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    Greenville SC
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    United States

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MastersTint1414's Achievements

  1. Any tinter knows those bubbles and creases are not going away no matter how long you wait. Looks like it was done in a sandstorm.
  2. Go with Llumar. The scratch coat on Suntek is not good. I recommend Llumar's Air80 for the windshield, great film. I personally prefer Llumar's IRX over CTX, but I am a Llumar dealer.
  3. Masters Car Stereo and Tint in Greenville, SC is seeking new team members to join our family. We are looking for experienced team players but are willing to train the right individual. While we are primarily seeking experienced sales professionals, we are always interested in meeting experienced 12volt installers and tinters. Tinters with PPF and vinyl experience are especially welcome to contact us! We are seeking professionals and pay accordingly. We are one of the largest IID service centers in the state which means that background checks are required. If you are interested in joining a team of professionals working for an established business I look forward to hearing from you!
  4. I heard a rumor that there are a couple of other manufacturers talking about using a similar film on their vehicles soon.
  5. Llumar sent out a memo on these. It does have a coating on the windows. If your customer really wants them tinted, just use a scrub pad lightly and apply. No manufacturer will warranty because film is designed to adhere to glass, not another film.
  6. Most manufacturers will only warranty a legal tint job. Check with the shops you are considering to see if they will warranty it even if the manny won't.
  7. I use a hard card with a paper towel wrap to get stubborn spots.
  8. I use Llumar too. I have gotten a bad roll before. (to see if it is film issue pull another box and try it) You should not that much trouble on that window. As someone else has already said, move your anchor point higher. Leave your bottom long so you can move the film up if you crease it. From the pictures you seem to only need an inch or two to finish the top of the shrink so finish the hard part first then after you scoot the film up do the bottom. I usually float the film as I shrink but if I have a hard car I will try to make my fingers as small as possible. It is better to shrink 3 small fingers than 1 big one if you are having crease issues. And like pbalentine said, don't go too far up at once, shrink evenly.
  9. Your last sentence was spot on... find a good shop. I personally prefer Llumar IRX, but I am a Llumar dealer. There are other good films out there. But, no matter how good the film is you need a reputable shop to install it. Go to the manufacturer's website and check out their numbers.
  10. The articles I have read lead me to believe that the rear seats fold down. I don't see a release latch anywhere. I did leave my glasses at home today. Does anyone have any ideas? I can do it without letting the seats down but it would make the job easier. Thanks
  11. As for your hand cutting, are you cutting one side then sliding it over about a 1/4" before cutting the other side? This will help he any small imperfections in your cuts and keep from having light gaps. As far as contamination, Remember cause and effect... everything you do should have purpose. Pay attention to everything. Yes, not extracting enough water can be a problem. So can allowing the water from your sprayer to hit the upper seal and dripping water down onto the window. Do you clean your seals and tape off felt? Do you touch up before it leaves? A heat gun and lil chizler can do miracles. Do you use a peel board or work off the car? You can wash dirt after pulling the liner and wetting the film. Do you let dirt get on the tip of your sprayer? Do you have a fan blowing? Do you wash down your floors? There are so many things that cause contamination. Paying attention to the car before it leaves and remembering each car you work on helps to identify where your issues may come from. I try not to use razors at all unless there is glue residue. i use white scrub pads. I fry the edges with a heat gun after I cut it into smaller pieces. I throw them away if they look frayed. 1/8 of a scrubby is a lot cheaper that redoing a window. Do you bottom load or top load? Bottom loading is usually cleaner but I hate pulling door panels. BTW, when I train someone new it may take a year before they are ready to meet my standards for tinting a car on their own. Sounds like you are doing pretty good. Don't get discouraged. Becoming a quality tinter takes time and patience.
  12. I am a Llumar dealer and I love the Air80. It is has excellent heat rejection for such a light film. Your problem is that most states that require inspections look for windshield tint.
  13. I know I am late to the party but I think the best way to determine if it is ATC or CTX is that CTX will not match the rear. The CTX film has a sheen where as the ATC will match in color to the rears even if it is a different shade. I recommend customers to use either ATC or IRX to keep a uniform appearance. CTX will stand out against factory tinted glass. I also recommend installing film over the factory tinted glass.
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