pbalentine

Never seen that with QDP. Is from when you hard card to shrink?? Been using it for factory matching and dont like the match at all. Classic matches better and going back to that.

I usually dont get peanuts much with newer mustangs. I cant wait to do a Charger or 300. I’ll move to 2000 grit. I was thinking that if you sand only in horizontal passes the hard card with sand paper glides across the thick lines, barely touching the glass. Keeping the glass wet will help prevent scratching. Id say shrink technique and film have nothing to do with peanuts. It just the fact that a defroster line is raised and uneven and thats it. Steel wool will only be used to finish off lines that never give issues, like with a Toyota.

Did a 19’ Mustang and did this with 1500. It was 5% and you couldnt even see the lines! Im not sketching on using it on new vehicles anymore. I couldnt drag my nail over the lines, but after sanding could hardly feel the line. I had a 18 Hell Cat Charger last week and was scared to use sandpaper. Spent like 20 minutes pressing peanuts down! Im sanding all that need it now new or old. Thanks to JH!!

Been thinking of ideas to start up something new. I’ve loved tinting over 10 years, but just getting over it. I could keep doing, but Id rather make easier money and not have to deal with customers BS.

Oh man, just did 11’ Maxima and got like 6 peanuts. I knew this model could get peanuts, but skipped sanding and paid for it. I just steel wooled the hell out of it and shrunk nice and slow all over. This is proof that steel wool isnt a enough. When they’re real thick, sand paper is what it takes. Nice tip by JH, wrapping the sand paper in a hard card.

1500 and 2000 is what I use. Leaning more toward just using 2000 mostly. Used 1500 on an old Lexus last week and it was fine. What do guys think about those flexible blocks that come with the paper on them??

For one, they need to redesign that back window. The quality is cheap with these. I got an older S model that the lining was peeling off around the door pull. I almost broke one of the the handler covers recently. That shiat is so cheap I would refuse to replace it!! Id say your car is cheap, go to Tesla and buy it yourself. I dont know what worse, tesla or the d-bags they like’em. This company will fold, just watch.

This is one way people tint fast...they dont press out any tiny specs! I press out anything along top edge before rolling glass up. Then I check the entire glass. Then when job is finished I check again. If they let it go like that they either dont care or thats just the quality of their work. I would have them remove it and just go somewhere else.

You wont see some or all if the line at first because water is floating there. As it drys, the matrix line will be visible. You dont need sand paper on that one. I only use 1500 and 2000 grit for extremely thick defroster lines.

I thought I would share how to make this one easier. Shrink/Wet Shrink: Roll film out on BG, trim along bottom-edge, bump bottom down, mark sides, roll down, and trim top-edge. Then trim sides and round off corners. Dry shrink the bottom portion, pull film off, roll down glass and wet shrink the top portion. Its important to anchor in the middle and to anchor where it creates more to shrink, not less to avoid fingers. I bottom load with hatch up. Reverse roll works good too. Panel Removal: This panel comes off fast. Pop the light covers and remove strap cover and remove 3 - 10mm bolts. Door panels are 3 bolts that are in same location on all doors.

I did that once to make it easier install! It didnt help. I can shrink any bg and windshield, but install?? I cant install a windshield worth a shiat. I quit after every single one, but somehow try again. 😂

That windshield really curves from one side to the other. When shrinking corners the gun should be slightly pointing “away” from the vehicle to be shrinking along the factory edge. Id say global shrinks better than most films.

Suntek changed something with the liner in last year or so that made the liner pull easier. I asked about the scratching and they said theres no plan to change it since it may change other characteristics in the film. As for scratching its not an issue anymore for me, mainly due to keeping tools smooth. Its the easiest to shrink for me and imperfections and dots press out better than anything Ive used.

No more cuts snapping blades w/ this.

I use LA Awesome for adhesive removal. I hear Fusion Epic Orange works good.

I pulled real hard with my pick tool recently and caught my thumb! Wasnt too bad since my fingers are rough.

Yeah, I’ve never seen thick lines on a Kia. Probably because newer glass is just softer.

Choose what most of your customers will want and what they will find when searching films.

Went back and forth with everything and the unger wins for me. It never tires your arm, cheapest to swap blade and just cleans better. 6” is too big on some roll ups and doesnt make good contact on really curvy rollups. I trimmed one down to 5” on these and use the 6” mostly for trucks and SUVs.

I use a 5” & 6” unger. I tried the crush for months and noticed slightly cleaner installs with the unger. I found this one the best to use since it take no of effort to use and you can change the blade out in seconds to a new blade. I only use clear crush to drag on hatch bgs and I push with orange on other bgs. If you put to much pressure with the clear too much of the blade will make contact, which kind of smears instead of squeegeeing. Fusions handle can stiffen it up some.

Lots of contamination spread out be could dust coming from the interior if not the water. I tried the orange, clear, and pink on rollups. Clear was descent but im back using the unger.

Thats a bg arsenal right there! There should be a click to pay button to see it!!

For the 19’ Cadillac CTS heres the door panel removal. You can also only remove bottom seal. Fronts - 1- 7mm behind handle cover, 2 - 7mm under armrest Rears - 1 - 7mm behind handle cover, 2 - 7mm under armrest cover

Just tucked a 2nd wrangler with panel off. Never bottom loading these. Tucking is just easier for me in this one.

Thats true if you it for some vehicles. I guess I feel the titan can do what the reach can. One tool I do like that I picked up recently is a blue and yellow quick foot. Great for tight bottom corners on bgs and I use it to shrink underneath spoilers.