Bham

The good part about the UV is that it HAS TO BE 99% rejective of UV because it will fall apart if it wasn't. Even cheap film has to be very high in the UV rejection scale. As for the actual feel benefits. I am sorry that your tint is not performing as well as you think it should. I have to disagree with the ceramic part though. Ceramic is for sure better that regular deep dyed films in the TSER department. Which is the most important part of window film. You can't help glass being a magnifier for solar heat but ceramic films are the best to fight this problem. Reflective films are illegal and dangerous so that leaves ceramic or a hybrid film that is high on the IR rejection scale. I would not sell snake-oil and do my very best to give my customer the proper film for their application. I sell ceramic knowing that it works.

You can take surface temperature out of the equation. Window film is design to absorb and reflect heat, and it has to go somewhere. Anytime you install film, the surface temperature of the glass always goes up. It goes up even more with films like ceramic that perform better than dyed films. Like TomTint said,, film is not magic. It doesn't stop heat(what we feel), it only slows it down. The rest of the vehicle is going to heat up around the tinted windows, therefore conducting and radiating out into the rest of the car. Window tint is for direct feel of the IR on our skin coming from the sun's energy, not for cooling off an entire car that is baking in the sun. Not to mention the UV protection, but that's a different subject. And yes, @Roach After having your vehicle tinted all the way around, the windshield is your weak point now as far as blocking heat. Get it done in something light but performing and you will not regret it.

@Tint Eastwood and anyone else who wants to try a SUPER EASY - great tasting bbq pork loin. This recipe rocks!!

Hey @KonSiva I fixed it so you would be more comfortable looking at it.

@jh812 is correct. there is “one” thing you can do to fix it you can razor blade all the defroster lines down, then the film will lay in smooth. Defroster won’t work ever again, but it will look great.

I'm no expert by any means, but it seems this is a no win situation. Given the above statement being true, even if you can get down to where you are dealing with just adhesive left on the glass, using anything to remove it is going to cause some sort of damage. If you use plastic scrapers on chemically soaked adhesive, I would think the build up of the glass particles is still going to scratch the glass. Much like an ice scraper can if there is a particle under it other than ice. If you use four aught steel wool on soaked adhesive you are going to spiderweb the glass with swirls. Although this seems the best method possibly. ATR adhesive remover and some steel wool and elbow grease. Alloy frames shouldn't be affected, you would just need to control run off of chemicals. When installing and not being able to use a blade to pre-clean due to rough glass or improper surface, it's always a white scrub pad and a denture brush or toothbrush to clean with and I don't see either one of those being very effective unless your chemical is really good at breaking up adhesive residue. Keeping up with this one. Interested in the solution.

That sensor should be flush against the windshield. When the film goes on you should have to cut around it, therefore not interfering with it. I’ve done quite a few windshield and front strips on those cars and haven’t had anyone complaints. TiNT it. You should be fine.

Panorama CX35%

Half and half

The tallest side (left looking at the picture) will have most fingers closet to it. Easier to work them too and bottom in the big section. The short side should have some fingers across the bottom possibly but the top shouldn’t have any. Work all your fingers top and bottom. You gotta remember not to tilt your film to much and keep the factory edge level or else your are shrinking towards the sides of the film which doesn’t act very well when you do that.

That is a trimmed top edge after laying out really long all the way around, then trimming closer as I kinda lay the film down with my hand, trying to make sure not to trim and then end up short because of the extreme curve. Lay it out wet, trim properly (1/4" long ALL THE WAY around) then flip it over and dry the piece off and then try a dry shrink and work with curve as you would a Vette rear glass. You can still stretch while dry shrinking. Once it's shrunk, trim to fit all but the side by entry door. It should lay in around the curve fine but because of the change of the inside curve VS the outside curve, you will have to trim some after install because it is smaller on the inside. If you try to cut it fit on the outside it will still be long on install.

Maybe this pic will help. You gotta lay it out and shrink the top and bottom and stretch the curve. If you've done a couple of attempts you should understand what I mean. Trim it out 1/4" long all the way around. Lay out the fingers and see which parts need to be stretched. Shrink and trim everything but the upright section farthest away from the curve. Trim the curve area to fit - and install from the curve over to straight/flat part. Best way I can describe it is that it is like doing a Vette rear glass or an older Z28 or Firebird. Stretch and shrink are both used almost in the same areas.

I will say this about the orange. It is definitely better for more slip in the heat, but it is also humidity sensitive. When the humidity goes up and it stays moist and rainy around here, the orange tends to slip a little too much at that point. It is designed not evaporate as fast in hotter temps and something about this construction of it make it really humidity touchy. It's not like it's uncontrollable or anything but your window may slide down when it enters the top seal when you roll it up, or you could make it slide out of place pushing water out, so you just have to be aware that this could happen when it's humid. Otherwise, I love the orange and use it year round, even in the winter.

Getting good at these Camry's Not impartial to the new Accords either.

@blackoutauto I am going to add something to this if you don't mind....... I want to know if these window " can be tinted one time " using just install soap and a yellow turbo. ?? Has anyone tinted these successfully without all the scraping of the coating and crap ?? Is there any damage or change in the coating after you install film ? These are serious questions and inquiring minds NEED to know 

I want to know if these window " can be tinted one time " using just install soap and a yellow turbo. ?? Has anyone tinted these successfully without all the scraping of the coating and crap ?? Is there any damage or change in the coating after you install film ? These are serious questions and inquiring minds NEED to know

I haven't really noticed a difference in the way it cleans vs. the green. I know I like the install side of it way better with the orange, for hot times.

Yes Sir. I’ve been using it year round, I just lighten up on the amount during the winter. Been using it for flat glass installs also.

Wow this sounds like a train wreck I used to travel all over Florida, stayed in one spot 3 to 4 months at a time and then on to the next location. If you get something with a kitchenette it makes life much easier to save on eating, but the major problem is the dog. Finding somewhere cheap enough to make this worth it that will accept a dog is going to be tough. The ones that will accept animals for any length of time are more expensive, therefore blowing your budget. Even if they are paying for the hotel, what if they won't pay for one that will accept a dog. Now you have to board it or cover the cost out of your pocket. Are you paying for (providing) film ? or are they covering that ? Working outside all the time ? there's another issue. I've done enough semi truck tinting to know that it's a lot bigger pain than it seems to be. Compensation for milage should be in there somewhere. Taking a job that will have you that far away from a newborn for that long (you can't finish it before the baby arrives),,,, are you ready for that ? Is it really that much money in the end and going to be worth the headaches ? Not sure of your current job situation, but if it's anywhere close to this amount of money in the end,,, I would pass on this and let someone better suited for it take the headaches. Refer back to the first sentence. This is just my two cents and am only trying to give you some things to consider. Good luck to you whatever you decide.

And they are not that hard to do at all. I could get used to doing them.

I am definitely a Range Rover fan.

You've been tinting 4 months but you filled out your profile as 19years experience at 36 years old. Also the repeated use of the word 'tintz" not to mention that last sentence that doesn't make any sense. This really seems like your are trolling and just trying to mess with us instead of actually asking for help. If you are serious, be honest and clean up the dumb stuff. Just sayin.

I haven't seen anyone mention this yet, so if you didn't know or haven't heard of this, well; you have now. :your welcome If you use a corny tank all the time and are doing mobile work on site? You need to add the Ryobi Fast Inflator to your tool kit. If you remember to hit the corny tanks at the shop on the compressor before you leave you are usually good for the day, and nobody likes carrying around a compressor in the van. Well get you the fast inflator and a battery and you can recharge the corny on site without the compressor. It works rather well actually and will get you out of a bind if you need to pressurize your tank.