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  1. Besides selling something, I haven't been active for the past year, so I guess you felt it was time to sneak this response in, hoping for no response from me. Well, thanks to someone reaching out to me, ding ding ding, I'm back! I could respond in multiple ways, but I will keep to the simple facts since I don't want a back and forth about it. In fact, any further responses about the topic will be ignored by me. I'd rather keep living my best life. So without further ado... Nope, selling window film that fails and then refusing to warranty the bad film is how rumors get started. I personally never contacted you to warranty out window film; I decided to take the hit. It was other dealers that came here stating you refused to warranty failed film. I wasn't the first one to post about the failures, nor was I the last. You are correct; you can sell any film however you see fit without others knowing about it. However, you did start https://tintclub.com/ and were selling the film with an option to have no warranty for a lower price. You tried to hide the connection to you but made the mistake of listing your Flexfilm address on the website. As soon as people called you out, you removed the address from the website. As of right now, you still do not list an address on the website nor Facebook, Instagram, or Youtube. As far as saying you haven't had any warranty claims in the last 5 years, congrats!! Truly. However, you said the same thing years ago, back when you had warranty claims. Obviously, that is in the past, and hopefully, you've ironed out the previous issues. You could be delivering one of the best lines of the film right now; I have zero idea. Nope, I do not know it all about anything. I actually left the forum since I felt I couldn't contribute anything besides repetitive responses. Negative Nancy, really? I would have used pessimistic but to each their own. Also, nope. Luckily, I still have emails from back then to confirm we bought the film from 2012 to 2014. Before that, we contracted a window tinter to work at our shop, taking a percentage, but film selection (Suntek) was 100% up to them. The absolute lowest we ever charged for tinting a vehicle was $129, and that was with your film, EconoFlex, which came with a 5-year warranty from us. We did advertise on Craigslist though, back when it was free...they charge $3-5 a post now, isn't that crazy?! Now, the interesting thing is you stated you sold us ASWF and Nexfil. The only film we ever purchased from you in Lilburn was Flexfilm, back when it came in plain white boxes with a label on the end stating which Flexfilm. So did you admit you were doing a bait and switch? I know memory is the first thing to go, but I would leave out details like that. The memory joke is my response to your "half way intelligent" remark. Nothing personal. The saying goes, "If you've got haters, that means you're doing something right"...you can use that in future marketing. I am glad you've made it past those dark days and have found success in the window film industry. With the videos, you did great marketing, but you also approached the window film manufacturing business from a different angle that helped some window tinters grow. I, too, have moved on, quite literally, from the window tint forum. Your response brought me back, a response that came almost 16 months after the last post on this thread. So you made it a relevant topic again, one that new members might read. I thought the topic was dead. BIG FACTS! I did work on toning down the wit as my response is meant to respond to some specifics and officially kill the subject from my POV. As stated before, I will not respond to any future responses. Leaving it be will be the only way to bury the subject truly. Good luck to you too. I hope you and your family are safe and healthy during this time as well.
  2. So once again, besides quoting the TSER, how do you give the customer tangible proof there is a difference? Yes, a heat lamp helps demonstrate the IR difference BUT since you feel Infrared Heat more, they will also notice a difference in their vehicle. How do you do that with HP film? It feels almost identical on a heat lamp as standard dyed films and you can't feel a difference in the vehicle. It is not like flat glass where you can measure it by energy savings. Basically, think of it from a consumers perspective not from a tinters. With that being said, I think I will retire from TD. It is just the same threads/topics over and over again plus too many tinters on here that still think it is 1990.
  3. Exactly! As I stated before, "Just throwing a number at a customer and hope they believe it."
  4. It is part of doing business no matter the industry. There are always wins and loses.
  5. HP is not the entry-level option most shops carry...it is typically an upgrade. HP films can disappear and there will still be a lesser priced option for automotive. Basically, there is no tangible reason to upgrade from a basic color stable film to HP. Just throwing a number at a customer and hope they believe it. Anyways, I think I will move on since you still missed my point of the previous post.
  6. It is pretty simple, IR is the heat that you feel more of since it penetrates deeper into the skin. So a customer will feel more of a difference with a high IR film both on the heat lamp and the vehicle. So ideally you want a film with a good TSER along with a high IR rejection. I've ran standard dyed, HP, basic Ceramic, and high IR Ceramic films on my vehicles and I feel cooler with the higher IR films. We dropped the HP option years ago and would never offer it again since there is no value to the customer. I can see HP films fading away in the future as old school tinters retire. In the end, install the film you feel comfortable with no matter the type. Just know that you will be losing some potential customers to the competition since these type of films are in high demand. Being booked up for 3 weeks is great, but being booked up for 3 weeks while charging double your current HP price is much better.
  7. I can't say I noticed VW specifically but I see plenty of newer vehicles with failed film in GA. If it is bubbling then most likely is cheap film. If it is just faded, I have seen brands like Suntek show fading in 4 years in GA. Also, could be Florida vehicles that have a combination of a lot of shops using cheap film and the harsh climate.
  8. I like to say anything is possible, but I haven't seen one yet. Once film is exposed to the air, you are going to get something on there. Not to mention film can come with specs from the manufacturer. We let the customer know real world expectations straight from the jump. If they insist they have received or can receive a perfect tint job, we let them know we are not the shop for them. Then once they find that shop to please bring the vehicle to us once it dries so we can point out all the imperfections. Only had two people take me up on it and both times were embarrassed when we found over 10 problems each job. It is like when someone comes in with a new vehicle and they insist their vehicle is perfect because it is new. Cool, let's go walk the car together then their jaw drops when we point out scratches, defects in paint, scratches on glass, etc. I love walking the Tesla Model 3 since it has the worst quality paint job I've ever seen from a manufacturer.
  9. 3M Crystalline in the 20/40 shades, also believe some of the Global films have a brownish hue. Some vehicles come with brownish glass so you could just be seeing that or the combination of the two.
  10. Absolutely, not everyone is going to want to pay for a full wrap. I just don't see the point of paying a few hundred dollars to still have a good portion of your front-end exposed from a personal perspective. It is like someone only doing sunblock on their nose but let the rest of their face get burned. I wished I took a photo but we had an Acura MDX in the shop today that had a partial PPF removed on the hood/fenders. Now part of his hood looks brand new while the rest looks extremely faded.
  11. To this day I've never shook a homeowners hand before or after the job.
  12. I can give some advice but would probably be wrong. 🤣 I do the complete front clip on my vehicles with wrapped edges plus the side mirrors and door cups. I honestly don't see the point in doing partial installs.
  13. Our goal is to complete a vehicle in 2 hours or less on all cars/trucks/suvs. We found this is our sweet spot to ensure we are turning out top-quality work and not rushing/stressing anyone which keeps everyone safer. We usually finish a little early and on some easier vehicles 30-45 minutes earlier. That extra time is great for cleaning the area, prepping for the next vehicle, or just taking a nice break. It is all about finding the balance that works for you. Some people want to knock out 8+ cars a day which is great if you want to stack up and retire early. However, if your still doing it when you were older, you got to ask was all that extra work killing yourself worth it? I see plenty of tinters focus on speed but being fast does not equal a good tinter. The only tinter that we ever hired that was speed focused had been around since the late 80's and was by far the worst tinter I've even seen in person. Now if it is taking someone 4 hours, then yes, work on that speed. 🤣🤣 Does your shop have cameras? I would watch a video of you tinting to see your movement. It will be much easier this way to see if you're being efficient or are you touching an area too many times or too much walking around. Like do you set your spray bottle on a table that you have to walk back/forth too. Basically, see if there is anything in your process you can minimize or cutout.
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