Felixbiel

2 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

Im gonna guess that this technique will work on old removed lettering decals that have a ghost image when it gets steamy or foggy. 

I haven't personally tried it, but stands to reason it should.

On 10/16/2020 at 8:48 AM, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

🤯 all these years and Ive never found a way to get rid of defogger. 

Learned this from watching vinyl installers. When sticking lettering or logos they will torch the glass to get rid of Rainx or products like it. Works just the same on the inside.

When spray the glass with the slip solutions does it just bead up like a waxed surface? If so, you can lightly torch the inside surface and it will burn off whatever is on there. Once done the slip solution should spread and stay on surface without beading up.

I have done my last three phones, but they are all water resistant or proof (iPhone and Android). The only issue I have now is the beveled screen edge either gets slowly pushed back from phone case and/or side buttons.

Have been using CS for about year and a half (not a great indicator of longevity) and is pretty much same as XR just without the IR targeting. No problems yet with peeling fading etc. in Texas, but it is a short sample period.

I second and third what everyone has said. Great films but terrible customer service and they just don't seem to care that they suck.

On ‎4‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 3:01 AM, Eurotone said:

Did not the film bent? Have a photo from inside? Judging by the fault "A", you did toning a few days earlier. You just did not notice the curve cut film. It is necessary to redo 100%. But I would apply because of the rest (I highlighted malfunctions). It is unacceptable.

How long ago was it tinted? Looks like their still water bubbles drying out. One around exhibit A and two more towards lower left. Shouldn't be there after six months but maybe something to do with camera.

G Wagon

9 hours ago, FormVsFunction said:

My local F1 shop is The Tint Pros in Newport Beach, CA. They must be one of those shops that were beta testing Stratos. The heat rejection numbers don't look all that different on paper, but the feeling from the display that they had (admittedly, designed by Llumar to sell more Stratos) was night and day different.

They were one of the test run shops, which I think has been going on for a year. Great shop from what I here.

Have done several so far and always take the door panels off. There is the three torx behind the inner handle, plastic clips all the way around, and metal clips along the door sweep. the last clip on the door sweep towards the back of the window is tough to get released but will with a little moving around of the door panel.

Take some aftermarket felt and place a strip on the end of a clip board and use it to slip behind those close-to-the-glass brake lights; just be sure the clip is facing the deck when you squeegee (this is neanderthal days of tint tool development).

my tool of choice too . Good old $5 clipboard . I actually have 3 each different thicknesses .

Wooden clipboard will get everything. Works better than any tint tool that I have used and they cost $.89