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About Dentpusher

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    Started self teaching in '87
  • Location
    Land of Oz
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    United States

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  1. I've been tinting a long time but have recently grown tired of my personal vehicle's windshields getting pitted and don't want to have the OE windows cut out at ~120k miles for a new one. Anyone have some material they are interested in moving as I don't want to buy a whole bunch just to have the balance sit on a shelf. I will want at least enough to do a couple vehicles. I'll have to get you dimensions. I was just wondering if there was someone interested. Thanks
  2. It looks like it will just tuck back up into run channel. Pull a little more out for better tuck into the corner. If it pops out again, you could add a small drop of urethane on the inside channel to hold it in place....or buy a new seal. In either case, correct the way it sits and tell customer "the rubber will have some memory, let it set a week or so to mold back to proper profile". Some times this helps.
  3. Yeah, look out for dirty, nasty black goop sealant that sticks out past rear glass moldings. That old glass has no black "cheat" border to hide the edges. If it's not a fresh "windows out" restore job, there will be tons of trash on the margins.
  4. Not to mention, if the film ever fails and you pull rear defroster lines because they become fragile.... but that never happens.
  5. I don't care WHAT the composition of the film is, like someone else said, it's all about TSER, PERIOD. Whether it reflects or absorbs the heat, it's about the rejection OF heat. What I will never understand is why people think HO is "great" for IGUs on flat glass. An absorbing film, like ceramic, can't convection cool because it's on an IGU so the heat will be radiated into the room. Ceramic IS non-reflective BUT you still have 4 glass surfaces that relect the light anyway so what if the film adds 2-4% reflectivity? No layman can tell a difference once installed. Heck, layman don't realize that lowE windows make the glass tinted and more reflective too... Especially on flat glass, save your money and use hybrid/reflective, bonus, safer for the glass too. Ceramic is a gimmick, IMO. However, a profitable one.
  6. Well, it's going on a white 4Runner so peel won't be super noticeable outside. Thanks for input. Anyone else?
  7. Alright, finally tracked down the tract that had the tractor (see what I did there?). I need 9 feet of 30" or I would buy 5 feet of 60" to keep things simple if you don't want to mess with cutting. Thanks much!
  8. I have a small job - MAYBE 10'x5' (I have to track down the location of the tractor for exact dimensions) that I would love to buy to avoid having the remaining film sit on my shelf for years. If you know of anyone who might have some, it would be greatly appreciated!
  9. I've seen that. Don't know how they can get the bottoms clean like that if they leave the sweep on. We have some dirt roads around these parts and the dust gets everywhere. Oh and I found a MUCH better deal on the shields:
  10. That's normal. It's kind of like fiber optics. The light enters the film/adhesive layer then kind of wraps around the humped up film and you see it because of the dark background of the defroster line. My
  11. Explain what you mean by "bottom loading". I haven't worked with other installers for so long, I may know technique but not the term.
  12. Used Carbon 35. NEED HELP! This is the 2nd of 2 tractors I did for the city. They didn't show me this one when I quoted them. It has an articulating mower on the other side and POLYCARB windows on the other side!!! I understand Madico no longer makes Blister Free. Any other suggestions? I read someone on here uses PPF as a base.... What about Anti-graffiti as base or possibly AeroGard from MMM or Lamin-X headlight film so IF/WHEN it blisters it can be pulled off with "no" residual adhesive and start over????
  13. I've never removed a door panel to tint. Now with improved methods, over shrinking bottom edge, and a set of these (I've used them for years, if I tuck and have an issue with a finger, I slide one of these in place to hold the seal off the glass so I can remove the water and dry the film with a heat gun from the inside or outside. I cut them into different lengths too. You can also preset them before you start and do most cars with one set. It only takes about a minute or 2 to put them in place prior to starting.
  14. Its' not gonna work on those dents. Too much pressure held down by the curve of the sheet metal there. You MAY get them smaller but you will also recrystallize the metal into the dent shape by basically heat treating it with the repeated heat/cool cycles making it harder for a real tech to repair. Leave it to a pro....