envious eric

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  1. could always get the tank rewrapped. I pieced mine together, I think it was about 125 total. So, that 150 might be worth the 25 expense to not have to find all the parts yourself
  2. here is an issue I really need to find a solution to... for the last 3 years, its been J&J baby shampoo and distilled water. I am thinking we need something else, but not sure what else has been tried and proven to work. We have tried the 3m gel, it worked, but heard it was discontinued, dawn non-concentrated worked for great stick, but it caused too many adhesive distortions as it dries out too fast during the squeegee process (any film shifts, you get broken adhesive tick marks. Looking for something we can pick up at the local grocery store, or if something is worth it, from online. On some cars, we wash, clean, clay with slip solution, wash again, and finally wipe with 70% alcohol. (no polishing) We have issues with the film not wanting to stick to the paint no matter what we do...more soap, less soap mixes, mor or less alcohol mixes, straight water sometimes doesn't mix. We have heard people applying film over a coating, some people waxing cars, so I'm wondering what the issue could really be. For instance, we are working on a ford raptor hood, and the suntek film will not stick at all unless its on a flat part (middle). We wasted a big piece of film already because it wont stick, so I'm really curious if people think its the soap mix, something on the hood protecting it like a factory coating, or what. We are going to polish this tomorrow, and it will definitely stick fine. (wholesale job, no polishing included) Normally for my shop cars, we do a paint correction prior to the clear bra anyway, so the paintwork is bare bones for sure. But, after talking to many installers who don't polish prior, I cannot figure out what they are doing different to the point they can get the film to stick where we cannot sometimes until we polish it. It got to a point, for the benefits of our clients, that we just polish prior to any film install as its cheaper to take 30 to 60 min polishing than waste 150 to 400 in film because hoods and bumpers will not stick. SO, what is everyone using for a soap slip solutions? if we can skip the polishing on every single car, efficiency would definitely go up!
  3. Everyone gets a spec or two of dirt/debris in any install, that's a given. Nothing is perfect... What or how are you guys setting up your plotter? Are you using a media catch? Or sweeping the floor prior to plotting and letting it fall on the floor? Using a table to let it run back and forth on? We have been doing the floor option for a while now for most of the installs. We would get a couple dirt specs here and there even after wiping both sides of the film before removing from the liner. But, now that we are bulking everything except bumpers, the installs are cleaner. So the floor option is out the window. I've heard the media catch sometimes will bunch up the film and cause it to twist and get ruined during plotting, wasting film. I've wanted to setup a table to have the film track back and forth on, but not sure it would work without being slanted at a decent angle and with a glass top. I know the film will get caught on my cutting mat, so the current table won't work. Any input is appreciated, pic work too!
  4. I would love more information on this...what are you (Xpel) going to do to get more PPF clients through my doors? I was told by the old rep in my area he wouldn't entertain the idea of making another xpel certified shop out of mine because I was "too close to another shop that does insane volume in film purchasing (tons of wholesale, and lots of lowball pricing such as $1000 cash full fronts, $3800 Ferrari full car deals). That right there was one of the reasons I went with suntek instead, no support from area reps where as my suntek rep visits the shop and is willing to hear issues and comes up with solutions.
  5. side by side, suntek is still glossier on white cars. suntek also has more optically clear (not the grainy texture like xpel is known for) than stek if you are in Seattle area, go with the guys at metro (your stek film users) very strong business ethics and high quality work. I've talked to them for many years about tvarious things. John is a very stand up Guy, Ben is a kick ass installer.
  6. so what you are saying is the film would have to be redeveloped in order to not run into the hazy issues? That or always force everyone to use the cap sheet from now on? I for one hate the cap sheet, but I dont have a TON of experience with it, so I really dont know the tricks to using it (other than rolling it out, spraying with water to reduce static which is inevitable, peeling that cap sheet off, then peeling the liner off) Seems like extra work, then again, having to sit ther and heat up the film to restore the gloss is extra work, potentially unfixable like my last sheet I turned in for warranty. Went through two Tesla hoods for little bubbles in the film (not installer error bubbles) and extreme haze that wouldn't heat out. Switched to a brand new roll and then the hood looked glossier than the fenders that were done with the previous roll. Both those rolls came off the same pallet order as well. One was considerable waster of time to use and install.
  7. Im talking about shop environment that isnt climate controlled. Asking about install techniques that I may not know about. We got it done, but it was just a bit more complex being so hot I know to stay hydrated and take breaks.
  8. Shop is not climate controlled. What are some tips you guys have? Cutting and trimming was a botch, the film was rubbery. Weeding was a paint 10 min after it sat in the shop, which had to be 95 degrees today. Edges wouldn't go down very easy, even with letting them sit. As I said, rubbery feel to the film and very stretchy. Suntek film
  9. I asm having all sorts of hazy film issues with my recent 10 rolls of suntek in the past few weeks. like the outer edges are very hazy, and then this last rolls, its like 20" of one side is hazy. Sure heating helps for the most part, but thats extra work, I dont like working harder
  10. I talked with a couple other installers...they both said the same thing, Fees were too high, so they all bulk everything but the bumper (tossing in the headlights and side mirrors as well.) The film waste is less than the fees when its all said and done. I do agree, DAP is the easiest to use though, which is why you have to pay to play
  11. Ill put it to the test next week, thank you
  12. where is the best place to pick one up? tried having it weed onto a table, but its a cutting table and the cut marks allows the film to get stuck and jam up I have the fc7000 graphtec
  13. yeah, thats what its coming to... last month was 1700 in fees
  14. jeff, I use suntek film mostly, on occassion Xpel. Dap is the easiest to use, but I guess if I took the time to learn trucut better, then I could say the same for it. Im just pissed that 1000 of profit was eaten up, when trucut is just 100 per month, unlimited cuts.
  15. Is there a different pricing structure for different people? I was told of another company who has like $17 dollar DAP fees, where I am paying about 60 for a full front, give or take... Last month my fees were throught he roof at over 1000 bucks and now I have added trucut to save some of that money in the bank. But, what are other options in order to reduce the costs?