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About DynamicATL

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  1. So once again, besides quoting the TSER, how do you give the customer tangible proof there is a difference? Yes, a heat lamp helps demonstrate the IR difference BUT since you feel Infrared Heat more, they will also notice a difference in their vehicle. How do you do that with HP film? It feels almost identical on a heat lamp as standard dyed films and you can't feel a difference in the vehicle. It is not like flat glass where you can measure it by energy savings. Basically, think of it from a consumers perspective not from a tinters. With that being said, I think I will retire from TD. It is just the same threads/topics over and over again plus too many tinters on here that still think it is 1990.
  2. Exactly! As I stated before, "Just throwing a number at a customer and hope they believe it."
  3. It is part of doing business no matter the industry. There are always wins and loses.
  4. HP is not the entry-level option most shops carry...it is typically an upgrade. HP films can disappear and there will still be a lesser priced option for automotive. Basically, there is no tangible reason to upgrade from a basic color stable film to HP. Just throwing a number at a customer and hope they believe it. Anyways, I think I will move on since you still missed my point of the previous post.
  5. So you completely missed the point of my post.
  6. It is pretty simple, IR is the heat that you feel more of since it penetrates deeper into the skin. So a customer will feel more of a difference with a high IR film both on the heat lamp and the vehicle. So ideally you want a film with a good TSER along with a high IR rejection. I've ran standard dyed, HP, basic Ceramic, and high IR Ceramic films on my vehicles and I feel cooler with the higher IR films. We dropped the HP option years ago and would never offer it again since there is no value to the customer. I can see HP films fading away in the future as old school tinters retire. In the end, install the film you feel comfortable with no matter the type. Just know that you will be losing some potential customers to the competition since these type of films are in high demand. Being booked up for 3 weeks is great, but being booked up for 3 weeks while charging double your current HP price is much better.
  7. I can't say I noticed VW specifically but I see plenty of newer vehicles with failed film in GA. If it is bubbling then most likely is cheap film. If it is just faded, I have seen brands like Suntek show fading in 4 years in GA. Also, could be Florida vehicles that have a combination of a lot of shops using cheap film and the harsh climate.
  8. I like to say anything is possible, but I haven't seen one yet. Once film is exposed to the air, you are going to get something on there. Not to mention film can come with specs from the manufacturer. We let the customer know real world expectations straight from the jump. If they insist they have received or can receive a perfect tint job, we let them know we are not the shop for them. Then once they find that shop to please bring the vehicle to us once it dries so we can point out all the imperfections. Only had two people take me up on it and both times were embarrassed when we found over 10 problems each job. It is like when someone comes in with a new vehicle and they insist their vehicle is perfect because it is new. Cool, let's go walk the car together then their jaw drops when we point out scratches, defects in paint, scratches on glass, etc. I love walking the Tesla Model 3 since it has the worst quality paint job I've ever seen from a manufacturer.
  9. 3M Crystalline in the 20/40 shades, also believe some of the Global films have a brownish hue. Some vehicles come with brownish glass so you could just be seeing that or the combination of the two.
  10. Absolutely, not everyone is going to want to pay for a full wrap. I just don't see the point of paying a few hundred dollars to still have a good portion of your front-end exposed from a personal perspective. It is like someone only doing sunblock on their nose but let the rest of their face get burned. I wished I took a photo but we had an Acura MDX in the shop today that had a partial PPF removed on the hood/fenders. Now part of his hood looks brand new while the rest looks extremely faded.
  11. To this day I've never shook a homeowners hand before or after the job.
  12. I can give some advice but would probably be wrong. 🤣 I do the complete front clip on my vehicles with wrapped edges plus the side mirrors and door cups. I honestly don't see the point in doing partial installs.
  13. Our goal is to complete a vehicle in 2 hours or less on all cars/trucks/suvs. We found this is our sweet spot to ensure we are turning out top-quality work and not rushing/stressing anyone which keeps everyone safer. We usually finish a little early and on some easier vehicles 30-45 minutes earlier. That extra time is great for cleaning the area, prepping for the next vehicle, or just taking a nice break. It is all about finding the balance that works for you. Some people want to knock out 8+ cars a day which is great if you want to stack up and retire early. However, if your still doing it when you were older, you got to ask was all that extra work killing yourself worth it? I see plenty of tinters focus on speed but being fast does not equal a good tinter. The only tinter that we ever hired that was speed focused had been around since the late 80's and was by far the worst tinter I've even seen in person. Now if it is taking someone 4 hours, then yes, work on that speed. 🤣🤣 Does your shop have cameras? I would watch a video of you tinting to see your movement. It will be much easier this way to see if you're being efficient or are you touching an area too many times or too much walking around. Like do you set your spray bottle on a table that you have to walk back/forth too. Basically, see if there is anything in your process you can minimize or cutout.
  14. @Naples Tint Company uses it quite a bit along with Huper Optik.