tape on the back to make hinges so it is foldable, and use velcro to attach it to a ladder. 

Sorry, it wasn't that I didn't believe you. I don't know anything about solar fx, so maybe I'm missing something too, but this seems pretty cut and dry to me -- they won't warranty (some films?) against fading. I would assume that they receive an agreement to this in selling their product, however tacit that agreement might be..

Your phone volume covered that part up

We are tying a proposed Illinois tint law with heavy fines for dealers who disregard that law. This type thing is more than likely coming to a state near you due to the massive abuse in the past everywhere.. A pretty good reason to stay legal no?

Another reason: The cops mighgt mistake you for Michael Vick.

No Dumb azzz newbs even though we tend to @ ya a little bit, think "OLD" cars 50's 60's 70's & 80's that had no matrix/blackout boarder, just a rubber gasket to hold the glass in = "rubber set"

thanks tintman.

the torx on the accord is hidden behind/under the rubber seal on the top of the door. just lift it off and youll see it, also on the newer accords its now a phillips screw. if you pull panels its easy to remove the qtr window on the accords, also roped back in means a rubber set window like on the back of a pick up truck. to put it back in you "rope" it.

I've pulled all kinds of seals off of that frame and I can't find a screw?.?? Also I'm a dumb azz newb and have no idea what "rubber set window means". Thanks for the the info tho

First of all, what is this "roped back in" reference I've been seeing here? Second, I had ANOTHER '03 Accord today and still couldn't find that torx screw on the 1/4 that another thread has discussed. Where the hell IS that thing? I'm tired of leaving that rubber reveal showing. No custys have complained but if there's a better way then I want to know it! thanks

Good idea TD! From srictly a consumer's perspective(I'm sure they have little cognizance of the installer or his family's well being when selecting tint shade), the first two things that come to mind are the same reasons that I don't speed.

1:That I don't have time for a ticket , and

2:I can't afford a ticket.

Saftey and security are of course serious issues but I'd wager that many people think they are way too skilled a driver to let a "little bit" darker window affect their driving.