Exact-Oh

As long as the glass is tempered, there is zero risk of thermal breakage, however, dark, highly absorptive, film products pose a risk for seal failure, tempered and or annealed.
 
Usually, the factory dark units have the dark glass layer to the exterior and a clear layer as the inner layer; reversing that structure using film has higher risks.
 

By the way, it's nice to see you, hope you've been well.  

Whenever asked to match, I'd tell them it will not match. You can't even match if you knew the film since it varies from roll to roll and even from side to side on the same piece of film. Just say you can get the shade close but there will always be a slight color difference. 
 
As far as the dual pane, I'm probably wrong, but I think they are so small the risk of thermal fracture is low. 
 
 

Bad news.  BMW stopped using their typical top panel clips starting in 2020 on the 3- series at least, requiring a full panel removal. 
 
I'm not sure about 2019 models yet, but I own a 2018, and that car has the top clips we all know and love. 
 
For the 2020, there are 2 screws to remove; one behind the door handle and one under the arm rest (no need to remove the arm rest,  it's hard to see underneath there).
 
The perimeter clips are what I call the 'VW' style clips, except for one standard clip.   They're the 2- stage panel clips that must be popped out before reassembling the panel on the door. 
 
Take care on the brake light,  that's like earlier models with the cover popping down, starting in the rear, and the lamp itself has clips on each side, close to the glass, that must be slid out towards the side, away from the lamp. 
 
Simple car still, but I'll be missing the old top panel clips, negating the requirement to pull the panels. 
 

Bad news.  BMW stopped using their typical top panel clips starting in 2020 on the 3- series at least, requiring a full panel removal. 
 
I'm not sure about 2019 models yet, but I own a 2018, and that car has the top clips we all know and love. 
 
For the 2020, there are 2 screws to remove; one behind the door handle and one under the arm rest (no need to remove the arm rest,  it's hard to see underneath there).
 
The perimeter clips are what I call the 'VW' style clips, except for one standard clip.   They're the 2- stage panel clips that must be popped out before reassembling the panel on the door. 
 
Take care on the brake light,  that's like earlier models with the cover popping down, starting in the rear, and the lamp itself has clips on each side, close to the glass, that must be slid out towards the side, away from the lamp. 
 
Simple car still, but I'll be missing the old top panel clips, negating the requirement to pull the panels. 
 

Milwaukee Tool is making various 12V and 18V LED work lights that are so bright they hurt your eyes to look at without film in between.
 
Some with magnetic bases, and all with fully rechargable batteries, the same as their tools.

The braid must be trimmed around.  It will leave a line as long as the braid on the sides.  Just paint that or fill with vinyl.  
 
As for the shock mount.  You can remove it and trim around the hole in the glass,,,, but the trick is putting it back on.
If the gasket part of the mount grabs to much film before it it FULLY CURED, then it will twist the film as you go to tighten the mount back.
My suggestion (if you have never done one of these)  would be to waste a piece of film and tint the whole glass best you can with the mounts in place, then remove that piece and use it as your pattern for the final install. 
This will help you with the final install to know what to look for as trouble areas.   
 

I'm not superstitious either, but I have taught to never, never put the box of film back on the shelf after everything is cut, before everything is fully installed.Seems like every damn time I do that, something screws up.

I'm not superstitious either, but I have taught to never, never put the box of film back on the shelf after everything is cut, before everything is fully installed.Seems like every damn time I do that, something screws up.

I'm not superstitious either, but I have taught to never, never put the box of film back on the shelf after everything is cut, before everything is fully installed.Seems like every damn time I do that, something screws up.

These cars are cake to tint. The only issues I had with mine today is the Landau roof. I never understood the point of these. It's just that factory option for people pissed off at tinters or something. They totally limit visiblilty, and in harsh winters, they hold moisture and salt and rot the roof.
All of the gaskets are removable without pulling the panels. These kinda remind me of the Taurus or the BMW, with the trim around the top three edges of the window, but on these, the gasket isn't embedded under the plastic as far. Just becareful, 'cause the rubbers have metal in them, and they're easy to bend. I double cut, and it seemed as though the glass on the left side was 1/4" longer than the glass on the right side.
With the Landau roof, the quarter windows in the back doors have to be cut on the inside, and the back is a bear to shrink. I basically marked where to cut the film with a Sharpie, and cut it on the bench. Shrinking the back glass, I shifted the film up, shrunk the bottom, then shifted it down, and shrunk the top. It sucked not knowing if the film would fit before installation, and I had to do a lot of shrinking after installation.

Funny. Eight and a half years later, and my own comment on this car helped out today.
I don't do a while lot of caddies, and I couldn't remember if the panels just pulled back and exposed to gaskets, and I was afraid to wrench on them being an eight year old car. I did a 2002 STS R&R as my first job today (yuck), and those just pulled back, so I was hoping.