tintpimp1

As well as that avalanche back glass that you can remove from the vehicle and tint it on a table. If you have light there is nothing wrong with applying puffy paint or wise use of a opaque pen and make it look damn near perfect

I agree on the ford. I took the discussion a bit off topic but thought I would share an instance where I've found black caulk to be useful.

Using a black marker, caulk, glass primer, tape, ect should never be used as a crutch to fill gaps. If you do that just comes down to being lazy.

There are a few exceptions to this though IMO. But overall I agree, it's unnecessary.

I would typically ise puffy paint or "trim" that gasket at a 45, I mentioned the caulk because the customer is not an installer, anyone can use the black window sealant. It is in fact a black gasket like compound that is labeled window sealer. So for a customer he could easily go around the inside of the glass himself versus going from shop to shop til he's broke trying to find a n instaler competent enough to do the back glass correctly. I'm in no way saying a fix for a profesional installer. Just a way for this particular customer to make his back glass look a lot better. If he is careful and takes his time he definitely can make it appear as a factory gasket.

Pan pizzas are great, all that grease and brown crusty cheese on the edges.. Damn, and that's just the ones I've eat from the big chains, so I couldn't imagine what a real authentic pan would be like..

OK, so it's tinted, the passenger window and the two vent windows is pretty much textbook flawless, at least that's the opinion of a non pro tint installer, but it really does look great. The drivers side glass has 1/4inch light gap towards the front, it must of slipped and spun around on him and neither of us noticed it at the shop, it was 120 degrees and I have no clue how he survives in that closed garage because it wasn't cool in lobby but at least u could breathe. I didn't call back but I'm gonna stop by one day and let him fix it because there's a little trash under it as well. The back glass, well, I guess I'm just not gonna be able to be satisfied with how it has to look because I don't think it's humanly possible to get it exactly light free around that rubber, I don't know what else to do so I'm gonna be happy. Now I'm not complaining, you cannot see a light gap from the outside unless u really study it and the sun is coming through the windshield, but from the inside there's a few spots and he touched it up with a black sharpie marker, not really the technique I had hoped I'd have to resort to being OK with, but how many times can I be unhappy without looking like a complete dick? I will let the bubbles lay down and make sure everything is flat and then stop by one day and let him check out the door where I'm confident he will immediately agree should be replaced. This is without a doubt a hard skill to master, if he'd of spent two hours on one back window and didn't draw the line somewhere then the profit would of been nothing, so it is what it is and I am not gonna nit pick and worry over it anymore. Nothings perfect and it does make the truck look great like I'd hoped, but the radiant heat through the front window is pretty bad, so next time I'll get him to do the 80% on the front and fix side glass.

You could always buy some black caulk, cut the tip really thin. Run it along the inside gasket where the light is. Kinda like you would do on a bathtub. Take your time and you can make it look like a factory rubber gasket. I use something else on those called puffy paint. But black window sealant works amazing.

Those rock. I'll take two. Can I get on in blue and one red?

You know they have a clear teflon tape to wrap the edge of your hard cards now. Pretty cool stuff

Well from the manufacturing lips. Suntek standard PRO is the exact film as llumar atc. Stick with Eastman and you won't go wrong