OverLord

I thought I would share how to make this one easier.
 
Shrink/Wet Shrink:
 
Roll film out on BG, trim along bottom-edge, bump bottom down, mark sides, roll down, and trim top-edge. Then trim sides and round off corners. Dry shrink the bottom portion, pull film off, roll down glass and wet shrink the top portion. 
 
Its important to anchor in the middle and to anchor where it creates more to shrink,  not less to avoid fingers. I bottom load with hatch up. Reverse roll works good too. 
 
Panel Removal:
 
This panel comes off fast. Pop the light covers and remove strap cover and remove 3 - 10mm bolts. Door panels are 3 bolts that are in same location on all doors. 

My morning was AWESOME!!    
 
 

Thanks. Much appreciated  @highcut_tint

Opps @highplains Damn tablet
 

Yep the sweeps will pull, the panel will lift off the sweep similar to the new Traverse. You need to remove the screw behind the handle, 7mm. It also helps to remove the upper trim from around the window to gain a little more clearance to the quarter window. I also trim the rubber around the quarter. Overall the quarter pushes them into "pain in the ass" territory for me but they're easy otherwise. 

Just to show what I'm talking about, this is a '16 Sierra with just under 40k miles on it. It's been detailed and is considered "front line ready" for a dealership. At first glance it looks "clean" (I see a greasy, silicone armour all coated nightmare but that's a conversation for another day)


This is what the seals/channels look like...


After a quick wipe with a damp microfiber.



This makes a world of difference in keeping your install clean. When I first got started I was trained to flush the sides and pass a hard card/bondo card/tri-edge down the seals while flushing and call it good. I fought contamination on the sides for months until I started wiping the seals as my first step when pulling a vehicle in. Hopefully you or someone else will find this helpful. 

I got a paper cut counting 100 dollar bills once......

There's way to many variables with that for us to say. However my rule of thumb is you should be able to cover rent in a decent day or two gross. So if on the regular you can do 800 a day then right around there. Also if you're not tracking your daily gross you need to be this will tell you exactly how much you can afford. Make sure you can cover it in your worse months and you'll be fine. 

It never hurts to try new tools so you can go right back to what you were using before 😂

Are you making sure that water drops are not dripping from the door frame onto the glue side of your film thus causing contamination? I always wipe any drips overhanging so as to decrease chances of dirt in the film. 

Unless it's brand new off the lot the first thing I do on any vehicle, but trucks especially, is to dampen a microfiber towel with some rubbing alcohol/water solution (20%alc) or slip solution, roll the windows down and wipe the seals out. That makes a huge difference with cutting out contamination. 

New Civic Hatchback  
 
 

1992 Camaro 
 

1992 Camaro 
 

I’ve been tinting for about 24 years. I’ve used every sort of light there is(aside from the tubelights I’ve seen on here). I’ve finally found one that does the trick. It’s like a second sun when you turn it on. The base allows you to position it to shine up, down or level with the floor. Angling it up makes cutting around windshield mirrors/electronics much easier. 

Hey @KonSiva  I fixed it so you would be more comfortable looking at it.    
 
 

@jh812 is correct.   
 
there is “one” thing you can do to fix it  
you can razor blade all the defroster lines down, then the film will lay in smooth. Defroster won’t work ever again, but it will look great.