Bham

I like @Rykerdescription even better.

When I do ones like that I shrink as close as I can to the trim and then finish the rest on the inside. If done correctly there won't be that many fingers to deal with on the inside. Cover a hard card in a non-scratch paper towel and shrink what is there after install.

If there is still a chance of letting light in but you don't want to see the brick wall, I would think about going with some sort of deco film in a frost or prismatic pattern. This would allow some light in but you would not be able to see the bricks. Also, " If " you wanted to go that far,,, you could do a printed film with a picture of the old view you used to have.

ATR

Here’s a video demonstrating this process.

@CamperDan You are trying to use visual comparison to override actual math. This is like trying to disprove physics. Also you are viewing just layers of tint and are not including the “green glass” that the tint is usually applied to. Which usually meters from 70% - 74%

Just out of curiosity ? Where is this window located as far as height? If this window is say above your head or shoulder height it really needs a safety film of some sort. Six foot glass shards coming down from that height is very dangerous and they won't be small pieces. Pieces big enough to take a limb off at that height. Just sayin...

You will need to be more specific on the type of install the get a recommendation on type of film needed. Since this is an exterior glass, how much direct sun or semi-shaded sun does it get at a given time? What type of glass is it? Single pane? Double pane? Plate or tempered? What type of frame is around the glass? Wood? Metal? Plastic? What is the purpose of the install? Privacy? Security? Heat? Blackout film on a glass that size is risky on any type of glass but if this is a single pane plate glass it is even more risky if it gets any type of sun exposure.

This is just like the 2015-2018 GMC/Chevy door panels with defective vinyl dye. Everyone argued with me that it was the solutions we are using Thank you for the heads up on this

I am assuming that you mean the whole windshield? So , My question is how/where are you even able to pass an inspection with full windshield tint?

Can't help much with the plotter issue This is just a guess But the finger issue sounds like you might be shrinking film that is turned the wrong direction. Plotters are set up to save film and sometimes the patterns are turned on the roll to save waste. You have to remember that film only shrinks up and down (roll end to roll end). It will not shrink sideways and if you door patterns are turned you have to move your fingers to the sides and not the bottom and shrink (snap) your patterns in a different way.

Came out rather well if I do say so myself. No rear interior panels (thankfully) and the rear glass had never been tinted.

What if you were told that they are both the same films and you are paying extra for a name??

Llumar used to make an ATR 35 green. Not sure they still make it so you would have to find someone with old stock.

Those type of fingers are caused by improper lay-out, prep and improper installation. You can't work fingers on the sides of the film. You can't shrink fingers on the sides of the film. During lay-out, all fingers must be moved to the bottom of the window and shrunk there. Attempting to install a window that had been laid out with fingers on the side will result in fingers on the side after install. Shrinking side fingers after install also does not work. You need to improve your lay-out/cut skills and pay attention to where the fingers are during that process. Move all side fingers to the bottom, shrink bottom fingers if necessary ( i.e. - snap the film ) and then install it exactly the same way you laid it out. If you are still getting these side fingers after improving your install, then you are cutting patterns to big or going to far into the side seal area and are probably going past the glass. Proper lay-out, placement and install patterns are important.

You might already be using this method and if so, why the heck haven't you told us about it? If not, this method might just be your new favorite thing. I discovered this method doing a removal on an SUV hatch and didn't want to get glue all over me from it being over my head. I tried this method and will be using it on ALL removals from now on. By now we are all using some type of adhesive remover that works really well turning the glue to goo; but it's rather messy. Usually we pull the old piece off in one piece leaving the glue. Spray the glue with remover and then put the removed piece of film back on the glass reversed and let it soak. At this point, after it has softened the glue, I would pull the piece of film down and scrape the glue with a hard card and let the goo stuff fall on the film or a drop cloth. Rather nasty but effective way to do it, BUT try this. Pull your old film and flip it over and soak your glue in remover. After the glue has softened but BEFORE you pull your liner film down - spray your liner with soapy water and then take a hard card or squeegee of your choosing( I use the 6" black & white) and start at the sides and pull as much glue as you can to the center of the glass; while leaving the liner on the glass. You will see the glue moving under the film. Your squeegee will stay clean because it's not touching glue. Do this on both sides pulling the glue to the center and up from the bottom hat rack area. The glue will stay on the liner when you pull it down and now all you have to do is a little clean up with some steel wool and a scrub pad. This method is way less messy that pulling the liner down and scraping. I wish I had found this method years ago because it gets 90% of the glue off without getting you or your tools sticky.

That rear glass is not that hard actually. Just have to finish it on the inside top because of the outside vinyl top.

Tired, but it came out great.

Have you checked the ground wire to make sure it's connected properly and has a good ground? That's what they always asked me.

This sound like me going to deep into an automotive repair. I'm shade tree at best and usually don't know if it's right until it doesn't blow up or catch fire.

When you say "manufacture" ; what exactly do you mean? Do you have extrusion capabilities beginning at the PET level, or are you laminating someone else's extruded product?

Those type of skills come with time. You have to get a feel for how the process works and how the film acts before you will understand the advanced shrinking techniques. You can search the lift & pull method and also the different dry shrinking techniques.

Darker films are harder to shrink. Like @TintDude said, if this is CS film from MMM then you need to get a different film for practice. The CS line is hard to work with and you might not be learning properly because of the difficulty of the film to work with. Proper beginning techniques are not going to be the same with this film and you don't know any advanced techniques to make this film easier to work with. After getting a different film in a lighter shade, you learning process will be much more pleasant and easier.

Personally I would run and tell them never to call you back again. Never saw any results from them other than the money they charge for this and for that. There are all kinds of hidden fees that don't really add up to helping you in any way. Took me forever to get rid of them and they kept trying to charge me after I told them to pound sand.

2023 Lexus IS 350 = doors have an insane amount of shrink to them. I was rather surprised how much.