callwild

Not only has the plastic been damaged and the creases left, it looks as if the tint does not go to the edge of the glass and there is a gap where it should be in the window channel !! It should not have left the shop in this condition !

The most important point to pick up from this video is that all the slack & wrinkles are pushed from the centre towards the top and bottom by forming fingers and shrinking them, NOT the sides. Start with a H lock down with the middle laying flat accross to the sides and kep this flat. Do not push anyything to the sides. (Although is some more advanced techniques side fingers may be shrunk, but that comes with more experience.)

I have seen scratches like this from tinting. If when shrinking the roll downs the tint is moved around the window to shrink in sections the tint is moved down the glass to shrink the top edge. then as shrinking the hard card runs above the tint and up the glass a short way. I have had this happen on some glass. Not as bad as this and one would hoepfully notice it staright away and stop. Certain types of card are worse at this. Not saying it is that and I agree with outhers that once the tint is on scratches that were there before are more easily seen, But it is possibility when scrathes like this appear at the top of each window.

Well finally made it to retirement. Tinting has given me a good business for the last 15 years but now have all my equipment clogging up my home so anyone wanting to take it off my hands is welcome. Loads of tools , cards, squeegees, door card popper tools etc but the main large items wanting to see go to a good home are DGI 60" Plotter 60" Filmhandler with Step Ladder stand. Based in Cumbria (UK) for collection. make me an offer or see ebay

Well finally made it to retirement. Tinting has given me a good business for the last 15 years but now have all my equipment clogging up my home so anyone wanting to take it off my hands is welcome. Loads of tools , cards, squeegees, door card popper tools etc but the main large items wanting to see go to a good home are DGI 60" Plotter 60" Filmhandler with Step Ladder stand. Based in Cumbria for collection. make me an offer or see ebay

The tintschoolonline videos are an American based company. However the Tint School UK https://tintschool.co.uk/about-us.asp is run by a very experienced and knowledgeable trainer Tim Haywood. He also offers packages to start a franchise with his Ultimate Tinting group which may seem attractive. It will give a good start into the industry and help with initial enquires and work but in the long run its worth considering if you really want to be tied to a franchise. It may take a little longer to get going but once you have built up your own client base and reputation you would probably find to go it alone is better. I set up in a unit by myself and got work straight away kept me going as a good business for 15 years and only stopped last year due to retirement. Good luck Stuart PS I am just retiring and have a load of useful equipment such as plotter and film cutter available if interested

Due to recent retirement I have a large selection of Tinting Tools and Cutting Equipment for sale. 60" DGI OM-150 Plotter: Original cost of £7,000 this great plotter has worked without a hitch on both Computer Cut for tint and Flexi-sign Pro for vinyl. Included are Operator's Manual, 5M Serial Cable, USB cable adaptor, 2 x blade holders, 5 x assorted Blades for Vinyl, window film, Insignia Fabric and Security Films. 3 x Roll Holders with Core Locks and Allen key. Purchaser must arrange collection. £2,000 60" Film handler with Step ladder support £500 Merlin Glass Testing Kit £200 Contact me here on DM or via info@reflecta.co.uk

No it probably wont dry out , as Tintdude has already said. However work with a chizler and some heat could well make it less noticeable. If the rest of the screen is perfect and it is not in eyeline then maybe best to let it go. I'd work on it with heat but do a redo runs the risk of some other small piece of contamination getting in somewhere else.

Tinting Etiquette Ignore what Clear Solutions has said above obviously not a professional himself !!! From what you describe the install is a hack and not acceptable. However we can not be sure of the state of the imperfections without a photo to confirm. What ever is fair is between the installer and yourself depending on how bad and what needs to be redone, its hard to comment again without seeing but it does not sound very good.

The obvious thing missing for me is you don't mention what Dual Reflective is !! All the attributes you list are the same for standard window films. Need to say they are less reflective on the inside !!

Awful. did they do it outside in a sandstorm ? !! I wouldn't want them to tint my car, tint off and money back or go to trading standards.

I've moved towards using the Thor's Hammer on all security film now after finding it gets more water out with first pass and can give more pressure. https://44tools.com/thors-hammer/

I have had in the past very similar problems with security film when using Green Slime or shampoo. I then tried "Film Handler Slip Ease" which seems to solve the problem and gives a much cleaner finish, so possibly try that. Ryker's comment about not dragging moisture over bits already squeegeed is also good advice. Security film has lots of differences to car films and is a frustrating skill to get to grips with, but like other tinting skills its practise and trying different methods , different, solutions, different cleaning regimes, different squeegee hardness etc. One large shop window we did kept getting white streaks what ever we did. It had involved removal of old film first and even though the window had been scraped with blades, and scrubbed with white scrubby pads we kept getting streaks. Even had a Film Manufacturer consultant with 25+ years of installation experience come and look at the window and do an install himself. Same result. Eventually we scrubbed every inch of the glass with isopropanol and wire wool for several hours until we could see water and slip solution run down the glass evenly without clearing in patches and used the slip ease. That got it done. So it was a massive learning curve for us and the consultant.

It's Pictures of these bubbles you mention that we need to see. It pretty much doesn't matter what squeegee you use there shouldn't be any bubbles (as such) visible. Depending on your cleaning process, slip solution amd squeegee used your bubbles could be a variety of problems , but most likely are pockets around contamination.

Is there any sort of matt coating that can be installed to reduce reflections on shop windows ? I thought I'd heard of one once but can not find any info now.