DynamicATL

We've seen it on new vehicles, polishing it should remove it. Definitely not the shops fault.

If you look at your 1st photo, u can see the XR Black and CS Black are both charcoal when compared to the XR Plus. It still might have hint of blue but not very noticeable. Same way F1 Pinnacle has a hint of green the last time I checked which you did not notice. CS is a basic dyed film, heat rejection is minor.

XR Black in the middle is going to be the normal charcoal color similar to Llumar/F1.

Check out this mobile tint job we are replacing! Apparently, this was the tinter's 5th attempt on the job.

If XR Black, IRX has a higher IR heat rejection. If XR Plus, it has a higher IR heat rejection. However, focus on which shop you feel will do the better job. Reviews are a great starting point, but stopping by the shop to see some vehicles in the parking lot is better. Also, see which shop seems more confident about their work.

Never had it on a Tesla but we did have it in the same spot on a couple of G37s. The bottom rubber is most likely hitting the edge of the film and peeling it up. If cutting the film right at the rubber guide, what Dano said will most likely be the solution. Only other option is to tuck more film behind the rubber.

If it does not have to be adhered by adhesive, you can try static cling. I do this for my driving pass. Add sticker to the cling and the cling will hold onto the the tint and still be easily removable if needed. Of coarse, assuming the sticker will stick to the static cling.

We used to use it on the film once we completed a job. It gives it an extremely smooth feel when you glide your hand across it. So would help with friction. You just wipe it on like a glass cleaner.

Llumar and 3M Ceramic IR will all be a neutral charcoal at 50% whereas 3M Crystalline will be a touch brown.

I had a Jeep Compass that metered 30% on the privacy glass. I was in disbelief it was so light.

I shot this video in a customer vehicle while dropping it off to them down the street. I can easily say there is no tint on the windshield, and no one would question it. What is actually on there? Llumar CTX 30%.

Now watch this video with Llumar AIR 80 on the windshield and CTX 35 on the side windows. Hella difference simply because it is a gloomy day.

I assume it has more to do with the factory privacy glass since you added a 70% over it. Most 70% films are going to have a bluish hue but are so light, it is barely noticeable. Some of the Global tinters can chime in on the color but knowing year/make/model vehicle might help.

I would take it back to the tinter to redo it for the light gap or at least to stick the edge down better. The longer you wait, the harder to remove if getting redone and the adhesive will dry up from that lifted section.

On a side note, this reminded me of when Photosync came out with transitional automotive film around 2012. Everyone was talking about it on forums like it was some magical film. Of course, they ditched that technology sometime before 2020 because it was all hype with a limited transition lifespan. CoolVu came out with their transitional film around that time with much wider transitions. This post made me look them up, and within a few years, it seems they are no longer offering it for automotive applications, only flat glass. Plus, opening franchises instead of pushing for more dealers.

There is no such thing. Window film naturally looks clearer/lighter when looking out versus outside looking inside. However, the darker the film, the less visibility you will have looking out. Looking at one of his videos, the side window looks pretty clear because it is a sunny day, which allows it to look lighter since there is more light outside of the vehicle. The same way you can do 15% on your home but at night with interior lights, it looks like there is virtually no tint. Also, when looking at his video, you can easily see the side windows are much darker than the windshield when he pans around the interior. So no magic, no new technology, just a sales gimmick for an Amazon-quality film with some idiots believing you can install a 5% film but have 90% clarity looking out. Regarding Carbon Ceramic, I do not know of a quality brand that makes it. Many cheaper films add Carbon to their Ceramic films to make them color-stable. Adding Carbon is much cheaper for small manufacturers to make a color-stable film versus the standard dyed process. Only the big boys (Eastman/Garware/3M) have the money and technology to use the dyed method to make a truly color-stable film. If these small manufacturers tried this, their films would turn purple and fade quickly.

I would contact the mobile tinter to get it redone or removed/refunded if they don't feel they can do any better. Can a mobile job come out clean? Yes, especially if they are covered like in a garage. Is there a higher risk that a mobile job won't come out clean? Yes, you are just exposed to many more elements that cause debris in the film. Skill can only take you so far in a poor installation environment. It really comes down to pure luck if the mobile job will be clean or not.

56 minutes ago, Dano said:

Mobile...Rayno....about says it all. 

This says it all fr...those 2 strikes are all you need.

Not sure what is up with the Plexus shortage but the one below is another option.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2BBHQQ/

If it's been installed for some time, then most likely, the issue is your eyesight, especially if you're over 40. Your close vision is the most affected (hence people needing readers), but also with glare, etc. So you still could have great vision in ideal circumstances (doctor's office) but not in more severe driving conditions. If you recently added the tint, the reduction of visibility might be the issue. Even though 70% is pretty clear, you are still losing an additional 30% of visibility.

I wear contacts, my fiancee wears glasses but she has overall better vision than me. She only does 90% on the windshield since she felt 70% impacted her night driving way too much. I do 35-40% on the windshield and have perfect clarity even at night. Unless it is pouring down, I typically do not use my wipers.

One thing that will help you is adding Yellow LEDs to your fog lamps. Yellow cuts through the rain and fog better than any whiter light. Below is our shop vehicle with only fog lights on.
 

Easy truck.

Our pass charges the same rate but adds $1 per toll if it has to pull your info from your plate.

I have an issue with one of my cars with Peach Pass (express lane pass), which is not reading properly, but I don't think the film is causing this issue. All my other cars have Ceramic or Crystalline with no issues same for all past vehicles. This car has an IR emitter for night vision directly above where I placed it, so I think interference from that may be causing my issue. I will be relocating it to confirm. I would relocate it to see if that helps or could just be a defective transponder.

Blinds/curtains will be the best route. You would have to add a dark window film to reduce the sun a good amount but not eliminate it. Anything darker will be extremely noticeable from the outside. Anything lighter will not be drastic enough to make a difference.

We run our hand across the glass since you can feel the coating. Basically, if it does not feel like normal glass, assume it has the coating.

The spots I marked with the red arrows and the others that look like that are water bubbles that could take up to 1 month to dry, depending on the film/location. The rest of the stuff looks like the window is dirty on the outside and needs to be wiped off.

We did a couple of new M2s and M240i but did not have that issue. I would get a bottle of  Plexus Plastic Cleaner. It is like a polish for the window film that makes it super smooth feeling. It might eliminate the noise due to the reduced friction.