Super Dave

Not trying to be a fan boy but, we used FVD and TintTek  before DAP. I feel the DAP patterns are way better IMHO. But like Jeff said above, it is the patterns for the last couple model  years that i am referring to.

I’m in Houston, humidity is always a problem here. I tried the green tint slime for a while (per recommendation from mani). Never used the orange, though. Last I was using it, I was at 6-7 oz per gallon and still having trouble sliding the film. Oh, and we filter our water (not distilled) so if you forgot to empty a bottle or tank before you left that day, it smelled horrible the next day!  I’ve read that it’s because of the waters minerals breaking the slime down, and if you use distilled that doesn’t happen. Idk for sure, just too much trouble for me, went back to my original (joy) slip. I also use baby shampoo for a few things I install.

I haven't seen anyone mention this yet, so if you didn't know or haven't heard of this, well; you have now.  :your welcome 
 
If you use a corny tank all the time and are doing mobile work on site?  You need to add the Ryobi Fast Inflator to your tool kit.     If you remember to hit the corny tanks at the shop on the compressor before you leave you are usually good for the day, and nobody likes carrying around a compressor in the van.  Well get you the fast inflator and a battery and you can recharge the corny on site without the compressor.  It works rather well actually and will get you out of a bind if you need to pressurize your tank. 
 
 

That is an awesome story.  Most tinters think the hotter the better when it comes to heat guns.  IMHO that is not true.  Yes, the gun needs to be hot but more important is the CFM that the heat gun produces.  The "roofing" 220 volt heat guns doesn't  get any hotter than a $20 wagner heat gun but they blow A LOT more air.  I have seen a guy shrink a Camry back glass template in about 35 seconds with a roofing 220 volt heat gun.  
 
This is a great heat gun for the money.  13 CFM
 
https://www.amazon.com/Steinel-Multi-Purpose-Temperature-Adjustable-Industry/dp/B06XDJVNWC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852449&sr=8-2&keywords=HL+1620+S
 
This is also a good heat gun.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Steinel-803-UltraHeat-Temperature-Lightweight/dp/B01MDUFTT0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852587&sr=8-4&keywords=steinel+heat+gun
 
 

I place a 12” front strip piece across the top of the windshield (where the glass meets the roof) and cut the curve along the top edge of the glass. Mark dead center and then move the trimmed piece down to my alignment marks and finish it out normally.  Usually have to hand cut the last couple of inches to finish out the curve part of the pattern.  
 
This will give you the reverse curve that matches the shape of the windshield. 

Old school Makitas were the best, new ones are the worst. I found that the Matcos heat gun come close to the old Makitas. You’ll get 1 1/2 years out of it, and it gets really hot 

I'm fully capable of installing with the panels on and there are some vehicles out there that I choose to do so on...very few though...very few
I feel that as an installer you should be comfortable and familiar with as many techniques as possible, what's most effective for one person or vehicle may not be for another. I pull the seal on probably 95-98% of the vehicles I do, some require panel removal while others just pull back. For me it's quicker and cleaner to do so and less risk to the panel itself than with gasket wizards/shields. I'm merely putting the information out there for those who want to approach it this way. I come from a body shop background so pulling panels is nothing new to me and I don't hesitate to do so. I can in turn pass on the pertinent information to make it easier for others who wish to do so but might otherwise be intimidated on a new model like this. 

Nope hooks over deep like the new Traverse does. The front comes off fairly easily but when you get to the handle area it's too stiff to flex enough to clear. I feel like you could roll it off but you'd never get it back on. 

They hook over but I feel it's the hooks over quite far. Would be a pain to hook it back over. I tried then gave up. 

I think it'll happen with most films under the right lighting. I could be wrong but I've seen it several times when the light hits it just right, especially florescent. 

Llumars PLatinum Plus was real popular down here, back then anyway. ( high school age kids in the 90’s) 
@redneckj
then Madico came out with theirs called Cool Chrome, ended up being much easier to use than PP, but never caught on as much! It just wasn’t as mirrored as the PP.

yes it did.  Well aware of that, just thought it might have been some left over OLD stock.   When the "new bug" came out in 1998, the first one that I tinted I had to use Platinum plus 18 on the car.  Fun stuff 

All of this only gets WORSE when they start wanting to match the color of the rear factory glass.   Outside in is one thing, but inside out always makes them complain.  (Toyota yellow glass on the front doors is my biggest headache in this department  ) 
juss sayin  

What exactly are you driving? Only reason I ask most factory windows are 20ish with some being 30. BMW I think has some that light. 
 
He's right though that math is not right. I've proven it wrong several times with a meter, and the lighter you go the worse it gets.

Haven't yet but not ruling it out. Helps with Land Rover front doors for sure though.

Just got a bottle in today, can’t wait to try it!
@no ma'am
have you used it on a back glass? It sounds ridiculous but I’ve been having trouble with the 911 back glasses! Rolling, peanuts, etc....
Then, the other day, I picked one up from make ready at our dealer and noticed these guys are spraying cilajet all over the interior and not covering anything!

Used this on a Range Rover and ...,,, changed my life. No shit, squeaky monkey is No Ma'am approved. Little extra clean up, think of it like a rubbing compound, worked for me. 

Most Tesla customers are more worried about the film and quality of install over the price, at least the ones I’ve done work for.

You gonna pay on the next one.  

#1 By: @TNTLady
1985 Chevy with CTX 35 sides and rear and Air 80 on the windshield.

2019 Lamborghini Uris
50% ceramic all the way

2019 Lamborghini Uris
50% ceramic all the way

I haven't shrunk a door sideways in a fucking long ass time but I never needed to do it dry. Save that for bugs and vettes. If you're getting fingers on the bottom half peeling I'm assuming, use a bottle with less slip on the bottom like I do when I cant bottom load. I'll use film on to set my top, roll it up spray my sides down and across the middle starting my flush down (first few inches of film that I'm about to work) I'll then spray my sides lightly and flush what's left of the window straight down with dirt off, which tacs up pretty fast. The benefits to this method are two fold in that I need little to no heat and any fingers are minor. I use dirt off on the regular, quick tac and you can touch up/chisel without as much if any heat. if you use too much dirt off on your bottom it won't slip at all though so think about where you really need it before you try sticking a whole window with it.  works on fords with lulu.

I cant beleive i got this for $35 a month i had no idea it was even an option. Filtered, coffee, hot, and cold water!

You can call me whatever you want when you're handing me 100 dollar bills