Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Age
  • Experience
  • Location
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Ryan1's Achievements

  1. Thanks, I have not learned that lesson yet, but i am sure it's coming.
  2. do you do that on the framed windows as well? which is what I am going to do this week on our car and truck. going to to the shaved edge on them
  3. I am in the exact same boat. Wanting to tint my own cars and I am a DIY person. I spent hours and hours on youtube looking at how others do it, and tools they use. Window tinting is a very small toolset. I went ahead and just purchased all the tools and tint I needed to do my own cars. then the extra will be used for friends and family cars, either free or cover the cost of materials to get my money back. I did the following - purchased tools from about 3 different places. a few cheap items on amazon, rest at SolControl, NDGraphics and 44tools ( which i wont order from again... ) I am in canada, so going across boarder is a pain with taxes and duty. - I already had a heat gun. - i got : P2 sprayer, various squeegees and cards, blades, knife. - i ordered one roll of 5% Suntek, split roll cut in 24" and 36" . Then, just went to town on my daughters car. first window ( the small 1/4 glass ), took me about 8 tries. try - check, peal and re-do. not much to it. Rear window was the hardest... mostly because of contamination. took me 3 tries. it's not 100%. there are a couple flaws with some debris. but, for her car, she is very happy with it.... except I only see the flaws when I look at it. To start off, with the tools and 1 full roll of tint cost me about $550 . i have since gotten a second roll of 35%. Now, it's just a matter of going a few cars for $50 - $75 to recover some cost.
  4. I would use Glad Press N Seal on the top edge. No bulk of a towel. and since it is not the full height of the door panel, on the bottom half, just add in some plastic drop sheet or garbage bag. The press n Seal will stick to all surfaces and the garbage bag, then all the water will run off the door.
  5. Hi all, I did try a few searches and the results were so far off the topic, didn't really see any related topics. I am new here, and very new to tinting. I have done only 2 cars so far... practicing before I do my own new truck this weekend. I do plan to get more local customers, friends, etc. as I did get a few rolls and need to recover my costs. On the roll up/down windows. I have done one with a frame and one car was a frameless window. On the frameless one, i went with a file / shaved edge instead of a 1/8" gap. I REALLY like the look and it turned out great ( first time too ). What my question is on durability of the edge if you go with a shaved edge instead of a 1/8" gap on the top edge of a framed window. I prefer the look , so was going to do this on my next test car. ( sister in law ). AND, i will probably do my truck this way too, then i can see personally how it holds up. On my first car ( daughters car ), i went with a small gap on the back doors, but i didn't heat it to ensure it's cured before I finished the window and it pealed a bit. I am going to re-do it . I'll take some close up pictures too.
  6. My first post here and this is my second time tinting .
  • Create New...