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  1. Good luck getting dealerships to spend high dollar on something they don't believe in. Best way to get your foot in their door is with a "wear and tear" package of door cups/edges and luggage protection for around $100. See if they will let you do one for the showroom floor on consignment so it virtually costs the dealership nothing at that point. One big key is to get a meeting with F/I or general sales mgr. Insist on there being at least two managers at the meeting. This is important because you will be pitting them against each other in your "closing". State your points on why its a great money maker for them. I know of dealerships that easily clear $20,000 in a slow month so its a proven fact. Carefully craft any questions you ask them so you get a "YES" for an answer. You want them to get in the habit of saying yes. Now, tell them their dealership could certainly do $10,000 a month, look both of them in the eyes and say "Which one of you doesn't want to show your boss you made them an extra $120,000 this year?", then remain silent because the next person that speaks loses. They can't say no to that or they will look like a weakling in the eyes of the other manager.
  2. Best tip is to get a Graphtec. I had a Jaguar 72 inch for a while. The problem is the rollers that hold the film were too flimsy and would bow out with the weight of the roll of film. Since the roll had to be orientated to the right, the rollers bowed in the middle and that caused the film to feed crooked. It would only cut 60 decent since that one sat more in the middle and the bow was less. I'd try cutting off just a little more than you need and just feeding that cut part though the machine. That way you aren't resting the weight of the entire roll on the rollers.
  3. Matte paint hasn't been around very long so I bet there are not many 10 year old matte cars out there with film on them. Most removals I have done that are less then 2 years old don't leave much adhesive behind but I have seen far too many older installs that did, sometimes it was almost like the glue had "fossilized" into the clear coat that took hours to clean up. Last year I had a customer considering buying some special edition Lexus with matte paint and he called me about putting film on it. I explained my reasons why I felt like it wasn't a good idea. I contacted his sales person at Lexus and he assured me their paint was "robust enough" and there wouldn't be any issues filming it. When I asked him if I could come by their showroom and spray some adhesive remover on the car and let it sit for ten minutes, I was told absolutely no. I'm not trying to bash anyone's opinion, just a heads up. A quick search pulled this https://www.autoevolution.com/news/how-to-take-proper-care-of-your-car-s-matte-paint-finish-114393.html The only thing that works on any paint for cleaning purposes is water. Matte finishes will require specific solutions to clean, and almost anything else can damage it. Anything from wax, cleaning solvents, and whatever solution devised to bring shine to regular paint will lead to potential damage when a matte paint is involved.
  4. If you have never faced this issue, how could you know it depends of what ppf you use? I've been there, done that, and won't do it again.
  5. Our weather is a bit different down here in Hotlanta. We had 97 days in a row this summer over 90 degrees. After nearly twenty years doing PPF, I've seen what a nightmare removals can be on ordinary paint, hours and hours of scraping and adhesive remover soaking the glue. I'll never have to worry about doing that to a matte surface.
  6. I would never put film on a matte paint job, removals will be an issue since you can't use adhesive remover on those finishes.
  7. I would use a kit. There's a lot of stretch at the top but not so much across the bottom so that piece is separate with precuts. Plus the bottom is likely to get scraped a couple times a year so you just keep replacing that small bottom part instead of the whole thing all over again
  8. With other choices out there that have a good track record, why would you go with something that doesn't? It may look good now but what if six months from now it goes bad? You'll have six months worth of come-backs to deal with. I've been there and it almost put me out of business. I understand testing other products on your own vehicle as I have several on my personal ride, but there's only one brand I use for my customers.
  9. Just have them trim the lifted edge, then you won't have to worry about the paint coming off. Film should never lift the paint of a properly repainted vehicle anyways.
  10. Film damage due to impacts from rocks, tire treads, whatever, is considered normal wear and tear and not covered by any manufacturer warranty. When customers come to me with these issues I tell them its a good thing they had film, just think what that impact would have done to unprotected paint. This customer hit a concrete wall in a parking deck. Without the film, that could have been a $3000 hit. Sometimes I will offer to "pro-rate" at a reduced cost the replacement depending on how old the install is, but all films will become damaged and/or aged to the point it needs replaced about every five years.
  11. Some installers will take off the bumper but I normally don't take anything apart because its too risky and not really a good idea. First, you could damage the clips or not get it back on secure, plus when the film gets damaged (and it will for sure), you have to take it apart again to replace the piece. Most of the time there's not a finished area on the backside for the wrapped part of the film's adhesive to bite on. Its like putting a piece of tape on a concrete block, it will stick but it won't stay. Personally, I think a small gap is better if there is no easy way to wrap the edge. its easier to keep clean.
  12. That has been my concern and have turned many jobs down for that very reason. Glad I'm not facing any matte removals in the future