civicrice

you have to come up with scenarios that would make it plausible. there are scratches on glass that can't be seen until they are tinted. I see it all the time and even worry I will be blamed. the majority of the cutting i do is on the peel board to avoid any problems that relate to this.

did the customer expect zero contamination with that price?

I used the ceramic 40 on my dads cobalt 9 years ago. it still looks good. no adhesive failure. If i ever decided to switch over geoshield would be an option i would look into.

nice! how does it compare to xpel and the other big names? I'm undecided between madico and global.

adhesive promoter?

shouldn't be too bad. They have a 10 year warranty on it which leads me to believe its a stout film. have you had any samples of it? wondering how much orange peel it has.

solar guard should work .

scratches were on the outside

the closest i've come to being able to see bubbles is using a daylight spectrum flood lamp on a light bulb holder (the ones with a single aluminum hood shielding). then angling and adjusting it with one hand to be able to inspect the entire glass. i had to do this to accommodate tint jobs late into the night.

Is it time to hang up the pouch? I think i've seen it all at this point. From issues with water frying pricey electronics on door panel switches ( new range rovers), frying computers on rear decks (new Mercedes), and faulty brittle defroster lines (I've seen it on jeeps, chrysler, and Buick), the delicate U.V. coating on the newer Lexus and Toyotas, and now your telling me that plastic can scratch glass?! it seems like doing cars is starting to be a liability, regardless of safety measures. To the OP, thanks for posting this. will keep an eye out for these Audis.

wrap institute has a vid on it

in defense of the tinter it might have looked good fresh. definitely get it redone. they shouldn't hassle you about it either.

I low key want a stainless steel keg pressurized sprayer. hoping somebody has been listening to my complaints about my spray bottles this summer lol

if that worked for you, one should be good using a water wick then?

I won't train someone for the fact that i have never worked at a shop that hasn't created their own competitors. I have worked along side meth heads though, fun times.

That will cure. May I suggest you give the yellow sledgehammer squeegee a shot from pro gasket tools. Best squeegee I have used that gets damn near all the water out with one pass.

gross or profit? you figure $300 a car is $210 after you pay Biden his cut -$30 in material - $45 (roughly) for overhead= $135 net profit you do 100 full cars a month on the good season (700 for 7months) and 300 cars on slow season (5 months worth of cars)= 1,000 cars a year $135 x 1,000 cars= $135,000 I didn't include insurances and based the shop rent at about $1,000 a month. totally doable for a 1 man op but the stress can be devastating.

just depends if there is any tint shops around you and the level of income the population around you gets. if you live in a poverty stricken area you might have to trade tint for food stamps.

busier seasons 5 to 8 a day

thanks ryker, I was referring to the roll up windows. I'll try that out for the back window though.

I was doing a time study on my tinting technique and I'm curious to see how many of you guys smooth the film (with a softer squeege or pass) before you really lock it down with a hard pass. I'm trying to cut time down without sacrificing quality.

interesting to read the customers perspective on situations like this. 3m crystalline is notoriously difficult to install, your windshield might just be that get right after 5 attempts piece of glass. considering the cost of materials it sounds like the shop doesn't want to keep wasting film, thus the previous subpar installs.

bump

NT blades are sharp as Sh!t. I had an unused pack that i got a year ago and had to use it because my olfa ran out. I can double cut with ease and rarely have to go over cuts when doing back windshields. For some reason though i can't get a crisp cut on the top door edges. they are jagged and feel rough. I use the olfa for the top edge on rolls downs.

its crap tint. In my opinion any film that can last at least 5 years is solid enough but 2 to 3 years is to soon. I've been using global for 10 years no problems.