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highplains

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Posts posted by highplains

  1. :yeah

    or a sharpie on an old liner works to make a template as well or a button under the film to keep your blade tip off the glass if you're doing a back window works well too.

     

    On 12/27/2023 at 5:24 AM, outtydad said:

    What is your technique if you can't cut on the glass?

    I was specifically referring to using a blade to scrape the inside of the glass for prep/sticker removal more so than cutting your patterns, if you do you're in for a very bad day. Leave the stickers and use a gentle scrub pad (I use the blue scotchbrite) to prep.

  2. On 7/31/2023 at 12:53 PM, DynamicATL said:

    We've looked into it multiple times and even got some samples, but we always come to the same conclusion, not worth it. It might be an option if your vehicle has a very expensive windshield. Otherwise, it will cost you just as much or more than new glass to swap this out every year, not to mention the required maintenance. It would be a great product if a brand resisted wiper scratching and had superior optical clarity. IMO, it is more of a cash grab for the shop than actual value to the consumer.

    :yep this was my conclusion when looking into it as well. It's a great idea, especially for my area, but the performance, longevity, and value just isn't there yet for your average daily driver. 

  3. *Has the factory UV coating on the glass - do not use a blade on the glass*

     

    Overall an easy car for both tint and ppf.

     

    Remove the cover plate behind the handle to expose a single phillips screw. After removing the screw the door panel tops can be popped loose and the lower seal removed. The back glass is an easy shrink, headrests are non removable and the roofline is low so access is a little tight if you're a taller individual like myself. 

  4. As far as the best heat rejection in the lightest shade you're probably still looking at 3M Crystalline. In terms of scratch resistance to a dog I don't know that any of them are going to be great long term. I can tell you that in my experience with various films from 3M, Suntek, Xpel, Llumar, and Global that the Global Ceramic film has the most robust scratch resistant coating of them all followed closely by the Xpel. As an installer I've gotten downright abusive with that Global and not had it scratch. 

  5. On 3/6/2023 at 12:12 AM, envemo_356c_no119 said:

    I have clear glass on a 356C recreation and would like to recreate this German factory green glass look.

    It needs to look original.. UV Ceramic protection..
    Project is   envemo_356c_no119   on Instagram

     

    Does anyone have experience with llumar air blue 80?  Is it as dark at the photo posted below?

    Thanks in advance for your help..

    Envemo Glass.jpg

    The Suntek CIR 70% and 60% both have that kind of coke bottle green hue to them

  6. On 3/4/2023 at 3:26 PM, DynamicATL said:

    Both great films, Formula One will have the more accurate IR rejection numbers since they measure across the whole 780-2500nm spectrum. XPEL only measures at a singular wavelength, 1025nm. So across the whole spectrum, that number is much lower; otherwise, they would advertise it.

     

    On a side note, it is funny how many people on here used to trip about 3M rating their IR rejection from 900-1000nm but I don't see any posts complaining about XPEL or Global only metering at 1025nm. 🤣

    Hey @DynamicATL :waving long time no see. Hope everything is going well. The Xpel spec sheet I've got lists IR Rejection across 780-1700nm range as well as the narrower 900-1000nm range, never seen any documentation specific to 1025nm.

  7. 18 hours ago, mistergoober said:

    Mainly looking for great heat rejection as well as what's going to hold up well 

    XPEL shops both quoted their film as having 88% heat rejection, but looking at TSER that looks like BS. Comparing a 30% VLT, looks like 57% XPEL, 56% Pinnacle, so no real difference.

    The 88% number is the IR rejection measurement, while not total BS it does start to set an unreasonable expectation and is definitely not the number I would sell it off of.

     

    In terms of advantages to the Xpel film it does offer a more robust scratch resistant coating than many other films I've used. I made the switch to them as an installer more than three years ago and have been extremely happy with the quality and performance of their film. I can't speak to the FormulaOne film as I haven't tried it myself.

  8. Has anyone used the EWF HP All Metal film? I've got a customer that I had tinted a car for with 3M Black Chrome years ago that's looking for something similar on his new ride. Getting more Black Chrome from 3M is out of the question so I was eyeballing the Express offering as a possible solution. If you have any pictures or insights I'd appreciate it 

  9. It's hard to say, you'd need to check with the shop. They may have cut you a deal since you were doing both at the same time, or they may have made a mistake and undercharged you. Regardless I wouldn't lose sleep over it. As far as the strip being done out of ceramic or non-ceramic again I wouldn't worry too much about it as it won't make a noticeable difference with the full windshield having been done in ceramic. 

  10. On 11/20/2022 at 9:38 AM, Dano said:

    CS is the bottom end used mainly to satisfy cheap a$$

    That's not accurate in reference to 3M CS. It's their mid tier film and a true carbon film with tser numbers that are fairly comparable to lulu ctx. At the time I dropped 3M for Xpel the price of it had risen to within a few dollars of what I was getting Xpel Ceramic for. 3M's entry level films are the Obsidian and FX lines and then they have another dirt cheap line that I can't remember the name of. 

  11. 4 hours ago, Chilled said:

    On the topic of shrinking CS, just curious how close is it to Crystalline? CS has the thickness and the CR has the layers and probably hella thick.

    Night and day difference. CS is a very thin film that burns or creases easily, CR can smear the adhesive between the layers if not heated properly. CR isn't a particularly thick film either, it's about average really. I'm not familiar with how their CIR compares since I dropped 3M a couple months before they finally released it. As far as 3M films that have the logo stamp they do that on Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and the Crystalline, however there have been documented instances in the past of that being copied on the fake CR film some have gotten in the past. As far as shrinking goes in general it really does come down to practice and experience. Don't rush it, especially as someone just looking to learn the trade, impatience is your enemy in this business. Shrink the film slowly and really pay attention to how it reacts to the heat and you'll learn to "read" the film, for lack of a better way to put it. Experiment with the distance and angle of your heat gun and how that effects the film as it's shrinking, eventually you'll develop the technique that's going to work best for you. Starting out you're going to waste a lot of film, it is what it is and part of paying your dues so to speak. You can get a shorter roll of film from express window films that's good quality and more affordable to learn on if you're serious about pursuing this. 

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