Whyme

It seems time there’s quite a bit of untested tint hitting the market with people saying this is the tint to buy . Like Lexen . Hasn’t been around long enough to know how it will last . I’ve seen how long SOLARGARD tint lasts over 10 years in the heat . But if your in a cold climate seems like most of it lasts .

Before I start let me say I don’t want to hear anything about the brand global I know you guys are waiting to jump on this ! NO ! best recommendation for 35% tint in a non high end film . I normally use SOLARGARD supreme series and xenith ceramic for my high end . But I need a 35 % in a lower end tint for regular customers . And I don’t like SOLARGARD galaxie it looks purple from the inside . And charcoal is crap . So what brand would you recommend ? besides global !

I would bet money this vehicle your talking about is a dodge charger . They get peanuts more than any other vehicle . Lumps in the defroster lines .

I agree it needs to dry out . Some heat will help. Did you use a microfiber rope at the bottom of the windshield when you installled . You should be doing that . Huge lifesaver . Especially for vehicles like the early Tesla model 3’s that had no protection for water under the windshield on the inside .

I use Solargard , I use supreme and I use xenith Ir . The new xenith is much improved over the ceramic films that were made before it . Vortex and ultra performance don’t shape much at all . I could spend all day trying to shape those films . Especially ultra performance . So glad they aren’t trying to push that anymore . I only wish they would make a xenith film darker than 15% .

Well if they ask you do the windshield it’s really difficult . And you need an extra large roll size like 48 inches . And the if they want the windows above the wing doors done as well that should be factored into price . Not all that much fun.

Tinted the windows on a ram trx today . Supposedly the only 1 currently In San Diego . 700 horse power of fun. I used Solargard xenith ceramic film . 15% all around

This is a tough one . But all glass is tempered . Meaning they are not supposed to scratch easily . I can’t imagine how a Tinter could possibly have made all those scratches . Are there any micro scratches in the middle of the glass or the top of the glass? And the damage to the side of the glass is weird ! How would someone damage that . I mean I just run my razor across the sides as smooth as silk . No pressure , just smooth . All glass should be well tempered , but sometimes a piece of glass is barely tempered at all and the glass can be scratched easily . This is mostly the case on American made cars , and exotics . I’m not taking the Tinter side . If he did do that he must be a completely new Tinter

That’s not good , I just had to turn someone down with a Lexus nx for the same reason . Just the 2 front windows

No there is not ! But if your worried about it roll the window down and look for the edge of where the clear uv coating would be

I’ve had this happen to me many times , even for the 2 front windows where the customer has it all off and claims it started peeling so I would redo it for free , when the customer obviously got a fix it ticket

I tinted one of these last week . No felt needed . And I had no issues . The felt problem was more for older Mercedes . IMO . This is not a car to worry about .

As soon as any one asks about tint brands all the global guys chime in ! Like free advertising ! Top brands imo are Llumar , Huper optic , Solargard . 3m crystalline !

Also is it a fat scratch or a fine razor blade scratch? Also tinters cut the outline Around the outside of the window , so if the scratch was in the middle of the glass the tinter would have absolutely no reason to use a razor on the middle of the glass . Only around the edges of the glass . So I would say if it’s in the middle of the back window it’s not the tinter , but if it’s a side window it’s a different story .

The cars with the bumpiest defroster lines get peanuts , like the Dodge Charger is really bad , old Lexus models get them bad, etc . It wastes a lot time getting them to stay down . I especially dislike when it’s the bottom defroster lines . Some cars are just made like crap .

This is a bad idea . Tint is designed to stick to glass not to tint . Generally I tell other people who ask me that there is no warranty for tint sticking to tint

I had the same thing happen on a Mercedes c300 it was like a metal lump on the defroster line and it would get so hot it melted the tint in that spot . Dealer said it was the tint . Until I took it off . And then the dealer paid to replace it on their brand new Mercedes. And of course I retinted it for free . Not their fault

I just love the conversation . “ THat wasn’t on my car Before “ . Me “ YEs it was “ . I had One customer say the water spotting on the outside of the glass wasn’t there before . I was like you clearly park right next to sprinklers . 🤢

Why wouldn’t you use the blue paper towels called shop towels at Home Depot or Lowe’s ? They work much better at absorbing water than the white ones ! I wouldn’t know if there was an issue here because I always buy blue !

Those will not go away because they are air bubbles . Water bubbles evaporate . But air bubbles appear white in color . And stay forever until you squeegee them out well . This is why tinters go over the window several times .

Detailers spray polyethylene on the doors to make them shiny at car washes and dealerships . So when it gets wet it looks like that . But a good cleaner will take the polyeurothane off . If you want it back on just buy armor all or something like it .

I have a few different ones I’m using ! I start with a soft squeegee then follow with a hard squeegee with a metal handle ! I can’t remember the name ! I heard someone say one time they used a pin hole to drain the water ! Sounds like a bad idea ! But I might try it in a spot see how it works !

That’s a good idea ! I’ll give it a shot ! As it is the customer wants windows replaced , I tried to explain that won’t fix anything !

Customer is complaining! He Just built a brand new salon and they want the bubbles gone before opening day ! 🙄

I have been tinting for 20 years and I know at the start of winter the rcommercial and residential is going to take awhile to dry ! I use rubbing alcohol and the large commercial squeegees ! Does anyone have a trick to make the bubbles dry quicker