PRatx

or option2 , 40in plotter ( u can cut 80-95% of the full car with it) , and bulk the hoods and larger panels....

the hood may be ceramic coated .....
you stretch the film too much?
straight alchool  90%, bonding promoter  , also solvent adhesive removal ( keep it away from plastic and headlights)
multiple wipe down the edges is the key , also steam may help with wrapping the edges

better hurry , xpel rise the prices in nov 4% , and suntek increase 10% in the last 2years , legend had 20% off in sept .....
i have some solid 80x 36 in roll gloss , but i am 3h away

when u apply ppf on top of decals , stripe etc , u will always have that air gap pocket , now after install if you run your finger on that line before you wrap the edge / so the air has a release /  you may have chance to reduce that air space , but you will still have some airgap because is not level / the decal is higher then the paint level..... make sense?
 
 

when u apply ppf on top of decals , stripe etc , u will always have that air gap pocket , now after install if you run your finger on that line before you wrap the edge / so the air has a release /  you may have chance to reduce that air space , but you will still have some airgap because is not level / the decal is higher then the paint level..... make sense?
 
 

i am just guessing: glue issue  or the headlight may have factory coating ....

So I sometimes will need a simple rectangle with rounded corners for the door steps, where your shoes could scuff the area where you step into the vehicle.  I measure it and then design it quickly with inkscape, or the GreatCut program that comes with the GCC plotters.  I like this to be a pattern so that it matches from the drivers side to the passenger side and it's simple.
 
Or, I make a pattern for the B pillars on cars/suv vehicle, where your hand grabs the back of the drivers door when you swing it closed.  Don't see this included in a lot of patterns out there.
 
I never use full bumper patterns, but I do use patterns for the trim pieces if they are available.  But I use the patterns for headlights a lot, because it's hard to improve on such a small, simple piece.
 
So...  wondering if anyone out there has an idea of how we, the installers can upload these quick type of patterns into an online database that would be searchable, and FREE to other installers just to help out, supported by the installers for the installers.  Maybe if we have a 'how to make patterns' section of the database/forum, then more and more installers get in on the program to build it on up.
 
The reason I think this would be great for a larger group is that I might (And did) make a pattern for the B pillars, and the little triangle piece in front of the drivers/passengers window on a 2020 Audi RS3 because my customer wanted those done, along with the whole rest of the car.  But I may never use those patterns again, so it seems a shame to have put that time into it and not use it again.
 
Ideas from those who have internets knowledges?

just a heads up , the new porsche headlights are removable.
the car has a switch where you can lift the front about 2more inches for access.
the inner liner needs to be removed (11 screws- 4 at the bottom , 7 in the wheel area ) , or dropped to have access for the 2 bolts that holds the headlight. no bumper removal needed.
after all the bolts area removed , you will need help when pulling the headlight, one person push from inside and second holds it in the front. also masking tape should be used around the headlight before removal.
the inside  front bottom of the headlight has a pin that slides into a small track. (in pic marked with red)
 
 

Yes I have and yes it works with the 992.  I've done dozens already and it is a bit tricky on the outboard side because the headlight isn't as tight against the metal there.  Only had a pic of the old one so I posted that since it was the same hard card I use.  I just start near the bottom and "saw" my way around till its all tucked.

just a heads up , the new porsche headlights are removable.
the car has a switch where you can lift the front about 2more inches for access.
the inner liner needs to be removed (11 screws- 4 at the bottom , 7 in the wheel area ) , or dropped to have access for the 2 bolts that holds the headlight. no bumper removal needed.
after all the bolts area removed , you will need help when pulling the headlight, one person push from inside and second holds it in the front. also masking tape should be used around the headlight before removal.
the inside  front bottom of the headlight has a pin that slides into a small track. (in pic marked with red)
 
 

You'll NEVER find a software that wraps all the edges of the entire car.  If you have any talent you should be bulk rolling at that point. 

why you don`t talk about xpel loyalty to their dealers....
because is NONE!
i been 3 years exclusive dap and xpel ppf , than you guys decide to wipe me down from your dealer list because some greed decisions , to force me to buy a minimum , now after 5 years of dap fees and credit payed for cuts , new rules, keep your rules Jeff , is America and is an competitive market!
i will always have options , but the way you treat your dealers/ customers just turn people off to deal with you guys..... take that to your boss!
yes, Suntek has better customer service and a good line of products , tell them that too
 
 
 
 

She is done boys 

All of those photos are staged. Look at the lab coats, you can still see the creases from them being folded up.
 
Just more XPEL BS.

few things that can be try.... leave it in the sun, light pass with heat gun , boiling water,  light polish
if none of this works than replace.
it may be the top coat hazed from when the film is rolled or if has been "bend" - handle improperly when the hood was installed

few things that can be try.... leave it in the sun, light pass with heat gun , boiling water,  light polish
if none of this works than replace.
it may be the top coat hazed from when the film is rolled or if has been "bend" - handle improperly when the hood was installed

xpel don`t value your loyalty , end of story
 
i had an slow time with rain years ago and you guys erase me from your locator because i didn`t buy the "quota"
 
Surprisingly your company spends so much in marketing and to get new clients and so little to keep the old clients, that were loyal once....

each to his own, if you are not comfortable to remove a badge than don`t , i do not refer to you , but in general.
 
each case with badges is different , you can strip the whole car if your time is payed and you have the knowledge to do it.
with decals , if are provided the replacement than why not put a new one , if not just leave the car in original state , some owners prefer to have all original, plus you have to take in account the surprise element once you take something apart.
 
i pre-cut bumpers and no need to cut the sensors, but i did cut out a few. i bulk hoods , so mostly i remove badges where possible. youtube university teach you all ,  i do not remove any decals , i do wrap on top of it , i do multiple passes with the squeegee , on some occasions   i may use alcohol or steam to force the bond tighter to the edge of the decals.
do your best , chase perfection if you have time , but keep in mind it will always be someone who will object , or not like your work.
 
 
 
 
 
 

except the mid scoop , similar hood , and no fingers , or minimum.
stretch the material and  tack the film before you squeegee .
if you work a partial kit  , than bulk it , so you are not limited to options....
 
7 is a light pull and squeegee that area.
 

Most panels were pre-cut, the hood and rear fenders bulked. 

17carrera 4s in gt silver , stealth film
 

Most panels were pre-cut, the hood and rear fenders bulked. 

Most panels were pre-cut, the hood and rear fenders bulked. 

17carrera 4s in gt silver , stealth film