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About NZTNT1

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  1. NZTNT1


  2. All good advice here. I try to do as much of my clean up dry as possible. These are the extra steps I take cut around the the putty edge first and the dry scrape the glass up to the frame brush loose all the crap off the frames with a dry stiff nylon brush then vacuum the frames and surrounding areas wet scrape glass, squeggee and dry frames with paper towel from that point on it's a normal install however I do use a peel panel and really wet the adhesive and avoid wetting the glass. I hope this helps you and anyone else that has challenges with frames like this
  3. Most Architects I work with accept Metamark M4 or M7 as acceptable replacements. I am also aware of other installers reboxing it in 3M cartons and the architects, builders and clients not knowing the difference. Not ethical but not surprising either.
  4. Wow 40 views and zero responses. Maybe members can't be bothered responding, don't actually know or want to share.
  5. My business is installing high end residential/commercial flat glass solarfilm and security film and with that I have alot of variety in pane sizes. The software I use is a subscription based package called Optimalon this helps me produce cutting plans very quickly and with a wastage factor of often less than 10%. For cutting I have 60" & 72" wall mounted film handlers which can be ladder mounted for on site cutting. If it is a large safety film contract I like to cut onsite and cut the film exact and install with zero trim which makes for very fast installing. PM me if you'd like to see a pdf of a cutting plan.
  6. Can someone provide a info on the state of the Low E film market in North America and internationally? In New Zealand we have had Enerlogic, Ecolux, Thinsulate & Penjerex. I'm fairly certain that Penjerex is no longer manufactured and have seen some very nasty hardcoat / low-e coating failures. There have also been rumours that Enerlogic is no longer being produced. Thinsulate was having hardcoat issues which I experienced with it being damaged by masking tape and omnichrome wax pencils has that been resolved. And that only leaves Ecolux which I have most experience with and haven't had any challenges apart from drying which was my fault using wrong squegees and not doing an extra pass. Seeing the bigger picture and hearing other installers experiences would be great
  7. There was a research paper done by the IWFA that solidly refuted the idea that film causes seal failure. The physics given the volume of air and heat gain with that film preclude film as a cause. Besides IGU's fail regularly any without film.
  8. Not sure I've used this technique removing failed external silver20 on a conservatory roof and it worked well. The pole I used was about 10ft with a heavy duty triumph scraper. I also used a corny keg and a lot of slip and scraper blades My hesitation is because anti graffiti is quite thick and gets brittle with age but it does have a ps adhesive and so it cleans up well. All the best with this work.
  9. I'm with you on this GT999 I have a house load fo stripping dry adhesive on toughened glass coming my way. It's a strange possible delamination issue the manufacturer has accepted as a warranty claim. What I would be interested to know is the difference between CDA and CDF. Is one a detackified ps and therefore a steamer may work or are they both different beasts altogether?
  10. Have lots of Ryobi One tools. But when I saw these couldn't get to the checkout fast enough. Great for when your corny is down to 20psi and your on L12 of a building
  11. Just buy new from Filmhandler best investment you can make. I have a 60" been using for 25+ years and a 72" I bought 5 years ago for a large AG install. Both paid for themselves many times over with speed, accuracy, and lower wastage. Also have setup a bracket mounting system to work on a multi fold ladder so I can do 3.0m drops onsite. Useful to avoid tunneling/spears on 175 micron Anti graffiti.
  12. You need to use a film with a peelable adhesive such as anti graffiti or failing that increase the soap in your slip solution. Maybe a bit of trial and error but no technical reason it shouldn't work.
  13. I've just had a client message me that he still has water bubbles on a Thinsulate install. The job was completed approx 6 weeks ago. He had called me a week after the install commenting on the bubbles and I suggested waiting a month. What concerns me is that I had given the film an overlapping double pass with a orange crush and don't normally have any bubbles. Has any one else had drying issues with Thinsulate?
  14. Hi I've struggle with ths too over the years. My first realisation was they are different. Seal Failure is generally poor manufacture and installation of the glass. Units fail all the time without film and there have been no documented instances where film has been a proven cause of IGU Failure. The IGU manufacturers put this in their warranties as standard practise it's nonsense. Thermal stress breakage is another story we can mitigate the risk by noting the glass type, thickness, size, and tint. And then choosing the appropriate film according to film Manufacturers spec's. Once that's done if the film has a solar absorption of over 40% and it's a laminate or overhead then get the client to sign off a waiver to cover partial shading and hidden edge damage. Good luck and be prepared to walk away from jobs.
  15. The best spray wands I have found for my corny kegs come from Smith Sprayers. They have brass tips and built in filters.