Jump to content

csixer66

Member
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

csixer66's Achievements

  1. I tinted a Accord yesterday and the install went prettu damn good for my first time and passable for a decent job. The trouble I had was on install. I use the same slip I use on the side windows. My film will start sliding down after intial squeegee if that tells you how much slip ratio I use. Shrinking went well and I reverwe rolled it. But on install after unrolling on the inside. You had to unroll to tuck on down at the bottom. That film jammed in place. I had to pull and yank of course adding debris and creases to the mix. I sprayed more slip and still did not help. What did I do wrong. Why couldnt I slide it at all. Im not too hard on myself as Ive been doing trucks and front roll ups for the last year. This was my very first back window install. Evem with the problems. I ended up with just a few creases at the bottom area that I chizled almost all the way out. Accords are a fairly easy back window to do as far as curve and shrinking is involved. Just curious why this happened.
  2. What you say def makes sense. I just did a full Acura TX tint job. Didnt center film and my top edge lined up much better. Now. Im seeing when I enter with my knife. That itial spot is jagged. I can fix it when I trim. But is there a way to avoid that jagged half inch section where my knife enters? Thank you everone for your input. Qll your suggestions have helped me get better. Self taught makes the learning curve massive
  3. Okay. That top edge after day one os def grounds for redo. The one major spot could have been chizled out on the day of install. The other tiny spots. Thats getting picky. Install without one or 2 spots is almost impossible. But all of these could have taken care of before you ever saw them if they cared.
  4. It works great for chizling debris and laying down odds and ends. Ive used to shrink side windows but thats the extent. You will never shrink a back window. Way too weak. But for the listed above. It works great. Much easier too. Specially when your mobile
  5. I do have a question. On windows where the back is straight back into the seals I wont center the film. But on windows with a radius at the back top like Toyota Tundra or older GM trucks. If you dont shift back to center I find it overhands that back radius. This self tought tinting thing is frustrating lol.
  6. Ive seen many of tinters not shift back before top cut. Always in my head thought that would throw it off worse. Sounds like it wont. Wonder why this is?
  7. I follow these same steps in a way. I cut front, shift, cut the back, center the film, shift down, then make the top cut. I think I might be changing my angle of my knife. I dont know. When I practice. Hard to tell how it will line up on install. Im a perfectionist and pretty hard on myself. Ive redone windows for customers in their disbelief as they saw no flaws but I did. Again. Ive resorted to filing edges just to make the install right when the top edge just isnt uniform. Cant seem to overcome this.
  8. I imagine I might be changing my angle but I try to focus on not doing that. Im left handed. So drivers side front to back cuts are hard to do with right hand. If I got back t9 front my arms hit the mirror.
  9. I have the film centered for the most part before I make the top cut from the outside. Its when I install that it doesn't want to line up even. Is there qny detailed videos out there that targets just the top cut? I have not found it.
  10. Im.sorry to bug you guys. Im struggling here with my top cut. I practice and practice and practice. Then when Im doing a car I choke. Cut is uniform. Just doesnt line uo straight across the window. It is either too close up front or in the back or on the leading edge. I have been shaving with a file to make it perfect for paying customers. I would love to get a micro edge everytime. I find with shaving I get trash more than I dont. Its so discouraging and not sure how to fix it. I watch vidoes and have Stans Series. Still doesnt get in depth on top cutting. Guess I could learn to shave but done want to go through a blade for every car. Any help or advice would be great. Thank you
  11. I used CB for a long time. I switched to Suntek to try another film. Went right back to Classic Black and love everything about it. I do go Global for Ceramic but classic Black will be my only standard end film I will ever use. Tried Lumar, Suntek and A few others. CB is my go too out of all of them
  12. Thank you for the vote of confidence. I read and read and read and watch videos over and over again. I am getting better. I have switched to a peel board and did do a lincoln suv absolutly flawless. First time for that and best job I ever did. Did have to chizel out a few specs but i was proud of that one. Ive learned to clean less. That has helped with debris as I think I kept flushing it out more than cleaning just were the film contacts. I practice with a roll of metalized film I have and am getting faster. I still struggle on some cars still. But I still feel some in person instruction would help me greatly. Answer some of my questions. Like: How to keep film from creasing and bunching up on front edge when the mirror is super tight to the edge. Why I get jagged cuts in a certain scenario. Why even with a ton of slip in my solition does the film want to stick and not move. Things like this I cant learn from a video. Do you guys think I wouod benefit from Stans video set?
  13. Just fought this on Jeep GC. My film jept shifting everytime I rolled the window down to cut top edge. I had to roll the window down so far to get top it was creasing it on the front by rhe mirror. 3rd attempt and 3 waisted sections of film. Told them they need removed
  14. No problem at all. I appreciate that.
×
×
  • Create New...