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highplains

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Everything posted by highplains

  1. I track everything as it's cut so that I can cost out the appropriate amount of film used on each vehicle. I also use a plotter so it's easy to track it that way.
  2. That's correct. Your best bet on the IR is to check with them to see what's typical for it to meter after installation and go from there or see if they have a vehicle on site you can look at with either film installed.
  3. 3M depends entirely on the line in how that works out. I can tell you from experience that the Color Stable 35 installed typically is going to meter between 27% and 30%, I haven't used the FXHP but based on my experience with the FXPM I'd expect it to be the same as Color Stable. The Ceramic IR was released just after I stopped carrying 3M so I cant say for sure but that should be the new system where the 30% *should* put you in where you want to be. The installer should be able to steer you in the right direction for sure though.
  4. Suntek has a bronze film, don't recall if it's just dyed or metalized though.
  5. Not familiar with that model unfortunately. Have you tried reaching out to Graphtec?
  6. Just did one the other day and I was able to pull them still have the last little mark from the cut to my middle finger from the sharp plastic of the release. You have to hit the little button on the headrest itself so it folds forward and then you can hit the release on both posts to remove.
  7. I haven't had any issues today, though to be fair I've only cut one pattern so far today
  8. Being @Krumpers Solar Blinds why don't you tell us? Just make your pitch if you handle a product that you think we should be aware of instead of fishing for it.
  9. I've done two of my personal vehicles windshields in 80% and both still meter 70% or higher
  10. Between those two I'd take the Solar fx hands down. I've been running the solar fx ceramic on my Honda Pilot for about five years now and it looks as good today as the day I installed it. As far as color goes the solar fx is pretty neutral colored with a very slight brown/bronze hue, as far as the Suntek depends on which line of film the CXP is going to be the blackest of them and CIR has a green undertone but I noticed significant haze in the sample I tried. As far as scratch resistance goes in my experience the Suntek scratches extremely easily and the Solar FX you can get downright abusive with before it scratches. I've installed films from 3M, Llumar, Suntek, Solar FX, and Xpel. Xpel is my go to and what I install every day but I really don't have anything negative to say about solar fx.
  11. Hate to break it to you but all tint does that with polarized sunglasses and the right viewing angle, ceramic or not.
  12. No it isn't. The only way forward from that point is to either remove the rest of the coating entirely or replace the glass.
  13. As has been previously stated those distorted areas appear to be residual adhesive from a previous installation. As far as adhesive removal goes it can be accomplished either by chemical or mechanical means, depends on the installer, the window in question, and extent of the adhesive left behind. If you're otherwise happy with this film and installation, reach out to your installer and see what they recommend going forward. With every removal and reinstallation you increase your chances of having adverse issues such as scratches to the glass or water intrusion to the electronics. The model 3 has modules below each pillar that are notorious for having issues with water intrusion after tinting. Residual adhesive can be difficult to spot during the process because it's clear to start with and once wet all but disappears until it's too late. That said if it were my work I'd want to redo it just from a personal pride and quality standards standpoint, check with your installer. Also worth mentioning is that no installation is every going to be 100% perfect and after 7 rounds and still not being happy, windshield tint just may not be right for you on this vehicle. I say that with the caveat of not having seen any of the previous installations and given what I've seen come out of other shops I certainly can believe that they failed to meet even the most reasonable or loose standards for quality. Hope this helps @badluckmodel3
  14. Ive used both films and can unequivocally say that you should be happy with either of them, both great films and they are definitely not the same film. I've had the global on my pilot for about 5 years and it still looks as good as the day I installed it and performs as good as it looks. I've been installing Xpel for about 2 years now and have had no complaints or issues with the film. None of us can know 100% for sure if Garware is manufacturing the film for Xpel, I've heard the same rumors but they've never been confirmed by anyone who I would be willing to take at their word. Having been able to install and compare them side by side I can definitely say they are not the same film (there is a slight difference in both the top coat and thicknesses) but are both great films that I wouldn't hesitate to use on either my own vehicles or my customers.
  15. Xpel is a fairly neutral grey, both their XR Ceramic and CS Color Stable. If you're happy with the Suntek on your other vehicle their CXP line is a neutral grey as well although the Xpel will give you better clarity and scratch resistance hands down. A big thing to keep in mind is any existing color undertone to the front glass will impact the final appearance. I don't see many Hyundais in my area so I don't know off hand if that will be an issue for you or not off hand.
  16. I use a regular bath towel. It's cheap and effective.
  17. The hue isn't going to be noticeable from the outside, especially in those shades with a black interior, so I wouldn't worry about it clashing with the blue paint. It's more of an undertone that's noticeable when looking out from the inside, and even then it's pretty subtle for most films, not everyone is even going to notice it. I'm not a llumar dealer so I can't speak for those films in particular but I imagine that you'll probably be happy with any of them.
  18. I've been using mine for years and have never had an issue with them spraying plastic deposits. They do get some soap build up that will occasionally let loose and ruin your day if you don't clean them well enough frequently. I rinse mine every time and then once a week or so I hit them with higher pressure from the hose and a sprayer to break up the soap scum. Haven't had an issue since.
  19. More than likely there's a difference in your factory glass itself that's making the color appear different. Toyota/Lexus is notorious for using different glass in their vehicles over the years, from green to bronze to clear to reflective and in some cases a combination on the same vehicle. The late 90's and early 00's RX300 and Land Cruiser both come to mind as common examples still frequently seen on the road. While no one can rule out 100% the film being switched it is highly unlikely that they would've done it for that single window. I'll attach a picture of an old truck I did recently where the wing window on the driver's door was clear glass while the rest of the truck had solar green glass, the same film was used but you can see the color variation between the main roll up window and the wing window in the picture. In the pic it's fairly subtle but in person it's much more noticeable.
  20. While you're correct in that there is no perfect tint job, if you're not striving for perfection in every install you are doing yourself and your customers a severe disservice.
  21. That's excessive contamination and not acceptable in my opinion.
  22. How well does that clear plex hold up with regular/daily driven vehicles?
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