pbalentine

I use an 8” roll for visors and save any scraps that can do a visor.

Wont dont people just call the F’ing shop that did it??

Sunteks new Ceramic is way better now. They changed it a few months ago. The green hue is gone and its more black than CXP now. Also, they added a 15%, which is darker if anything.

Foxbody mustang=no tucking. These are a must to bottom drop.

Id say after 2. I had a Vette a long time ago I tried 3 on. I turn down Vettes now. To learn them I would need to do them regularly, which is the problem. I’ll turn down Beetles too.

Tinted 7 times and didnt fry the electronic module on the driver side of the windshield?? Damn thats lucky. Im glad I stopped tinting them.

For the ones Ive done, I flush like crazy, razor window, scrub and squeegee like 4x times. Then just end up with tons of contamination like it wasnt even cleaned along with light gaps. I will never tint one again!

Using the 60” is complete waste of time. If you’re not butt seaming these by now you’re as clueless as the shop this guy went to.

No way around it…they suck. So relieved to not do them anymore. I’ll just let my comp do these, and I’ll just schedule more full vehicles. Plus, 90% of people want them on Trucks and Teslas…no thanks!

I bottom load them all pretty much. Its either a few minutes to remove stuff or fixing imperfections from leaving it on.

BMW..just low end Euro junk.

Make sure you clean reallywell. I squeegee twice and flush heavy on sides and bottom.

Ive seen that one. It would be too weak. Im still waiting for a heat gun thats solely made for tinting.

Seals that pull with one to zero screws.

For top cut I hold olfa how Jason holds a butcher knife. Then I cut right to left. Im right handed.

If anything, the 21’s are easier since they changed the defrosters lines on the BG. The lines are not as thick and run horizontally. No more peanut problems. I sand the lines if the older ones. Sanded the hell of a 21 Charger and got zero peanuts.

Rear 1/4s are different sizes. Ive had to trim the passenger side from the inside 3x now! Probably do it again, but maybe its faster this way? While im here, the gaskets come out with one screw by handle.

No matter the film it will need to be replace after 7-10 years.

You’ll want to turn it off between windows. If theres a panel to remove I do that first before turning ignition on, unless its a quick pull of a seal. Then I clean, install, roll glass up and turn it off.

Right after install I clean inside & outside and press any contamination dots down I see from the inside and small creases. If any crease doesnt lay down I leave it dry and get it later. Once job is finished I check again from the outside real quick.

Only thins ones Ive seen are the gray Unger brand from Home Depot. Of all the micro fibers Ive used none compare to the ones from Perfect Clean.

In the 2nd photo the far left top corner is down flat, but there are a few fingers on the side if it. Shrinking more evenly will make it easier, so you dont end up with a fingers like that. Also, If you smooth the film flat while shrinking, try not to smooth so far day to allow the film to float and shrink easier. Edit: Try a glove to smooth. The hard card makes the film stick to much.

Don’t dust off the tool pouch if you have one. Just trash it like I did. Best tool improvement yet.

Following up with an adhesive remover is a must for BG removal.

If the install looks good you might want to leave it. Its hard avoiding adhesive with removals and I doubt they’re gonna give you a perfect removal and a refund.