Derny311

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About Derny311

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    5 yrs
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  1. Derny311

    2016 XE sedan

    On the front driver and passenger door remove this small trim piece to show a torx screw. Door grip has one small 7mm bolt in it. Remove bolt and lift piece out. It takes some wiggle but will come out. This will expose 2 bolts holding the door panel. Remove 2 9mm bolts and door panel will pop off. Nothing but plastic clips holding it in at this point.
  2. Derny311

    2016 XE sedan

    Ok this post helped me out so much. I went a little further and took off the whole door panel. I’ll post some pics of the remaining bolts. Nothing terrible and comes off with ease.
  3. I did this baby a couple weeks ago. To help do the back window we applied a 1 in vinyl strip on the outside. Then tinted it and left a small gap around glass. The vinyl strip covered up the gap so well it looked factory. I wish I would have gotten better pics of the back window but the customer loved it.
  4. Yeah I use a lot of 5% which is why I use it now. Or the other day I used it to cut the super tight tundra back glass and it worked perfectly.
  5. Yeah 3m painters tape. Very flexible. I bet if you could find it in white it would be a even better.
  6. I use painters tape to outline the window. After I dry shrink it I simply cut along the inside line and install. No lights or constantly getting in the car. I'm thinking pinstripe would also work well.
  7. Sorry for not being so specific waxworkz. The issue I had was the film not wanting to tack down where the hood comes down. The spot in the second pic. My slip solution is water with about 30% alcohol and a drop of JJ. I prep everything with rapid prep before hand. Tack solution is alcohol and water. On that bottom edge of the hood even after I pro bonded it and squeegee everything out I hand small fingers wanting to come up.
  8. Ok so I'm using Suntek Paint Protection and today I did a 2012 GL-550. I didn't have the kit so most of it I had to handcut. The hood took me forever and I found it difficult to install. It came out good but I'm worried about it lifting up. I did probond the edge but I was still having issues. Can someone give me some pointers if I have to redo it? This was the trouble spot I was working with. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Hey thanks guys for all the feedback. Yeah I really feel like it is a static issue with the Performa. I'm gonna look into that anti-static strip or spray and see if it helps. Other than that I guess I'll hand cut it. ;-)
  10. Ok so I'm having issues with my plotter and the Performa 45 I'm using. When I load it on the machine and it begins to cut, it has a problem when cutting and pulling on the film. It bunches up as it starts to roll back. I have no problems with extreme or the ceramic. It almost feels like the film is so clingy with static that even with the rollers loose its having a hard time sliding through the machine. Any one else with these issues. I've tried moving to rollers closer and it helps a little but I'm still having an issue. I'm using a Vinyl Express Q42.
  11. Huper Optik Extreme 5% on the sides and rear and 40% on the front with a strip. It's a company show truck. 16" Lift with 44s.
  12. My brother in law has a bad habit of heating from the inside when he tints and he teaches his guys to do the same. Both of them have already burned up a door panel. I've seen one get burned up from the outside. Especially those fragile ones on vws and nissans. Sorry to hear about your damage and hope the shop owner just fixes the panel.