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  1. Lets suppose you are in the market for a used car and the dealership has two that are just about identical as far as miles and options. One was protected with PPF and the other wasn't. Would you be willing to pay more for the car that looked brand new as far as the paint condition over the one that had dozens of rock chips and scratches? If so, there's a ROI. Not only that, but most people would assume that if the original owner was willing to pay big money up front for PPF, they probably took better care of the vehicle, got their oil changed and did regular maintenance as scheduled vs the owner that let their car get beat up.
  2. Shoot me your email address

    1. alberts316




    2. Speed


      sent you a short video, let me know if you get it.


  3. Great video. I try only using probond inside a wrapped tow hook or under hoods. I've found using it on areas that can be seen can look like dried up elmer's glue, kinda ghosty. Recently I stumbled apon a wax/polish that helps the film bite just about as much as Probond, but not so hard you can't lift the film without hurting the adhesive. It's a witches brew that the detail manager makes at one of my dealership accounts, and he has been tweeking it since I realized how well it works. Right now we have two versions we are developing with different levels of bite. One is a spray that works great on the surface where you need an extra hand. We've all been there where you need both hands to hold down the film and need one more hand to squeege it down. Perfect example would be a 911 fender when you start at the a pillar and have to stretch it to the headlight. It nearly always want to pull back. I spray a little right at the top of the fender above the light and it helps the film stick first time 90% of the time. Same thing on Camaro or Challenger bumpers below and around the headlight areas, film sticks first time so you don't get that "overworked" look at the edges. The second is applied as a paste wax and it has enough bite that you can apply it under the hood where I normally would use probond, and it sticks at about 90% as good. Again, it doesn't harm the adhesive if you have to lift the film and reapply it. Both products make the surface of the paint as smooth and as slick as glass and works so well, you can get film to stick on surfaces that have been ceramic coated with no other prep but spray and wipe. I know because we had a Benz in that we couldn't get film to sick at all, even dry. That's when we discovered how well it worked. I hope to have more made up soon and would like to get some feedback form other installers. This has become an expensive proposition once trademarks and patents are factored in so please don't ask about pricing as it won't be cheap compared to other spray on waxes or instant detailers. I have been using it literally on every install over the last few months getting it dailed in and would hate to not have this at my disposal.
  4. No problems here, I've sent back maybe 2 rolls since they first came out and never had any issue with customer service.
  5. Yes I have and yes it works with the 992. I've done dozens already and it is a bit tricky on the outboard side because the headlight isn't as tight against the metal there. Only had a pic of the old one so I posted that since it was the same hard card I use. I just start near the bottom and "saw" my way around till its all tucked.
  6. I just tuck the film behind them using a flat blue card
  7. Anyone that leaves any film on for ten years is asking for trouble IMO. I recommend replacing it after about five, after that amount of time is get progressively more difficult to remove without having to scrap it off. Why manufacturers want to warranty their film beyond five years is a mystery to me Why should this product have a longer warranty than the car its applied to???? Because everyone else does? I only offer a two year warranty and after twenty years, it has never cost me a deal.
  8. Speed


  9. Both Xpel and Suntek software have features that will let you wrap any edge you want, you have to do it manually in the settings but it is possible.
  10. Good luck getting dealerships to spend high dollar on something they don't believe in. Best way to get your foot in their door is with a "wear and tear" package of door cups/edges and luggage protection for around $100. See if they will let you do one for the showroom floor on consignment so it virtually costs the dealership nothing at that point. One big key is to get a meeting with F/I or general sales mgr. Insist on there being at least two managers at the meeting. This is important because you will be pitting them against each other in your "closing". State your points on why its a great money maker for them. I know of dealerships that easily clear $20,000 in a slow month so its a proven fact. Carefully craft any questions you ask them so you get a "YES" for an answer. You want them to get in the habit of saying yes. Now, tell them their dealership could certainly do $10,000 a month, look both of them in the eyes and say "Which one of you doesn't want to show your boss you made them an extra $120,000 this year?", then remain silent because the next person that speaks loses. They can't say no to that or they will look like a weakling in the eyes of the other manager.
  11. Best tip is to get a Graphtec. I had a Jaguar 72 inch for a while. The problem is the rollers that hold the film were too flimsy and would bow out with the weight of the roll of film. Since the roll had to be orientated to the right, the rollers bowed in the middle and that caused the film to feed crooked. It would only cut 60 decent since that one sat more in the middle and the bow was less. I'd try cutting off just a little more than you need and just feeding that cut part though the machine. That way you aren't resting the weight of the entire roll on the rollers.
  12. Matte paint hasn't been around very long so I bet there are not many 10 year old matte cars out there with film on them. Most removals I have done that are less then 2 years old don't leave much adhesive behind but I have seen far too many older installs that did, sometimes it was almost like the glue had "fossilized" into the clear coat that took hours to clean up. Last year I had a customer considering buying some special edition Lexus with matte paint and he called me about putting film on it. I explained my reasons why I felt like it wasn't a good idea. I contacted his sales person at Lexus and he assured me their paint was "robust enough" and there wouldn't be any issues filming it. When I asked him if I could come by their showroom and spray some adhesive remover on the car and let it sit for ten minutes, I was told absolutely no. I'm not trying to bash anyone's opinion, just a heads up. A quick search pulled this https://www.autoevolution.com/news/how-to-take-proper-care-of-your-car-s-matte-paint-finish-114393.html The only thing that works on any paint for cleaning purposes is water. Matte finishes will require specific solutions to clean, and almost anything else can damage it. Anything from wax, cleaning solvents, and whatever solution devised to bring shine to regular paint will lead to potential damage when a matte paint is involved.
  13. If you have never faced this issue, how could you know it depends of what ppf you use? I've been there, done that, and won't do it again.
  14. Our weather is a bit different down here in Hotlanta. We had 97 days in a row this summer over 90 degrees. After nearly twenty years doing PPF, I've seen what a nightmare removals can be on ordinary paint, hours and hours of scraping and adhesive remover soaking the glue. I'll never have to worry about doing that to a matte surface.