Tint Eastwood

I’d always do a quick “flush” of the bottom just before laying the film on the glass. Cured most of the issues I had with that bottom contamination.  

I never have liked the SYDS films, blue hue as you mentioned and more of a silver appearance to the reflectivity on the exterior. I’d say any DR 35/25 should do the job. 25 would obviously offer more privacy.

I would have some questions as well. 
 
-What type of glass? (IG, single pane)
-How important is natural light to the space and it’s workings during daylight hours?
-Is there any visibility concerns looking outward/inward into the nighttime hours?
-What does the CEO expect the exterior to look like post tinting?

I would have some questions as well. 
 
-What type of glass? (IG, single pane)
-How important is natural light to the space and it’s workings during daylight hours?
-Is there any visibility concerns looking outward/inward into the nighttime hours?
-What does the CEO expect the exterior to look like post tinting?

Little bit of White Matte and Feather Gradient. Almost got thrown off the job because I removed my mask for a few minutes while in the sweltering hot/humid pool room by myself, in a hotel that has yet to open with maybe 3-4 people in the whole entire building. Fun times...

So I finally broke down a got a plotter, albeit a cheap one. Expected it would give me some issues along the way but figured I’d at least get a piece or two cut before that happened. 
 
I bought this off someone local and the best I could tell it had never  been used or even taken out of the box. But it definitely has an issue with the carriage, not sure if this is indicative of the cheapness or it was mishandled somewhere along the way.
 
There is a grinding and vibration coming from the carriage whenever it tries to track left or right but it usually won’t move. Sometimes it does but it will go the opposite direction then what I’m telling it. If I place my finger on the side it will usually track smoothly with just the slightest pressure. 
 
Anyone seen a similar issue? Can’t really find anything directly related to this....  
 
 

Try doing a wet check when you’re done shrinking. That should highlight any areas that you are not shrinking enough.

Try doing a wet check when you’re done shrinking. That should highlight any areas that you are not shrinking enough.

From my understanding, 3M Fasara films were pulled from Solyx's product lineup. I would contact solyx by phone and inquire what their equivalent is....  

A few jobs, some printed film and 3M Dusted Crystal.

Its been 16 ish years . Pretty sure they are over it....???

on older cars I start the motor while doing roll ups  ..........  its  not my gas !

Not sure if you mean the White Matte or Gradient film....
 
White Matte definitely doesn’t like creases or any stress in the corners. If you get any it will take a while to dry enough to lay it down. Usually a day or so, maybe an hour or two if it gets direct sun. I just try to roll it out smooth and use factory/straight cut edges as much as possible. Giving relief cuts in the corners when trimming really goes a long way to not stress the film so it lays flat. 
 
For the gradient/printed films I will precut exact sizes (enough to get in the frame a bit) and avoid cutting on the glass altogether. These films have a super sticky adhesive and don’t like to be slid around for placement. So use A LOT of slip/water and try to place it VERY close to where it needs to go because you will only have a couple seconds to slide it around before the adhesive will start tracking. Takes forever for those track marks to dry out, if at all.

Little bit of White Matte and Feather Gradient. Almost got thrown off the job because I removed my mask for a few minutes while in the sweltering hot/humid pool room by myself, in a hotel that has yet to open with maybe 3-4 people in the whole entire building. Fun times...

Little bit of White Matte and Feather Gradient. Almost got thrown off the job because I removed my mask for a few minutes while in the sweltering hot/humid pool room by myself, in a hotel that has yet to open with maybe 3-4 people in the whole entire building. Fun times...

Little bit of White Matte and Feather Gradient. Almost got thrown off the job because I removed my mask for a few minutes while in the sweltering hot/humid pool room by myself, in a hotel that has yet to open with maybe 3-4 people in the whole entire building. Fun times...

Little bit of White Matte and Feather Gradient. Almost got thrown off the job because I removed my mask for a few minutes while in the sweltering hot/humid pool room by myself, in a hotel that has yet to open with maybe 3-4 people in the whole entire building. Fun times...

Yeah, not such a good idea. 
 
If I was a customer taking my car to be worked on and some dude came out taking pictures and documenting damage, I would think they have a big problem damaging cars, and what the heck are they doing that has the potential to damage my car? Heck yeah, I'd inspect it well afterwards.
And like others said, you are opening yourself up to owning everything you didn't document.

Damn! Did the installer look like this by any chance?

Since the pictures are tough to tell from..... easiest way to tell where they are is too feel with the backside of your fingernail.  If they are on the outside then you will have to pay attention to the pattern of the scratches to determine the cause.  If they are on the inside and you can feel them easily in the tint,,, well, that's self explanatory.  Only bigger issue is if they are on the inside UNDER the tint.  Then that's gonna take some real looking at to see what the cause is.  

Good luck.   

I’m up in Asheville, so about 4 hours away. Plus I don’t do auto anymore. JH is over in New Bern, still a haul from Raleigh but he might know someone or have a recommendation for a shop that’s closer to you. Prob worth giving him a call if you can’t find anyone. Just google search Hardison Window Tinting. He does top notch work and is a great guy.  

I’m up in Asheville, so about 4 hours away. Plus I don’t do auto anymore. JH is over in New Bern, still a haul from Raleigh but he might know someone or have a recommendation for a shop that’s closer to you. Prob worth giving him a call if you can’t find anyone. Just google search Hardison Window Tinting. He does top notch work and is a great guy.  

I know @Tint Eastwood and @jh812 are both in NC, not sure if they're within reasonable distance to Raleigh though. Perhaps they can give you another recommendation if they're not able to get you taken care of. 

If my memory serves me correctly they said their equivalent to the Milky Milky is White Dusted Matte. Don't take my word for it though......I've smoke a lot of pot in my day.  

Looks like a bit of trash and small crease from two staging the install.