CnCCustoms

Not with a true carbon film... a real carbon no-dye film will reject more heat.  Me personally- why add more lines in the shop?  Deep dyed for an entry level film. Gets 30% of my customers. Hybrid HP has a little better heat rejection. That takes care of about 20% of my customers needs. Then the other 50% in ceramic.  I just don’t see the need in keeping every vlt in more than 3 lines. Especially when MOST manufacturers “carbon” film is a catchy name. 

When it’s super hot. I’ve got my kegger with reg solution... if it’s not enough slip even with summer mixture I have a hand sprayer with a shit load of dawn in the water. I spray the window with that. Then spray film with my normal mix. Usually does the trick

That online quote is way off...most "Carbon" films are dyed.  The truest one I know is 3M CS because it uses their patented carbon polyester.  Most others that have Carbon in the name is just a color stable window film.  Even Suntek, which IMO made the term popular, is a dyed window film with very minor amount of Carbon in it.  Suntek Carbon also scratches more than any film I have ever seen.  Carbon is just another way to color the window film versus dyed.  Since Eastman/Garware are the only two manufacturers that can successfully make a 4th gen dyed film, the smaller manufacturers are going the Carbon route to keep the cost down and to make it as stable as they can for the production cost.  With that being said, put Rayno Carbon Ceramic against Global (dyed) in Florida...my money will be on Global lasting longer.  Ceramic is also not necessarily the highest quality window film...this boils down to the specific brand/line of film.  There are plenty of cheap Ceramic films that fade to clear, turn purple, etc...also performance is all over the map depending on the film.  Most Ceramic films contain dye, I only know of 3M Ceramic and Huper Ceramic (both used in the automotive field) that contains no dyes.  This is why they have a slightly silver/reflective appearance.

Wrapped in Global QDP Ceramic. Also installed 4” lift. Wheels and Tires. Along with 2 sedans not worth mentioning. And 3 sets of roll ups to match

Wrapped in Global QDP Ceramic. Also installed 4” lift. Wheels and Tires. Along with 2 sedans not worth mentioning. And 3 sets of roll ups to match

Funny thing about that is.  15 years ago when sun Gard was actually Sun Gard.  I used more of the shadow line than any film since.  It was flawless. My dad still has a truck I tinted 15 years ago with shadow 38. And it looks like it was done last week!   But when they went under and then resurfaced under madico. All sun gard lines went downhill 

Global or solar fx I use daily. I would suggest using the 40 or 42% though. The 35 in those both have a little too much Haze for me. You might could get away with the 32 for legal for you but I'm not sure. 

When I have a helper I generally pull the vehicle in they soap up the back glass I cut it and start shrinking. As I'm doing that they pull seals and prep sides. I'll cut the passenger side and start installing those. Once I'm done with that back glass gets hung they prep and I install. Then work my way on to the driver's side. They install seals or panel on other side and begin touch up. 

Here we go.

Go Global.  I would stay away from snake oil salesmen = Flexfilm 
Or get Llumar  but you really can't go wrong with those two.  I would say global is priced better But being with Llumar the name will sale its self.  

I can’t speak for Flexfilm.... but MOST companies that offer a “carbon” are selling a film with carbon in its name.... I may be wrong but I think there’s only like 2 true carbon films on the market

No the ammonia doesn't bother the adhesive side only scratch coat side. I actually add a little more into it along with some super glue to help it stick better.

The proper term for what you are describing is called pocket shrinking. In the old days we wet shrank like we dry shrink now starting at the point of the finger and working towards edge of film. Pocket shrinking helps control the finger by starting at the bottom first and you shrink it quicker with better results. 

We do 2-3 windshields every day... for the longest time they would bite me...... a lot of it is a mind f*** because “it’s and windshield and needs to be perfect”. Hammer the center top and bottom down. Use a gloved hand as @jh812 said on the bottom corners. And a light stretch method on the top corners. Leave excess to pull on. Works every time

Seen plenty of Rayno failure photos including from a dealer in GA which is hot but far from the harshest around.  Could be first generation stuff which has been improved or could be 1-2 particular lines.  Either way too many red flags for me, but from what I hear Solar Free is having their fair share of failures.  I would skip all of these newer cheap companies and go with someone that has a proven track record.  SolarFX, Express, Global which are all priced right.

I hope so cuz I just used 3M CS and that is a lot of film to be disappointed with if he means 740 rolls. Lol

2018 4Runner Wrapped in SolarFX IRFX 38/20. Also got 3.5” Lift. Wheels. Tires. N-Fab Bars and BlackOut valance with Blackout emblems. 

Blue max is great... try the clear max it’s a little softer. But whether you use those or orange crush or anything related... before each job take a white scrub pad and a little glass cleaner and scuff the edge.  All but guarantee it to stop your scratches.  Also if you push it into side seals. Wipe it off before your next pass

Follow your dreams, this life ain't worth living if you can't enjoy every day. 
 
If I can give you any advice don't get stuck on one method of installing. So many times I see tinters only stick to the first way they learned. I've learned a multitude of ways to install film and I utilize them all. Every vehicle is different so it's good to have different variations. 
 
You'll get frustrated, you'll cuss, and want to quit. That happens with learning anything new though. You'll figure out pretty soon if it's something you want to pursue, or if it's something you just once tried. 
 
Good luck!

Long story short(er). Used to work for this large dealership... Did their accessories and Tint work on the side. Brought them home literally every single night. Let them order and stock their own film. Cut prices.. went out full time for my self years past everything was peachy.  Recently they send literally all the Tint work to the $99 guy down the road. Call me to fix screw ups. Stopped  calling for spray in liners-also to another cheapo down the road-also call me for screw ups. Other than that in months and months the only calls I get is for the crap no one else knows how to do... in depth audio/video or esp remote starts on new vehicles. As bad as all that is they screwed me out of a grand at the beginning of the year!  As long as I’ve been doing this I thought I’d protected myself from this sorta thing!  Well finally had it and in a bit of a rage got a call from them wanting... you guess remote start. Told em I had no desire to do it nor the desire to conduct ANY business with them in the future. Got calls from management- expressed my many concerns and by the end of the conversation told em to F*** OFF!  Did I screw up guys?  Honestly?  I stay 7-10 booked out through the entire year and further at Christmas and tax season...  has anyone else hit a point where it wasn’t worth it with a dealership?

Long story short(er). Used to work for this large dealership... Did their accessories and Tint work on the side. Brought them home literally every single night. Let them order and stock their own film. Cut prices.. went out full time for my self years past everything was peachy.  Recently they send literally all the Tint work to the $99 guy down the road. Call me to fix screw ups. Stopped  calling for spray in liners-also to another cheapo down the road-also call me for screw ups. Other than that in months and months the only calls I get is for the crap no one else knows how to do... in depth audio/video or esp remote starts on new vehicles. As bad as all that is they screwed me out of a grand at the beginning of the year!  As long as I’ve been doing this I thought I’d protected myself from this sorta thing!  Well finally had it and in a bit of a rage got a call from them wanting... you guess remote start. Told em I had no desire to do it nor the desire to conduct ANY business with them in the future. Got calls from management- expressed my many concerns and by the end of the conversation told em to F*** OFF!  Did I screw up guys?  Honestly?  I stay 7-10 booked out through the entire year and further at Christmas and tax season...  has anyone else hit a point where it wasn’t worth it with a dealership?

Good for you!

Nah, let them piss of their customers by sending it to a shitty shop.  Down the road they might crawl back begging, then if you decide to help, raise your price even higher.  Gotta pay to play.  

used to do all the dealers in my area til a mobile tinter came along.  never really needed them but i did the work at a discount(this was years ago)
so the mobile guy starts working with the dealers and as i find out that they gave him work, i would call them and explain that our deal is now off.
now when they call, i charge retail PLUS.  the plus is whatever i am feeling that day or time.  also, stopped taking POs so never get stuck or wait for money.
 
great to have the upper hand.
 
i love when they tell me that the only reason i am doing the work is that they were desperate to get one done and that i'm too expensive.  hahaha

Good for you!  Seriously, was there any time in the past where us tinters called the shots and made them bend over?? F’ dealers!!! Who needs who?? They need us and we dont need them!  Next time anybody calls me and says, “ i work for a dealer and can give you lots of work”....I’ll say 2 words....f’ you!!! Click!!!