poppawilly67

That's weird for a non ceramic film shouldn't have Haze like that. I would just take it in and show them what's going on shouldn't be an issue just to replace those two. 

what he said.  wont bother me one bit.  ive spent time in  military so ive been called worse.

yes exactly

you want to to a + pattern instead of H. One right down the center and off the sides.

sometimes i do and sometimes i dont.  if shop doors are closed, i dont.  if doors are open, i do.  i prefer to do all my tinting with bay doors down but i seem to attract more walk ins when doors are up.
 

just tinted this car 2 days ago.  if you are a bottom loader, make it easy on yourself and pull the panels on this one.  one screw behind upper handle and one screw below handle and the panels pop right off.  the front door panels hump up towards the front of the window which makes it a pain to 2 stage.  back glass is a cake walk dry shrink but only anchor horizonal across the middle.  no "H' pattern.  also on back glass before shrinking, trim the sides as close to the border without going over.  that helps make shrinking alot easier.  one my scale of 1-10 degree of difficulty scale, i give this car a 2.  easy money.

You can call me whatever you want when you're handing me 100 dollar bills
 

ive been bouncing back and forth with a tape measure.  good tip!!!

https://dragondistributing.com/contact/

black trash bags is cheaper.

black trash bags is cheaper.

silver sharpie here.
 

I sand the whole thing with 2k wrapped on a hard card and push center out each way. After that clean with Dawn and 90% alcohol and a little bit of water. Haven't had any issues since.

I back roll and have for 30 years. My installs are clean boys! Learned lots of tricks through the years and I love those drop down back seats that access the trunk!

i just work and pay bills.  all day every day.

no.  carbon is higher than ultra price wise and vintage is about 20 bucks cheaper per roll.  when i first started using solarfx, i stated with vintage and a short time later i switched to ultra because a couple of friends that also tints is using ultra.  ultra is a color stable film and holdds its color good.  and it handles this oklahoma heat well too.  ultra is all i use.  i dont do ceramic or nothing like that as i try to keep my prices down because not many people in my area will drop 4-6 hundred to have their vehicle tinted in ceramic.  my customers love ultra and so do i so im sticking with that.
 

havent tried the carbonFX.  ultra has been working great for me.  the color is good and ive been using this film for 3 years now and love everything about it.  its a rock solid film.  like the ole saying goes "if it aint broke, dont fix it".  ultra has been a good film and i looked at cars i tinted when i first started using the film and it still looks as good as the day i installed it.  it handles that oklahoma heat well.  with that being said, i am holding to ultra.
 

bottom loading is the only way to go.  so much easier and cleaner. 
 

bottom loading is the only way to go.  so much easier and cleaner. 
 

bottom loading is the only way to go.  so much easier and cleaner. 
 

here is how i do the majority of the vehicles i tint.  snatch the seals on rollups and bottom load.  shrink rollups and double snap to insure a good shrink like on mustang and camaro rollups.  dry shrink car back glasses using the dryer sheet dry shrink method locked down horizontal across the middle of the back glass so film doesnt shift.  thats how i do 90 percent of the vehicles i tint.  and always use stainless steel blades.  no carbon blades unless using them to shave frameless rollups.  hope this helps.
 

here is how i do the majority of the vehicles i tint.  snatch the seals on rollups and bottom load.  shrink rollups and double snap to insure a good shrink like on mustang and camaro rollups.  dry shrink car back glasses using the dryer sheet dry shrink method locked down horizontal across the middle of the back glass so film doesnt shift.  thats how i do 90 percent of the vehicles i tint.  and always use stainless steel blades.  no carbon blades unless using them to shave frameless rollups.  hope this helps.
 

here is how i do the majority of the vehicles i tint.  snatch the seals on rollups and bottom load.  shrink rollups and double snap to insure a good shrink like on mustang and camaro rollups.  dry shrink car back glasses using the dryer sheet dry shrink method locked down horizontal across the middle of the back glass so film doesnt shift.  thats how i do 90 percent of the vehicles i tint.  and always use stainless steel blades.  no carbon blades unless using them to shave frameless rollups.  hope this helps.
 

i tint out of a 24x30 shop building at my house.  i send out reminders to my customers of their appt and ask them to drop their vehicle off and have someone to pick them up as it may take 3-4 hours.  i am a one man show and i dont get in no hurry.  im very picky about quality and if i dont like it, i will rip it off and start over.  customers watching is most annoying.  they want to watch every move then question why you ae doing it like that.  im not there to give them free tint lessons.  i got a few friends i will let hang while i tint but joe public can call a ride.  i dont have a waiting room.

its not that extreme.  im probably 1 inch below the seal.  but you know what?  i never had a single person came back and said their tint is peeling from the bottom since i started removing sweeps and bottom loading.